I have been examining the XJS tower and the solenoid in Pic 2 with no power keeps the shift lever in 'PARK'. TO take it out of 'PARK' the solenoid(gearshift interlock) has to retract. Have you all deleted the solenoid? If not, from what I know of other cars, it is a safety feature to prevent you from putting the car in gear without putting your foot on the brake pedal. Is it wired to the brake switch?. The solenoid has 2 wires Green/yellow and yellow/red.
The front microswitch is self explanatory. Unplug the existing cruise control inhibit wires and plug it into the new tower microswitch.
The rear microswitch has two wires, Blue/grey and black. If this is for the N/S switch, I will have to find the original 4-wire harness that went to the BW transmission and figure out which of the four wires is for the N/S switch and then the other 2 will be for the reverse lamps. But, what do they connect to?
I have been looking at the S57 diagrams for the XJ6 and the XJS and I am confused.
The tower that I have is from a 1996 XJS.

 

Sanchez,.. I htink you have one of the later style shifters from an XJS. The one I am using is identical to the XJ6 unit except it has the P/N switch on the shifter tower. I do not have the extra pieces you are referring to.

Also from the pictures of the one you have I can see it does not have the same "top of the shifter arm". Yours seems to have a screw on ball while the one I have has the XJ6 style wooden piece at the top of the arm.

Maybe just remove the solenoid??

As for wiring.. on mine I have the starter relay ground (green/black to the shifter so that its grounded to the shifter/chassis in P or N) the other wires I have are the green (from fuse 11) and green brown ( maybe purple ..can't remember) but it goes to the reverse lights and is connected to the side of the shifter arm switch so that is connects the reverse lights to power when selecting reverse.

 

Sanchez:


Oh, oh, that is a different tower from the one I am familiar with!


So, were it mine, I'd start with deleting the solenoid. Adding load to the existing brake light switch would concern me. They are a bear to swap out, just ask...


Yeah, that BW connector is now way up front in the tunnel. Access nigh on to impossible. Had I known, I would have dealt with it when the BW and 4.2 were absent and before the LT1 and 4L60E went in.


So, I resolved N/S and back up with new wires.


1. Ran the ground leg of the starter through the grommet under the
battery to the micro switch.


2. Found the back up lamp switch wire in the driver cheek panel. Spliced in there. found a wire in the console that was hot only with key on. Spliced power in there.


Yes, Alyn, that probably fails to advise the PCM that the transmission is in park or neutral. But, I've noticed no issues with that???


I wonder if S57 is available here on the forum? If no luck, PM me, and I'll scan a page or two from mine.


Carl

 

Sanchez in reply to your question about A/C compressor,... I used a serpentine system from a Camaro ( truck versions are too high)
here is a pic as installed.

 

Carl,... do you have your VSS and EGR hooked up? And do you have the P/N wire from the PCM connected to the shifter ground ?

DO you know the PCM model number (1227730 ?) you are using?

 

Yes, VSS and EGR are connected and working.


Fuzzy on P/N from PCM to shifter ground.


Not aware of PCM number. It came with my LT1 take out from a 94 Cadillac Fleetwood brougham.


Carl

 

I will have to figure out a way to install a P/N switch and reverse lamp switch on my original shifter tower and save the XJS shifter for another project.
My original XJ6 shifter is set up with a Johns cars linkage adapter at the transmission end of the cable. I can select P, R, N, D, 1 an 2 and they all fall in the correct position on the gearshift indicator. I spent a couple of hours adjusting the adapter until all of the gear positions line up perfectly.
The shifter I got was from a 1996 and the microswitches operate as follows:
In 'PARK' both the front and rear microswitches are in the 'OPEN' position
In 'REVERSE' the rear microswitch closes and remains closed through N,D 1 and 2
The front microswitch is open in P and R and closes in D, 1 and 2
The previous pictures will show how the cam is designed.
All I need to do now is the P/N safety switch and reverse lamp switch.
"Where there is a will, there is a way".

 

There are 2 wires to be connected to the shifter ground, the starter relay ground AND the ECM (PCM) P/N sensor wire.

With mine,.. I found where the Green/ Black (starter relay ground) was attached to the XJS shifter (got the shifter from David Boger- EverydayXJ).

I clipped the Green/Black (black/green?) at that ground spot.

Soldered in one end of a resister (diode) to the leftover small piece of wire at that spot.... and then

soldered the other wire,.. the ECM P/N wire to the same spot.

I am using a TBI system with ECM 1227747 and the second wire I soldered was B10 (Orange/black) from the ECM.

On the other end of the diode I reconnected the original Green/black wire from starter relay

So the shifter controls a few things depending on the position it is in.

Cruise control / reverse lights / Starter ground wire / ECM " P/N " wire.

