Carl, on my car the wire is Black with green stripe.
As per Doug in another post, he wrote something to this effect. Remove Black green or Black wire and replace with a jumper to ground to bypass the N/S switch.
Still no crank.
Suspecting relays that I used.

 

Carl.
I am using the Johns Cars adapter on my transmission shift cable and it moves the gears into the proper notches with the shifter handle. You are saying that there is an interrupt switch in the console in addition to the N/S switch on the trans?

 

No, on the XJ6, it isn't present. It is on the shift tower for the
XJS, as they use a GM transmission.


But, the shift towers are very similar. On the XJ6 tower, you will find a spacer as the N/S interrupt is on the BW!


Therefore, removing the spacer and replacing it with the micro switch
Works.


My John's car kit included a harness for the starter relay. One way diodes on two legs, in opposite directions. Why? I don't know. Eliminate some form of a back feed???


I tried a relay harness sans the diodes. big mess. Why, not sure.
May have been ignition switch issues.


Check the S57 Jaguar schematic. Duplicate except the yw goes to the GM solenoid. It don't care???


Can you crank by jumping 12v from battery + to the small post on the solenoid. During my install, I had an extra there. useful to crank sans start. I have one now, Emergency crank in case the switched relay goes bonkers.


Carl

 

Sanchez ,.. The S 57 publication, is best You need Fig 24.1 of that manual. CHeck to see if the stater relay has the right wires on the right terminals. You have the big ground wire chassis to engine connected?
I used a XJS shift tower in place of the XJ6 unit. ...has the connections on the shift tower instead of the trans lever under the car near the shifter arm. Connected the P/N sensor wire for the ECM to the same spot as the starter relay ground and used a diode to stop the 12V + from traveling up the starter relay green/blk wire to the relay. See Andrew's site for explanation.

 

So it was my two old Jaguar Starter Relays after all.
I purchased a Bosch 12v 40 amp relay and all is well.
I can get my hands on a XJS shift tower. I believe its a 95 or 96.
As far as grounds go, I have 2 negative cables off the battery. One to the engine block and the other to the frame. I also have a braided ground wire going from frame to starter bolt.
Now that I have the engine running, I am waiting on my drive shaft which I had to get made. It was promised to me on Thursday. Once that is installed, its off to the muffler shop to deal with the exhaust system, not forgetting the bung for the O2 sensor for when I do the switch over.
I am presently running a cheapo fuel pump for the carburetor, but its having a hard time pulling fuel from the tank. It runsI did not want to spend big bucks on a fuel pump just to test the mechanicals of the conversion.
It runs for a while then runs out of fuel. I am 1/2 full on my right tank. I wait a while and it runs again until it starves for fuel again. I guess the cheapo pump is not up to the task. If i put the hose in a fuel container near the front of the car (3 feet of supply hose he car runs without starving for fuel.
My config for fuel in the trunk is two external filters before the pump and one after the pump.

 

gotta love those old Jaguar/Lucas relays, (NO NO).

i converted all most of my electrics to GM delco,or Bosch,21yrs and holding!

but still have problems sometime with Dash and ignition switchs. Lucas.

 

What's this switch for? It is located to the front of the gear selector and is only activated when gear 2 is selected and the protrusion seen at the lower front of the selector pushes it in. Is this the microswitch Carl mentioned in his post?. If so, the car starts whether the switch is in the on or off position.

 

Carl,
FYI The reason you need 1 diode on the Starter RELAY ground wire (green/black) is because the GM computer has to know the status of the car. Is it in Park or Neutral ? (running but not moving under power) It makes this determination by monitoring the ground connection where the Green/Black wire from starter relay (the ground wire) connects (on gear shifter). GM computer sends a signal to the same spot that the green/black occupies to see if it can find ground there, (shifter in P or N). So clip the Green/black from its ground at shifter, attach the GM P/N computer wire to that spot. Attach a diode to the same spot and finally re attach the green/black starter relay ground wire to the diode. If there was "no diode",... the signal from the GM computer will travel up to the starter relay ground (green/black) and cause problems with the Jaguar electrical circuit(s) ... my understanding of this issue, which is one of the places where the Jaguar and GM systems integrate.
As well (with my GM TBI system) as a part of that portion of the GM system, the EGR and VSS have to be connected and functioning or the computer will "throw" CHECK ENGINE codes.

 

Alyn:


Thanks. Got it. Another sweet mystery of lumphood resolved.


Sanchez:


That is the right place. The micro that is there is to interrupt Cruise control unless the transmission is in a drive gear. No cruise allowed n park, neutral or reverse!


Alongside you should see a spacer It can be removed and a microswitch added and adjusted to provide a ground for the starter relay only in Neutral or park. The XJS tower has the two microswitches. I swapped in an XJS tower. I note that Alyn did that as well. The XJS tower also provides the backup lamp switch. Not present in the XJ6 tower as it used the one on the BW.


Carl

 

I think I live in the boonies. Machine shop called me yesterday to inform me that there will be a 2 week turnaround for my driveshaft rebuild. This is after I dropped it off last Monday.
Needless to say, I told them that that was unacceptable and took my driveshaft back with the intention of taking it to an Orlando machine shop who promised me a 2 day turnaround.
I decided to do some more measuring and lo and behold, I realized that the U-joints on the original Jaguar 2 piece driveshaft and the too short Chevy driveshaft were the same.
On a whim, I installed the Turbo 350 transmission yoke on the original jaguar driveshaft and decided to test fit it. With the yoke all the way in I had to pull it back out 3/4 inch to mate with the differential flange and the carrier bearing lined up perfectly.
Before I do anything more, like replacing the four U-joints and a new carrier bearing, I just wanted to post the results to get some feedback from the forum as to whether this is the right choice or should I go ahead and make a new one piece driveshaft.

