I recently purchased a '77 XJ6L and the front doors don't lock. All I was given was a manual key (one for the doors/trunk and one for the ignition). The rear doors lock and I noticed while playing with the levers in the center console that one of them is an auto door lock/unlock. When I try manually locking from inside, the paddle just flips back forward and the key doesn't turn from the outside on either door. I'm assuming it may have something to do with the auto locks, is there a way to bypass them so they're manual only? Figured I'd ask before starting to pull panels so I'd at least have some direction once I started.

 

Hello, Maki, welcome to our section.
Keys should unlock both front doors from outside without needing the power lock feature; Ignition key for the driver door (unless someone has re-keyed it) and Gas cap key for passenger door.

Flipping the paddles doesn't move the keys on the outside, but turning the key on the outside *Should* move the paddle on the inside.

If the keys don't work this way there's something amiss within the door lock itself. To fix it you'll need to take the liners off as there's no other way to access the locking mechanisms.

None of this has anything to do with the power locks. That system can be left alone and merely not used if you don't want it, as it might be better to have it and not use it than to need it at some future time and not have it.

Do the keys seem to turn normally, as in, do they rotate a full 180 degrees?
Do the power locks indeed engage all the door locks?
(';')

 

The keys don’t turn at all in the front door. I haven’t checked the rear doors. Works fine on the trunk. The electric lock on the rear drivers door will slowly try to lock if I hold the lock button down but won’t actually lock.

 

The words “lock button” are throwing me off here, unless series 2 had that? Series 3 doesn’t. Maybe it’s an aftermarket setup?? Someone else with a series 2 will be along shortly to help ..

 

So in the below picture, the 5 buttons on the right are the windows, center one is the window lock button. The one on the lower left below the cigarette lighter is the "door lock" button. When you hit it, you can hear the actuators, but none of the doors in testing actually lock/unlock, so I'm assuming at some point the previous owner disconnected the power lock option from the car.

 

Yes, Maki, you have series 2 just like I do.
Darren has a Series 3 with no lock button, in fact the whole locking mechanism is different between the series.

If the rear lock "slowly tried to work" the power feature is still connected, that lock merely needs cleaning and lubrication. I can help you with that as I've had to do that to my car.

The TRUNK key should NOT work any of the doors unless someone has re-keyed them. The trunk key works only for the trunk and the glove box. Rear doors didn't come from factory with key locks, only front doors.

You should have 3 different keys which I have pictured below.

Some of these keys might sort of fit in other locks but will only work the locks they're made for. That may be your problem right there.

Here is a picture of the original 3 different keys for my car so you can compare body and cut:

Left most is the original Ignition/Driver door key, Single cut, which I have since replaced with one with a full head. Originally these keys had rubber heads which rotted away after decades of use.

Center is the Trunk/Glove Box key, double cut, which may or may not physically fit in the passenger door lock, but certainly won't turn it.

Right is the Gas cap/Passenger door, double cut.
(';')

 

That solves one mystery. I only received 2 keys. The gold one (single side) is the ignition and the silver (double side) is the trunk:

 

OK, that explains quite a lot, yes.
You should be able to open the driver door, and unless someone has re-keyed the passenger door to work with that key also, which I have heard of some doing, you need to unlock it from the inside.
So you don't have gas cap key then? Or has someone re-keyed those too (not hard, I re-keyed one of mine)?
(';')

 

Just went out and double checked. I got the passenger door locked, though it was tight so probably needs to be lubed well. The key for the trunk works on both gas caps and the passenger door. That's at least a step in the right direction. lol. I guess tomorrow I'll look at pulling the drivers panel off and see what's going on. The outside ring where you put the key spins free, so that may indicate some damage inside as well.

 

Well Alright then!
Onward!
(';')

 

Did you get your locks sorted?
(';')

 

Not yet, unfortunately my truck is acting up now, threw the alternator belts sometime this morning or last night too. I think it knows we got the Jag to do our regular driving.

The wife suggested we just change out the front door locks completely as the cylinder for the drivers side is seized completely so if I'm going to be in the door messing with it, I might as well put new ones in. Now starts the search for the cylinders for it.

 

You'll probably find cylinders at https://everydayxj.com/.
David Bodger posts here, good guy to deal with, sells good quality used Jaguar parts. No "junk" leaves his mail room. He might even be able to include the appropriate keys with the lock(s).
(';')

 

I messaged him. I did find another site that had what I assume is new ones for $134. A bit steep for me seeing as the lock cylinders for my last XJ (Jeep Cherokee) were only $15. Going to have to get used to Jag parts having a higher price tag I guess.

 

Shop around. Sometimes you can get genuine quality parts from Amazon even. Or eBay. Parts are where you find them and Google knows where they all can be found.
(';')

 

Got the email back over the weekend that they didn’t have any. Wife was playing around today with the lock switch and paddles and was able to get it to lock. Only passenger is unlockable with the key. Every door except the drivers door is able to unlock from the paddle without messing with the switch. Drivers takes a few minutes hitting the switch and rocking the paddle to unlock.

 

That's a sure sign of crying need of cleaning and lubrication. I had to do that for every one of my locks when I got the car.

Do it now, do it right, and you'll not have to do it again for 40 years. It's not that hard once you get the door liners off, many of us have done it and can help you. If you don't clean and lube the mechanisms to ease their operation, you run the risk of burning out the thermal breaker for the system and/or the locking solenoids in the doors themselves. I can tell you how I know that.

And, once you get the door apart, you might find the driver door cylinder is actually repairable with cleaning and lubrication.

I do understand how you might be reluctant to tackle this job, but look at it as a challenge. And what a victory when you're successful!
(';')

 

I agree and while you have the door cards off you can easily clean the connections for the power windows to prevent problems down the road. Also, if your car has rub strips on the door, while you are in there you can easily determine if they are glued on and easy to remove or if they are held with screws or rivets. Just reach in and run your fingers on the inside of the door and if there are rivets you'll feel them.