First attempt to start after 20 years, where is the fuel cut-off relay??
#1
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I've been working on bringing this car back to life for ayear and a half. Replaced a lot of stuff. Hooked up the new battery yesterday; no smoke. With no plugs cranked the engine; spun nicely. Hooked up a plug, cranked again and got spark! Ok, so I'm a happy camper.
Problem: I don't have voltage to the fuel pumps(submersible, rebuilt). I don't have voltage TO the roll-over switch thing. So, next is the "fuel cut-off relay" according to the schematics.
Question: where isthe fuel cut-off relay located?
I'm getting so anxious to see this baby start, and I knowI'm close.
Thanks for the help. Geneo
1977 XJ6C, with downdraft Webers, (and submerged fuel pumps
Problem: I don't have voltage to the fuel pumps(submersible, rebuilt). I don't have voltage TO the roll-over switch thing. So, next is the "fuel cut-off relay" according to the schematics.
Question: where isthe fuel cut-off relay located?
I'm getting so anxious to see this baby start, and I knowI'm close.
Thanks for the help. Geneo
1977 XJ6C, with downdraft Webers, (and submerged fuel pumps
Last edited by geneo; 05-11-2018 at 01:51 PM. Reason: format
#2
#3
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thanks, that's what I called the roll-over switch and mine is there also. after further investigation, I don't believe on my Series II car there is a fuel cut-off relay. I now believe the voltage goes directly from the ignition switch through the roll-over switch to the tank choice switch and on directly to the fuel pumps.
anybody agree with that??
geneo
anybody agree with that??
geneo
#4
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That makes sense.
So, next, with the ignition on, use a VOM or test lamp and see if there is voltage at the pump in the boot.
And.as you needed the schematic to ID the supply connection at the pump, jump 12 v to it and see if the pump activates.
Or before that, again tot he schematic, Id the fuel pump relay.. Most cars have them. Relays can fail or more likely the connects corrode and become non conductive. At time, merely a connect/disconnect sequence do a few times fixes them!!
Carl
So, next, with the ignition on, use a VOM or test lamp and see if there is voltage at the pump in the boot.
And.as you needed the schematic to ID the supply connection at the pump, jump 12 v to it and see if the pump activates.
Or before that, again tot he schematic, Id the fuel pump relay.. Most cars have them. Relays can fail or more likely the connects corrode and become non conductive. At time, merely a connect/disconnect sequence do a few times fixes them!!
Carl
#5
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thanks Carl. I have continuity from the pump to the tank selector switch and on to the inertia switch. All those wires should get voltage with the key on, but I can't seem to get voltage TO the inertia switch and cannot find where that wire goes. The schematic shows it going to a connection of White wires and then on directly to the key switch. My schematic shows no pump relay. Although I just found this unidentified relay securely screwed to the outside of the dash support on the passanger side. Does anyone know what that is??
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