OR, ya Could do an Ancient Cartitated conversion and sidestep the electronics completely!! That's My plan when Nix lunches her engine of tranny!
(';')

 

I finally wired up my engine with the TBI harness and got the engine running on my engine stand.
Had the alternator hooked up and I rigged up a Cadillac Eldorado Radiator with an external fan for cooling.
Ran the engine for about 1/2 hour at 1500-2000 RPM and so far everything seems okay except for my neighbors ears, since I ran it with only a straight pipe off the Y-pipe from the engine.
The ECM seems to be controlling the spark advance, fuel delivery thru the injectors and the A/F mixture via the O2 sensor.
Now, I have to install the engine into the car then figure out the ECM placement before I cut any of the wires.

I need to know which is the best radiator I can purchase for installation in the Series 3.
The donor Jag, had the John's cars conversion kit using a 4-core Brass radiator but it leaks all over. I can get it re-cored but it is my understanding that there are better lighter radiators out there to be used.
Which radiator have you all been using, and which do you recommend.

 

If you check out Andrew's site.. the "units" all "snap/slide" together. I used this on my '72 LT1/700R and it worked out great.

The actual install of the radiator only needs the GM rubber isolators and it then fits fine...use AC foam to seal the sides and top so the air flows through
all instead of not being used for cooling.

The dual GM fans I used had the rubber louvers and the AC condenser just
slip into the other two. Fans controlled by the PCM.

Cold air kit by Bob Loftus completes the installation... it will be used on my TBI install as well in the other Series 1.

 

Brass vs alloy radiators? depends on whom you listen to?


Mine uses the big brass four row core via Johscars. so far, just
fine.


But, the Andrew Weinberg suggested alloy unit seems a good choice.
Figuring about at least four hundred for a decent recore.


Carl

 

About the ECM location:
I finally found a good location ...up behind the glove compartment.
I made a small bracket to hold it in place. I shortened the wires as needed.

 

Modern aluminum radiators use flat tubes, larger diameterup to 1 inch and less rows. The old 4 row brass radiators not only weight a lotmore, the massive amount of metal and tight fins restrict air flow. Suppliers I'veinvestigated and am impressed with are Ron Davis and Griffin Cooling.

www.rondavisradiators.com
www.griffinrad.com

of course Andrew has the experience.

 

I took my Equinox to the Chevy dealer for service under my extended warranty and while waiting, I spoke to the guys in the parts department regarding the radiator. They told me that the GM replacement radiator they use for the '87-90 5.7L Camaro is a single row or a double row aluminum/plastic one and it would cost me $125.00 plus tax for either one since I was a customer of theirs. They have them in stock. So single core or two core?
What do you guys think?

 

Try Rock Auto or Parts Geeks and ask for 1991 Camaro (Firebird) 350 TPI radiator . Then you will have a good radiator plus all the attachment points for the dual fan set up found on the same GM car.

I wired my 2 fans the following way One fan works with the A/C getting its juice from a relay . Relay has 12V+ on #30 coming from a small box (got from some GM car at pic a part) small box gets 12V+ from large cable from firewall post. When A/C comes on it triggers the relay and fan gets 12V+.

The other fan uses the same set up as Jaguar used for the AUX fan including the red relay with the wire latch set up. I just plumbed the sensor into the coolant supply - just like Jaguar had it.

 

I'm going to two row aluminum. Oil and trans coolers are being moved to inner fenders below the head lights. They were blocking/preheating the air going though a four row brass. Also going with a smaller/modern aluminum condenser.
BBC and a slippery convertor (2800) add too much heat. Four row brass worked but the fan (4500 cfm) runs on high all the time.

 

I still see it as two ways to do the job. Namely, cool the engine.


I've no issues with the plastic/alloy radiators. Exception, the alloys resist repair. but, the price overcomes that, sorta.


OTH,as previously posted. My for row brass unit doesn't leak and cools the LT1 just fine,


The PCM directs Fan1 and fan 2. They run silent most of the time.
At slower speeds as idle or in traffic, one or both kick in. As now configured, if and when, I get the AC going, one will kick in with the AC. A bit imperfect, but not an issue now. It seems to work elsewhere.


Carl

 

As of now, the system is limited to heat and power vent. OK so far,
but high ambients on the way, then....




Carl

 

I started to pull the sick Jaguar powertrain from the series 3 I am converting.
I removed the exhaust pipe, the transmission mount and the driveshaft. However, when I removed the driveshaft flange at the differential, gear oil came out from the cavity where the pinion nut sits. The differential unit is completely dry. No signs of any oil leaks there.
Does this mean that the pinion seal is leaking? and if so, how difficult of a job is it to replace the seal.

