Fan Clutch Difficulty?
#21
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So it took longer then I anticipated, but its all done! That is a tight space to work in, and I did have to take an extra trip to get some nuts and washers (I was warned), but its done and working! I didn't take her for a drive but I let her sit in park and run for a good 30 minutes and she stayed just below 90. So overall I'm pretty happy.
I do have another question for you guys. I knocked off a part in the process here it is:
![](https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-nVuK190MEaM/T9lgHfBK7aI/AAAAAAAAAi8/fET3s0lUKvo/s614/IMAG0196.jpg)
That black boot on top coming off of my engine, I'm not positive what it is, but I knocked it off. I must of broken whatever was keeping it in place. For my test I have used a hose clamp to keep it in place but I imagine I shouldn't drive like that. Any help identifying that so I can secure it properly would be appreciated.
Thanks for all the help guys, I'm looking forward to finally getting a long drive in.
Domenic
I do have another question for you guys. I knocked off a part in the process here it is:
![](https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-nVuK190MEaM/T9lgHfBK7aI/AAAAAAAAAi8/fET3s0lUKvo/s614/IMAG0196.jpg)
That black boot on top coming off of my engine, I'm not positive what it is, but I knocked it off. I must of broken whatever was keeping it in place. For my test I have used a hose clamp to keep it in place but I imagine I shouldn't drive like that. Any help identifying that so I can secure it properly would be appreciated.
Thanks for all the help guys, I'm looking forward to finally getting a long drive in.
Domenic
#22
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C44386 breather cap. Should be available at any typical Jag supplier.
BTW, the pipe to the cap should be cleaned every few years. And the aluminum housing the cap clamps to can be removed to reveal a breather screen. This, too, should be cleaned from time-to-time. Order new gaskets first, though. You might need 'em.
If the breather system is clogged you'll end up with excessive crankcase pressure....which will worsen any oil leaks you might have.
Cheers
DD
BTW, the pipe to the cap should be cleaned every few years. And the aluminum housing the cap clamps to can be removed to reveal a breather screen. This, too, should be cleaned from time-to-time. Order new gaskets first, though. You might need 'em.
If the breather system is clogged you'll end up with excessive crankcase pressure....which will worsen any oil leaks you might have.
Cheers
DD
#23
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Great, thank you, I ordered a new one offline.
Now as far as the heating issue goes: I took for a real drive today and it still gets hot but not nearly as bad. I ordered a new thermostat (again) but I'm going to go out and look at the auxiliary fan which is not working. I'll keep you all posted.
Now as far as the heating issue goes: I took for a real drive today and it still gets hot but not nearly as bad. I ordered a new thermostat (again) but I'm going to go out and look at the auxiliary fan which is not working. I'll keep you all posted.
#24
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#26
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The fan switch closes at 94ºC (201ºF) and opens at 92ºC ....not really extreme.
In mild conditions (let's say less than 75ºF ambient conditions) it'll probably never come on at all unless the cooling system needs attention.
In hotter ambient temps and/or gridlock traffic it'll run fairly frequently.
Cheers
DD
In mild conditions (let's say less than 75ºF ambient conditions) it'll probably never come on at all unless the cooling system needs attention.
In hotter ambient temps and/or gridlock traffic it'll run fairly frequently.
Cheers
DD
#27
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Hmmm.......
A car this old really has to be up for a new or recored radiator IMHO, and until this is done, you are just circling round the problem. FWIW my 1980 had a recore in 1992, and it cured overheating, at least I never got a boil-up after it, only a stall in Waterford, RoI, in 90 degree heat in a traffic jam. I think it was fuel vaporisation as I had the old type of fuel rail. Started straightaway, jam cleared, and we were off !
A car this old really has to be up for a new or recored radiator IMHO, and until this is done, you are just circling round the problem. FWIW my 1980 had a recore in 1992, and it cured overheating, at least I never got a boil-up after it, only a stall in Waterford, RoI, in 90 degree heat in a traffic jam. I think it was fuel vaporisation as I had the old type of fuel rail. Started straightaway, jam cleared, and we were off !
#28
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I have no problem replacing the radiator if it doesn't cost a ton of money. I found this one Brand New 1 Row w/o EOC w/o TOC Replacement Radiator For 4.2 L6 GAS AT | eBay for $129 but it almost seems too cheap. Any one have any experience with aftermarket radiators?
Does anyone have any idea how long of a job it is too do a radiator swap? I've got my new thermostat coming so hopefully that helps with this too, but if I can get away with a radiator for $129 and I can do the job myself then I don't have a problem with replacing it.
Does anyone have any idea how long of a job it is too do a radiator swap? I've got my new thermostat coming so hopefully that helps with this too, but if I can get away with a radiator for $129 and I can do the job myself then I don't have a problem with replacing it.
#29
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I have no problem replacing the radiator if it doesn't cost a ton of money. I found this one Brand New 1 Row w/o EOC w/o TOC Replacement Radiator For 4.2 L6 GAS AT | eBay for $129 but it almost seems too cheap. Any one have any experience with aftermarket radiators?
Hard to tell with aftermarket stuff. Some good, some bad. This rad is an aluminum replacement style. The alumin is good, I can attest to the quality of manufacture. I recall there should be a heater hose nipple right above the lower radiator hose nipple.....I don't see it on this radiator but maybe it's a generic photograph.
Original Jag radiators are high grade. I keep it unless it's beyond saving.
Does anyone have any idea how long of a job it is too do a radiator swap?
3-4 hours oughta do it if it's your first time doing the job on an XJ6. It's a little fiddly. You'll want a second pair of hands when it comes time to lift the old one out and set the new one in
Cheers
DD
#30
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Thanks for weighing in, the only problem I have with keeping (and cleaning/fixing) my current one is that I don't have a garage or even a driveway. I'm doing all this work on the street, and taking it off, having it fixed, and leaving my car in the street the whole time is less then ideal. Maybe I'll replace it and hold on to the orginal incase anything happens with it in the future. I'll have to think about this one. Thanks again.
#31
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The fan switch closes at 94ºC (201ºF) and opens at 92ºC ....not really extreme.
In mild conditions (let's say less than 75ºF ambient conditions) it'll probably never come on at all unless the cooling system needs attention.
In hotter ambient temps and/or gridlock traffic it'll run fairly frequently.
Cheers
DD
In mild conditions (let's say less than 75ºF ambient conditions) it'll probably never come on at all unless the cooling system needs attention.
In hotter ambient temps and/or gridlock traffic it'll run fairly frequently.
Cheers
DD
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