 

3/4 should be OK. If you are concerned get a longer yolk. Since the XJ cars dont have a live axle there isn't much lateral movement movement of the yolk.

This could also be an opportunity to re-drill your mount plates and move the engine back a 1/2 inch for better weight distribution handling.

 

Sanchez, moving forward feels good, huh!!!


I think you will need two bungs for the O2 sensors!
one for each bank. I bought two down pipes from
Sun Coast in Punta Gordo, FLA. Near you???
Nice workmanship. Fit great, bent to fit around
steering tower very nicely. Great price. Saved me
some $'s as my quote for the rest dropped a bit
on noting the down pipes were on.


I drilled mine and welded on the bungs that
came in my Johnscars kit. Watch where,,
I didn't and needed extensions for the harness.
I found a maker and all was well. Harness extensions.


As to the drive shaft, I'd not mess with the two
piece original. spend the $'s on the one piece.
Simplicity is good there.


Project for the day here. Swap out ATT
DSL and telephone for Xfinity triple play.
Modem in one room, phones and computers in others???
I think I have it thought out. Just gotta disengage
and get at it, apart from the world or a bit...


Carl

 

Carl, Punta Gorda is on Florida's west coast. About a two hour drive from me. I will give Sun Coast a call re: the down pipes. The one I have installed is pretty tight at the tower, just enough to get a hacksaw blade between the pipe and the tower.
@icsamerica: My engine is sitting back. I have about 9 inches from the crank pulley to the radiator. Cooling with 2 e-fans placed inside shroud. Will take some pics to post.
Right now, I am running the 4-barrel carburetor to get all of the little issues squared away before I do the TBI conversion. I am fabricating an air cleaner system using a air cleaner housing from a Cadillac Eldorado. My ECM will stay in the engine bay and cooled with the incoming air. Going to the truck store to purchase some 3.5 or 4 inch flexible hose to route incoming air.
TIP OF THE DAY: After you install a transmission cooler, don't forget to reconnect the input line to the radiator before you start the car. It really makes a mess of your engine bay and the garage floor. Care to guess how I know this? lol.

Gotta finish the clean up before the wife gets home. The spill is where my washer and dryer is located

 

This will work on any Jaguar... the radiator support is from a S2 (mine is custom made to hold my B&M trans cooler) and has a hole cut into the middle for the air cleaner housing (custom made out of carbon fiber by Bob Loftus) and has a K&N filter that sits in the incoming air stream.

Plenum cap and coupler is from Spectre (Summit Racing) and the stainless tube connecting to the bellows is a exhaust tip that is four inches on the plenum cap
end and tapered on the other end to fit the 3 3/4" hole in the bellows.

All fits nicely under the Jaguar hood...

 

Sanchez.

I would buy the down pipes first from Suncoast (that is what i am using) and install them... THEN position the engine so that you get best clearance around the steering . Watch for how close you are to the steering gaitors.
I made a few heat shields from the old Jaguar heat shield that they used on top of the Jag exhaust manifold...cut them into a couple of strips that I am going to have tack welded to the pipes just above the gaiters to shield them from the exhaust heat. You can then weld in the rest of the exhaust system.

 

Oops!!
Doncha just Hate it when something like that happens!!
(';')

 

I picked up the XJS gear shift tower yesterday. I have not installed it as yet.
I noticed that besides the two micro switches, there is a electrical solenoid/plunger, that unless electrically activated the shift lever will not come out of Park.
How are the micro switches and the plunger wired?
See attached pictures.
I also was able to adjust the detent cable, and finally took it for a drive. The transmission shifts properly so I am happy with that.
I now have to turn my attention to the cooling system. With the AC compressor mounted high in the drivers' side I have to remove the original expansion tank.
I am looking at mounting one on the passenger side of the vehicle. Where have you mounted yours?

 

forgot to attach pictures

 

Sanchez,
Nix came to me with this overflow configuration, but we had to use a different tank:
Overflow is routed through this vinyl tubing to the left side of the radiator and down under it, lying on the lower radiator mount.


From there it comes up on the right side of the radiator to the bottom of this commercially available tank that came with its own mounting bracket. Husband already had it lying around in the spare parts and doesn't remember where he got it.

Excess water enters the bottom front of this tank (capacity 2 quarts) and overflows out the top rear. The exit tubing is threaded around various suspension components and extends low enough to just run out on the ground; unless there's a gusher, in which case I have Much Bigger problems.

The cap for this tank is a simple screw cap, obviously not pressure capable.
(';')

 

Sanchez:


Good work. It runs and drives. What a great feeling...


Good on the XJS tower. Not only does it have the two needed additional switches, but the detents match your GM transmission much better. Two ways to figure out the wires. One is by deduction.
1. The micro switch on the XJ6 tower is for cruise interrupt. Same on the XJS tower. So, the other must be starter N/S enable. elementary, my dear Watson, eh wot?


2. Thusly, the one on the left side of the XJS tower is for the back up
lamps. Formerly done by a switch on the BW. Finding that wire befuddled me a tad. but, I resolved it.


By far, you just gotta get the S57 publication. O'wise, it is flying blind.


Down pipes: I've gone sans heat shield on the passenger side all along. No ill effects. My Johnscars instructions suggested this worked, but, that some used a shield from an XJS with or without some adjustment. There is quite a bit more room on mine than a hacksaw blade. I think that is just too close.


Enjoy....


Carl