Dormant series II rejuvenation
#1
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
OK, here goes..I have introduced myself on the new members forum, so I figure I would just let one fly on here. The reason I am here is because I have inherited a 1974 Jaguar XJ6
. Red over black with tan seats. Only 63k on the clock and ZERO rust, garage kept. The car has not been on the road since 1996. I has been cranked every once in a while, but not much. After looking it over it seems to be in pretty good shape, it will need every bit of rubber replaced on it as well as a new windshield gasket. Before I get too carried away I want to know if it will run, under some description at any rate. To minimize risk of damage to the car, or surroundings, does anyone have any thoughts or advise for firing this baby up? I am currently trying to figure out the fuel pumps. It seems as though the car was parked because of bad pumps. If anyone has any pics of how the pumps are to be set up, I would love to see them. Also what kind of universal pumps to folks run as a replacement? Anyway, thanks, and more to follow..
![Icon Couchhide](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_couchhide.gif)
#2
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 24,894
Received 10,952 Likes
on
7,196 Posts
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I've never worked on a Ser II but I'll take a stab at some answers. Hopefully others with more Ser II specific experience will chime in.
I'm not aware of anything particularly unique about the pumps. I think the circuit from the switch is simple power and ground with, perhaps, an oil pressure cut out switch. I suspecy any number of unversal fuel pumps could be made to work so long as they are the low-pressure type designed for carbs rather than fuel injection.
After so many years of storage you can almost bet on rusty tanks and/or contaminated/stale fuel. I'd drain the tanks and see how the fuel looks. The carbs will likely need overhaul or, at minimum a few whacks with a rubber mallet to free-up stuck floats and needles.
If the engine turns easily on the starter I'd change the oil, install a pre-filled new oil filter, remove the sparks plugs, and turn the engine on the starter to build oil pressure...then reinstall the plugs and see if she'll fire. Of course you'll want to make sure the cooling system is OK before running the engine very long.
If there's any worry about the cylinder walls and/or rings you can oil the cylinders with a squirt can of light engine oil and turn the engine one turn every few hours for a couple days before trying to actually start the engine.
After the engine is running I wouldn't drie the car before a very good inspection and recommissioning with particular attention to the brakes....which are probably rusted from the inside out and will need overhaul.
Cheers
DD
I'm not aware of anything particularly unique about the pumps. I think the circuit from the switch is simple power and ground with, perhaps, an oil pressure cut out switch. I suspecy any number of unversal fuel pumps could be made to work so long as they are the low-pressure type designed for carbs rather than fuel injection.
After so many years of storage you can almost bet on rusty tanks and/or contaminated/stale fuel. I'd drain the tanks and see how the fuel looks. The carbs will likely need overhaul or, at minimum a few whacks with a rubber mallet to free-up stuck floats and needles.
If the engine turns easily on the starter I'd change the oil, install a pre-filled new oil filter, remove the sparks plugs, and turn the engine on the starter to build oil pressure...then reinstall the plugs and see if she'll fire. Of course you'll want to make sure the cooling system is OK before running the engine very long.
If there's any worry about the cylinder walls and/or rings you can oil the cylinders with a squirt can of light engine oil and turn the engine one turn every few hours for a couple days before trying to actually start the engine.
After the engine is running I wouldn't drie the car before a very good inspection and recommissioning with particular attention to the brakes....which are probably rusted from the inside out and will need overhaul.
Cheers
DD
#3
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Well I tinkered on it a little today. I have the pumps figured out and they seem to be doing what they are supposed to do. Does anyone know if the SU pumps are rebuildable? They appear to be to me, but am not sure about parts and pieces. I pulled the plugs and put a mix of Lucas and Mystery oil down the cylinders, let is soak for a bit and spun it over. It does spin over very well! The inside of the tanks are dry with a minimal amount of scale. I am going to install some inline filters and try and track down a oil filter to do a change before I try to start it...what is a good place to buy parts?
#4
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I would recommend particular attention to the brakes. As a minimum, replace fluid, all flexible hoses, (there are three - two front - one left and one right, and one rear from body pipe to subframe pipe.), and brake pads.
Plus check all pipes for corrosion.
As regards the fuel tanks you will find a 2" round plug underneath each rear quarter-panel. These cover the tank filters and drains. Probably beneficial to take off these plugs, drain the tanks and clean the filters. AFAIK the in tank fuel pumps are no longer available and unrepairable, but I may be wrong - try an internet search as there are still quite a few Series 1 & 2 cars still running around, so somebody may be rebuilding them somewhere, but it might be here in England.
Plus check all pipes for corrosion.
As regards the fuel tanks you will find a 2" round plug underneath each rear quarter-panel. These cover the tank filters and drains. Probably beneficial to take off these plugs, drain the tanks and clean the filters. AFAIK the in tank fuel pumps are no longer available and unrepairable, but I may be wrong - try an internet search as there are still quite a few Series 1 & 2 cars still running around, so somebody may be rebuilding them somewhere, but it might be here in England.
#5
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks, the brakes are on the list once I know that the car will run. The lines for the brakes have been inspected, the pads and rotors need attention and the system needs flushed..at the very least anyway.... As for the tanks, I wasnt aware of the filters, I will look into that. I know that the tanks are dry, but not sure how they got that way or what was done. Thanks for the tips!
#6
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Regarding my last post on fuel pumps for carburettored Jaguars, there are after market pumps, but I think they are fitted externally to the tank, and you have to do your own plumbing. A fuel injection pump is no good, it generates too much pressure.
I suggest you also strip down and clean the carbs and reassemble with a seal kit. Cellulose thinners is marvellous for cleaning petrol varnish and other muck.
I suggest you also strip down and clean the carbs and reassemble with a seal kit. Cellulose thinners is marvellous for cleaning petrol varnish and other muck.
#7
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)