Translator, don't forget the new element that they found, administratium. Below is a little description of the element.

The heaviest element known to science was recently discovered by investigators at a major U.S. research university. The element, tentatively named administratium, has no protons or electrons and thus has an atomic number of 0. However, it does have one neutron, 125 assistant neutrons, 75 vice neutrons and 111 assistant vice neutrons, which gives it an atomic mass of 312. These 312 particles are held together by a force that involves the continuous exchange of meson-like particles called morons.

Since it has no electrons, administratium is inert. However, it can be detected chemically as it impedes every reaction it comes in contact with. According to the discoverers, a minute amount of administratium causes one reaction to take over four days to complete when it would have normally occurred in less than a second.

Administratium has a normal half-life of approximately three years, at which time it does not decay, but instead undergoes a reorganization in which assistant neutrons, vice neutrons and assistant vice neutrons exchange places. Some studies have shown that the atomic mass actually increases after each reorganization.

Research at other laboratories indicates that administratium occurs naturally in the atmosphere. It tends to concentrate at certain points such as government agencies, large corporations, and universities. It can usually be found in the newest, best appointed, and best maintained buildings.

Scientists point out that administratium is known to be toxic at any level of concentration and can easily destroy any productive reaction where it is allowed to accumulate. Attempts are being made to determine how administratium can be controlled to prevent irreversible damage, but results to date are not promising.

 

Hey Thermo, we've got vast reserves of the stuff over here ';-)

Any update Motor, or shall we just fill time for a while? That being the case:

Today's scientific question is:

What in the world is electricity and where does it go after it leaves the toaster?

Here is a simple experiment that will teach you an important electrical lesson: On a cool dry day, scuff your feet along a carpet, then reach your hand into a friend's mouth and touch one of his dental fillings.

Did you notice how your friend twitched violently and cried out in pain? This teaches one that electricity can be a very powerful force, but we must never use it to hurt others unless we need to learn an important lesson about electricity.


It also illustrates how an electrical circuit works. When you scuffed your feet, you picked up batches of "electrons", which are very small objects that carpet manufacturers weave into carpet so that they will attract dirt. The electrons travel through your bloodstream and collect in your finger, where they form a spark that leaps to your friend's filling, then travel down to his feet and back into the carpet, thus completing the circuit.

AMAZING ELECTRONIC FACT: If you scuffed your feet long enough without touching anything, you would build up so many electrons that your finger would explode! But this is nothing to worry about unless you have carpeting.

Although we modern persons tend to take our electric lights, radios, mixers, etc. for granted, hundreds of years ago people did not have any of these things, which is just as well because there was no place to plug them in. Then along came the first Electrical Pioneer, Benjamin Franklin, who flew a kite in a lightning storm and received a serious electrical shock.

This proved that lightning was powered by the same force as carpets, but it also damaged Franklin's brain so severely that he started speaking only in incomprehensible maxims, such as, "A penny saved is a penny earned." Eventually he had to be given a job running the post office.

After Franklin came a herd of Electrical Pioneers whose names have become part of our electrical terminology: Myron Volt, Mary Louise Amp, James Watt, Bob Transformer, etc. These pioneers conducted many important electrical experiments.

Among them, Galvani discovered (this is the truth) that when he attached two different kinds of metal to the leg of a frog, an electrical current developed and the frog's leg kicked, even though it was no longer attached to the frog, which was dead anyway.

Galvani's discovery led to enormous advances in the field of amphibian medicine. Today, skilled veterinary surgeons can take a frog that has been seriously injured or killed, implant pieces of metal in its muscles, and watch it hop back into the pond -- almost.

But the greatest Electrical Pioneer of them all was Thomas Edison, who was a brilliant inventor despite the fact that he had little formal education and lived in New Jersey. Edison's first major invention in 1877 was the phonograph, which could soon be found in thousands of American homes, where it basically sat until 1923, when the record was invented.

But Edison's greatest achievement came in 1879 when he invented the electric company. Edison's design was a brilliant adaptation of the simple electrical circuit: the electric company sends electricity through a wire to a customer, then immediately gets the electricity back through another wire, then (this is the brilliant part) sends it right back to the customer again.