 

Falls into the same bin as leaking windscreen base, leaking M/C, ahhh all that fine engineering... Mine leaks as well and from what I have found you can change the seal but be careful when cranking up the torque to tighten "THE BIG NUT" that you do not go past the spot you marked on the nut and surrounding surface to index it.. If you do, you will "adjust" the crush spacer that determines the "pinion to crown wheel "mesh. Lots of info available on how to do this. If I remember the torque is in neighborhood of 150 lbs. I may be wrong on that but I have the impression its a "lots of torque "deal but not too much.

 

I purchased an AC Delco two row radiator and the rubber isolators from my Chevy dealer today.
I am still pondering whether to go with the clutch fan since I have the shroud and a pusher e-fan for the AC or go with the configuration I have in my other Series 3 which is two e- fans for engine cooling and a third pusher e-fan working with the AC on.

 

I have had three Lumps with just the two E-fans. Two had a trans cooler and the other one just a deep trans pan. No cooling issues were noted... we have pretty hot weather in So Cal... have seen 114F down to 111F in heavy traffic in the PM with AC on and no cooling issues. All the dual E-fans had shrouds as that is critical and I saw no difference in the cooling from the GM fans, Ford dual fans or the after market units. Originally it just had one large GM E-fan that also cooled properly

Just seal around the radiator with heavy 2 inch AC foam from Lowe's (you can see the foam on top of the radiator in the picture)... this assures all the incoming air goes into the radiator for cooling.I even went to the trouble of making metal sealing plates on the sides of the radiator for the S1 LT1/700R as it "looked good"....

 

On my Series 3 with the Jag engine, I have two e-fans plus the original electric pusher fan that turns on with the AC.
On the conversion Jag, I have the following options.
1) Use the metal clutch fan, or
2) Use two E-Fans.
I will be using the fan shroud that I have or purchase E-Fans with the integrated shrouds.
@ Roger: What is the CFM rating of the e-fans you are using with the GM engine?

 

I do not know the CFM ratings, Ford Probe dual fans on my 383/200R that I have now... stock dual GM Camaro fans on the LT1...

They both work properly and keep the car cool, even in our So Cal heavy traffic and hot weather using the AC. CFm rating is not
as important as using all the incoming air through the radiator.

 

Because I have not determined the location of the ECM at this time, I have decided to install my 350 engine with a 4 barrel carb, get it running in the car, then switch it over to the TBI system.
I am doing it this way so I can work out all of the related issues that come with doing the conversion.
Once everything is working properly, when I do the switch over to TBI, any issues I encounter will be solely with the TBI system and the related electrical connections.
So far, here are some of the issues I have encountered.
1) The drive shaft from the donor Series 2 vehicle is 4.5 inches too short.
I am resolving this issue by having a new drive shaft made.
2) Engine does not crank with the key. On the original Jaguar tranny, there was a 4-wire connector going to the neutral safety/reverse lamp switch which was located at the selector shaft on the tranny.
I removed the switch and connected it to the 4-wire connector thinking that it was not cranking because the switch was not there. I turned the switch to the park position and still no crank.
I removed the green/black wire at the starter relay, and wired that terminal to ground. Still no crank.
If I jump the brown wire to the red/white wire at the starter relay, the car cranks, and with the key on, it starts.
I am yet to check which wire goes from the ignition switch to the starter relay when it is in the crank position.
My question is whether there is another switch under the console where the gear selector is or whether the one on the tranny is the P/N switch.
I will be working on trying to solve the 'no crank' issue today, but if anyone has ideas on what to do, it will be greatly appreciated.

 

11.00 a.m.
I have power from the switch in the crank position on the Y/W wire at Terminal W2.
I have power on the Brown wire connected to terminal C2.
I have the R/W wire from the starter solenoid connected to Terminal C4.
I ran a ground wire to Terminal W1 where the N/S switch is connected to bypass same.
Still no crank.
I switched out the relay for one that previously worked from the donor car which is a
Series 2, It is slightly different in that it only has Terminals C1,C2, W1 and W2.
Still, No Crank.
Does anyone know of a replacement relay from a local auto parts store I can use for testing?

 

From recollection.
yellow white from ignition switch to starter relay.
red/white from relay to starter solenoid.
black from relay to starter relay to interrupt
switch in the console. Here my recollection gets even
fuzzier. combination back up lamp/ignition interrupt
on the trans left side. I think that is it. So, it left
with the BW!!!


Fix: there is a spacer on the shift tower. Remove it
and add in a micro switch. Fiddly, tiny parts.
best done on the bench. that means removal
of the tower.


Or.... just ground that black. Engine will crank
in any gear!!!!! Good habit to put trans in park any way before
cranking. Old tech.


Carl