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Greetings fellas- I’m trying to fix the auto lock issue w my passenger side front door in my 86 series III. I had the panel off and everything looked okay-I gave it a good wd 40 spray down. It unlocks automatically w no issue but doesn’t lock automatically. All the other doors are fine. What should my next move be? Or where to look/test? Thanks in advance
I have the key operating system. Unlocks all the doors when I unlock the car. But when I try to lock only to as we get door doesn’t lock. I think it used to lock unlock from the trunk lock as well but I think it stopped doing that as well. I’ll double check that this am
When you turn the key in the driver's door (or operate the driver's door lock paddle) you are operating a controller which, in turn, operates the lock motors. The controller sends power and ground to the motors to lock the doors and then simply reverses polarity to the motors to unlock the doors.
Have a helper operate the system while you observe what the lock motor is doing. You'll easily see if it is trying to operate the linkages in both directions or only one. Sometimes linkages need more cleaning and lubrication, especially down at the door latch itself. If that all looks good use your test light to check for power and ground at the wires to the motor. The motor might be faulty.
Oh...... Sometimes, with age, a bit of adjustment is needed: the motor is adjustable fore-and-aft.
Yours is the "Kiekert" lock system. It doesn't use relays so don't bother looking for any. Earlier cars has the "Lucas" system...which did use relays.
BTW the trunk will lock, but not unlock, with the rest of the system....although there's an easy (and rather common) mod to make it both lock and unlock
And please note that WD40 is NOT a lubricant.
I have brought back to life many of these Series III systems using a true lubricant (RustCheck) which despite its name is the very best lubricant I have found, safe on electric units, will not harm paint. Liberal spraying while manually working the lock system (door panel removed, of course) will generally cure the problem and it works on the Kiekert as well as the earlier system…oh, and at the same time it rustproofs all the metal it hits.
Well, you’ll only know if you try it - But the question is whether it is a real lubricant or simply a releasing fluid (like WD40 and others). Given that it contains silicone it might work well. The manual operation of the rods and levers at the same time is an important part of the resuscitation operation.
I have even brought the Kiekert unit itself back to life (removed from the car) by applying power alternately to operate the push and retract mechanism. Generally, though, the system can be given new life without any dismantling.
Don’t forget to use some grease on the fods where they pass through the plastic clips.
No, I don’t think so. You need something which does have a penetrating function as well as a lubricating function so I think your first choice would be better (I assume that you cannot find RustCheck?).
It's been years since I lasted looked but, as far as I know, Rust Check isn't marketed in the USA.
Years ago, 15 at least, maybe 20, Gregory brought 4 cans to me when he visited the Portland area for an ABFM. I'm down to my last can so finding some in the USA would be a real "plus". Great stuff. Works well and smells lovely
It's been years since I lasted looked but, as far as I know, Rust Check isn't marketed in the USA.
Years ago, 15 at least, maybe 20, Gregory brought 4 cans to me when he visited the Portland area for an ABFM. I'm down to my last can so finding some in the USA would be a real "plus". Great stuff. Works well and smells lovely
Cheers
DD
completely off topic but are you sure that was an ABFM and not a JCNA concours in 2007?
I only ask because we drove down from Edmonton and met the Victoria club in Bellingham before continuing on to Portland as a group… Number 24 did quite well on the concours field because Gregory - ever the gentleman - chose to enter Number 92 as a driver.
Good morning folks. I took the panel off multiple x and blasted everything I could find w some lube. Still getting same result when I lock the doors - all lock except the front passenger side. I hear that it wants to lock and even slightly flinches like it’s getting some power but not enough to lock. I’m gonna hunt the in-line dude wire next . See what’s going on there.