This means that an electric company can sell a customer the same batch of electricity thousands of times a day and never get caught, since very few customers take the time to examine their electricity closely. In fact, the last year any new electricity was generated was 1937.

Today, thanks to men like Edison and Franklin, and frogs like Galvani's, we receive almost unlimited benefits from electricity.

For example, in the past decade scientists have developed the laser, an electronic appliance so powerful that it can vaporize a bulldozer 2000 yards away, yet so precise that doctors can use it to perform delicate operations to the human eyeball, provided they remember to change the power setting from "Bulldozer" to"Eyeball."

Cheers,
Rich

 

Fascinating!

I'm sure there will be something in there to help MM put a finger on his electrial gremlin. (Take care if you have been shuffling MM)

 

Actually, per Rich's post, I scuffed my feet for about an hour on my carpet. I then went to my car, plugged the positive battery terminal onto the index finger of my right hand, put the index finger of my left hand onto the coil terminal, and had a friend cross the starter solenoid with a screwdriver. The car fired up and purred like she never has!!

Now all I have to figure out is how to stay like that while driving.

I may have to hire someone to do it for me (stay like that...not drive...lol).

Anyway, I'm mid process of ripping (almost literally) out my dash and center console to get at the wires. After removing the wires from the bolt on the bulkhead, cleaning them, and putting them back in place, I seem to have lost any electricity that may have once run to the cockpit. I have electricity to a few of the relays in the engine compartment, but I lose it somewhere. So, I've still got to run all the wires (yes, each and every one) to figure out where each one goes, stops, combines with others, and ends up in relays, etc. No wonder mechanics get paid HUGE amounts for chasing electrical problems. SHEESH!!!

 

Motor, yes, electrical gremlins can be a bare to chase. Not like you can see the electricity flowing in the wiring (if you can, you have big, big problems). So, you have to put your full trust into the equipment and also be able to interpret what the instruments are telling you.

It is possible that you have a bad wire that is broken inside the insulation. Based on the age of the car, if you haven't replaced the wiring, it is very possible. Your best bet is to follow the wiring between the post and the firewall and go from there. Also, don't be afraid to use a little bit (key in on little) of dielectric grease. That will help minimize corrosion in the future and improve the conduction between the layers of terminals.

I wish I was there so I could put my hands on the car. IT would make this so much easier for me. But then, I bet you are pondering the $300 kit from Painless Wiring to simply rewire the whole car.

 

Thanks for a name and price. And while you're figuring up pricing...figure how much it would cost me to fly your butt out here for a week...lol. Can I use one of the generic GM harnesses in the Jag? I mean, it IS a GM motor, but Jag lighting, etc. Maybe you're on to something (at least in the future).

Anyway, tomorrow's the day!! I'm actually going to start taking out the dash, front seats, center console, and possibly the front fenders and hood (which I need to do anyway, since the last yahoo that had the hood, fenders, and front doors off didn't line 'em up right ). I'll take pictures and notes, so that you may share in what I will call "Resurrection of Christine."

 

"Your best bet is to follow the wiring between the post and the firewall and go from there."

Surely if you run a "new live" directly from the battery to this main post you can then quickly test for what is not working, with the key in the "ON" position.

I'm still thinking "Ignition switch", power going in, but no power coming out.

Look forward to your update, and as usual good luck.

Rich

 

Motor, the harness that you use I think is of little importance in this case. You are in a unique situation. The big thing is knowing how you want the wiring set up. Personally, I would be going with the box that has the most relays in it possible. That way you can relay in the headlights (high and low beam), fog lights, even your running lights. That way your switches only have to control a very small current, which will help them survive for a longer time. Let me take a look at the Painless Wiring site and see if I can come up with a recommended harness. There will still be some fabricating on your part as the harness really is only for the battery to fuse box and out to the first terminal beyond that. But, there are a lot of systems (back up lights, stop lights, etc) that require more wiring that just that.

As for cost, lets see, $1400 airplane ticket for first class flight, $1500 in lost wages,...... Can you afford me? LMAO. I would love to come out, but unfortunately, I think the wife might have a slight issue with that.

 

No I can't afford you...NOR your wife...lol.

I've taken the front seats and the center console out. I don't think I'll need to remove the dash (thank goodness!!!). I should be able to trace most (if not all) the wires to their destination that way. Pics to come...lol.

