dropping the oil pan
#1
dropping the oil pan
I have to change out the front main seal (taking the timing assembly out to change out s brother hanger bracket) and in the manual it states that I have to drop the pan and I am wondering if it is possibly to drop the pan without completely pulling the engine,
thanks in advance
Yash
thanks in advance
Yash
#2
The following users liked this post:
Yash swamy (11-04-2020)
#3
Back in the day, a LONG way back.
We had a tool to machine off those lips on the sump and the timing cover.
This enabled the oil seal to be replaced like any other oil seal.
Prior to that tool, we would simply loosen the sump bolts down both side, all the way to the rear, and removing 4???, memory, on each side at the front. Prise the sump loose, and let it "hang" while the old seal was dug out and the new installed. MESSY, and resealing that sump was always "hit and miss", as RTV was not around back then.
The sump will not come out with the A) the cradle in the way, B) the engine is in the car. One or the other needs to move.
I have ":heard" of people raising the engine up high, and wiggling the sump out, fine, BUT, that wiggle will screw the new gasket when attempting refit.
I would ask around, someone, maybe many, will remember that cutter tool, and maybe still have it.
We had a tool to machine off those lips on the sump and the timing cover.
This enabled the oil seal to be replaced like any other oil seal.
Prior to that tool, we would simply loosen the sump bolts down both side, all the way to the rear, and removing 4???, memory, on each side at the front. Prise the sump loose, and let it "hang" while the old seal was dug out and the new installed. MESSY, and resealing that sump was always "hit and miss", as RTV was not around back then.
The sump will not come out with the A) the cradle in the way, B) the engine is in the car. One or the other needs to move.
I have ":heard" of people raising the engine up high, and wiggling the sump out, fine, BUT, that wiggle will screw the new gasket when attempting refit.
I would ask around, someone, maybe many, will remember that cutter tool, and maybe still have it.
The following users liked this post:
Yash swamy (11-04-2020)
#4
Yes the bottom studs + the locating dowels in the timing cover mean that the sump must be lowered to get the thing off. The only way I can see to do this with sump in place is to try to remove the studs from the alloy case with double lock nuts and gentle heat. No sure if there is enough room to do this behind the damper while the engine is in the bay.
I would not hesitate to remove the engine. I see from the photo in the other thread you have a crane - so go for it. You will curse yourself if the sump leaks because you were unable to clean the area properly for new gaskets while in place.
Front seals can weep a bit then come good. Mine is still the original seal from 47 years ago. No leaks at present.
PM me if you are needing a top timing plate.
John
I would not hesitate to remove the engine. I see from the photo in the other thread you have a crane - so go for it. You will curse yourself if the sump leaks because you were unable to clean the area properly for new gaskets while in place.
Front seals can weep a bit then come good. Mine is still the original seal from 47 years ago. No leaks at present.
PM me if you are needing a top timing plate.
John
The following 2 users liked this post by The Mekon:
Grant Francis (10-28-2020),
Yash swamy (11-04-2020)
#5
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