 

EUREKA!!!

So, I took the center (centre for those in the UK...lol) console and the front seats out. I started chasing this group of about 25 or so wires from the engine compartment to the cockpit where it went under the carpet and into the trunk. I opened the trunk, and found what you see in the pictures. I removed the bar that went across it to hold it in place, and popped the back of it off, and it looks like a giant circuit board.

Can anyone tell me what this thing is, and if it could be the root of my evils? Is it a main control module of some sort? I found what could be it in my wiring diagrams, but it's not named in the description of the schematics.

The larger one is what I need to know. The smaller one says "EGR Control Unit," and I can't think that IT would be the cause of my headache.

 

Looks like the main ECU to me. Don't go poking it with your screw driver. Does it not have a part no on it anywhere?

I don't see this as the root of your problem, because when you hard wire the coil the car runs fine which I doubt it would do if this unit was fried. I stand to be corrected.

Can't see as to how your EGR module (exhaust gas recirculation) controller could give you a totaly dead car. It would cause rough running more likely.

Keep plugging away at the wiring. Sent you another diag via email.

Rich

 

Got the diag, but the XJ6 and XJ12 are completely different animals (I'm fast figuring out).

You're correct. That big thing IS the ECU. I've eliminated it (and will trace wires from it forward) and the EGR control unit as possible sources of my problem. I don't need the EGR since my car has a carbbed Chevy 350 in it, and will be looking further into whether I need the ECU at all or not. If not, both of those will come out and go up for sale on eBay...lol...since no one makes them.

Thanks for the help, yet again Richard!! Your a fountain of knowledge!

 

Thats a point, the EGR will be redundant. The ECU can't be controlling the engine UNLESS it is a Chevy unit, although I do wonder if it will exert control over other systems.

Like you say trace forward.

Like a plonker I forgot to include a link in my email.

http://www.skjagtech.co.uk/support-p...r-support.html

It's where that diagram came from. The reason I sent it was because unlike most other diagrams we have, this one was in full colour even down to the wires themselves being coloured.

Err Dragular "NO NO NO" you'll give the poor thing a complex, such that it will only start at night with a full moon, or some such, and how the heck to we diagnose that problem. Then, you will definately need to fly in our Illuminatus, glow in the dark "THERMOMAN"

Cheers

 

Motor, the only other component in the car that I would be worried about is the tranny. I would give the tranny a good look over to see if there are any wires attached to it and if not, try to find a plug that you can undo and see what happens. With the modifications that you have done, you may have made that part unnecessary.

Wish you luck.

 

Thanks for the link, Rich! I checked it out and found some cool info there. Also like the color coded wires...lol.

Chris, I'll check the tranny once I'm done with what I've got going on now.

**update**

I've pulled the ECU and the EGR control unit out, and am starting to remove wiring and relays that I no longer need (anything and everything having to do with emissions control, fuel injection, and the like). What a chore!! I've been at it now for about 6 hours, and am getting ready to finish up removing the wiring for the ECU and EGR control unit. WHAT FUN!!! lol

By the way...anyone need about 200 feet of color coded wiring? lol

 

Motor, you may have removed all that stuff, but the question is now, will the car still run? That is the $100,000 question. Hopefully you haven't removed too much.

 

It hasn't run in a month (electrical probs, remember?). It couldn't possibly be any worse...lol.

Actually, almost all of the wires that I have removed I followed from the ECU and EGR control units to cut ends...so, no, I don't think I needed them anymore. A few were still connected to the relays in the engine compartment, so I'll have to trace each wire from those, hopefully figuring out which relay goes to what in the process.

 

Oops...hehe. I must have unplugged something I shouldn't have, because, since removing the extra wiring for the ECU and EGR control units and the dash (facia) panel, I have NO electricity to the fuse box now.

I guess I'll be playing with wires (and reviewing my wiring diags again) until I figure out what I did wrong.

 

At a rough guess, that would have been the 'live' wire then >(~,~)<

 

I guess not. It came back on, and is still doing the same thing. So, I've eliminated a LOT of wiring that wasn't needed in the car, trunk, and under the bonnet.

Here's a picture of the interior of Christine so you all can have a good belly laugh (at my expense) on this very nice New Year's Day!!