 

@ ALYNMURRAY: I am also going to be using the TBI system with ECM 1227747.
However as stated earlier, I put the engine in and I am running it with a carburetor to work out any and all quirks before I do the switch over to TBI.
Right now, I can select all of my gears and presently do not have the P/N switch nor the reverse lamps hooked up.
Originally, my P/N switch and reverse lamps were controlled by the unit connected to the selector shaft on the BW transmission. So there were no switches at the selector lever.
The four wires for the P/N switch and Reverse lamps are sitting under the car at the top of the transmission.
I need to find those wires somewhere under the center console and once I get the harness up top I may be able to figure it out.
The other option is to figure out a way to install the original switch on the GM transmission selector shaft.
The problem with that is the flat areas of the shaft is too small to fit both the selector lever and the P/N/Reverse lamp switch.
Since I have about 1/2 inch of thread on the shaft, I am thinking that I can get under the car and entend the flat areas another 1/4 inch and that would allow me to install both the P/N/R switch and the selector lever with a 1/4 inch of thread left over for the nut.
I am also trying to figure out how to install at least a P/N switch at the XJ6 selector tower since the XJS tower I got works differently. See previous post.
Right now I am searching for the cause of the problem of high voltage in the car when the engine is running.

 

Sanchez,.. Yes I understand what you are doing. When I pulled the Jag engine/trans I removed the little black box on the Jag trans,..as you said it has 4 wires P/N and reverse lights switch. Like an idiot I snipped the wires dangling from the top of the trans tunnel. But since I had snipped them I had to go hunting in the console for the new location of these wires ... found some and spliced into them and then connected them to the shifter switch. Tried to fish the now snipped ends out from under the A/C climate control unit. Gave up before I could snag other nearby wires by accident and create more work. "Rule of Holes" - when you are in a hole .....stop digging !!
I found the correct wires for the reverse lights near the drivers side of the console way down deep. The starter relay ground I simply ran an extended wire from the starter relay to the same hole and into the cabin into the console and made the connection at the shifter tower.. As for the shifter arm on the trans I used a custom adjustable arm (from Summit racing) so I had another method of adjusting the throw to match the shifter detents..

With a 700r4 there is not much room between the end of the gear selector shaft and the side of the tunnel without hammering it . I got everything to fit using the custom arm (from Summit racing)
.
I think I paid David at EverydayXJ.com less than a hundred for a nice shifter with nice chrome.

Here is another tip: I installed a 90 degree angle gear on the transmission speedo output ..then attached a 20 inch speedo cable which I ran up and over to the center area at the top of the trans,,... (easily visible when looking at the spot where the bell housing / engine meet).
I attached a VSS unit (JTR 2000 PPM pass through style)to the speedo cable. It has 2 wires ...one to ground and one to pin B10 at ECM. Then connected the transducer to it ( V12 XJS unit - because it has the same thread as the 700r4) - (XJS has the GM T400 trans and the transducer threads are GM style) then plugged the new transducer into the factory Jag transducer wiring plug.

I figured out the drive / driven gears ratio in the BW trans and then changed the trans gears in the 700r4 to match so that everything worked accurately.

Hope this helps.

 

I have also installed a 90 degree angle gear. Unlike you, I have not cut those wires. I will try to find those wires up top using my DVOM. I have to get under the car to see what color the wires are. They are very greasy as you are well aware.
One step at a time.
Today, I installed a 330 ohm 1/4 watt resistor in series with the red wire at the tach and it works.

 

Just went thru the same thing on my V12 conversion

The green/brown reverse light wire can be found to the left of the gearshift. Dig down just a little. It's part of a 8 or 10 wire bundle with a flat connector. You see some green wires in the bundle as well. At least one of them is key on 12v supply.

I have up trying to find where the original wires came thru the floorboard. As Alyn says---buried behind the climate control.

I didn't look for the original black/green neutral safety switch wire. From its entry point behind the climate control case I reckon it goes forward and to the left....but, again, I never actually looked for it. I just ran a new wire into the engine bay. I have tons of Jag wiring and was able to keep the color code correct. Just one of those little things that makes me smile

Cheers
DD

 

Yes really all you can do is abandon the factory wiring in the tunnel and run a new or add - on wire, ( if,. like Doug you have some of the same color wire, life is good) connected to starter relay ground (black/green) to shifter ground when in P or N., and then find a "key on = live" green wire - and splice in another piece of green, connect it to reverse light switch on shifter along with the green/brown (shifter to reverse lights) wire. Done!

 

sorry posted same reply twice - fat fingers !!

 

I will have to look for an older model XJS tower. Any idea of the year?
Carl, where is that spacer on the XJ6 tower that I have to remove and install the additional microswitch for P/N?
This is just in case I can't get an XJS tower soon.

 

Looks like I am nt the only one that lost that bundle in the 'cavern" and resorted to the rewire. Works just fine.


Sanchez: My XJ6 shifter with the added backup lamp switch has departed. So, I can't refresh my memory. look at the place where the existing micro switch is. Up front as I recall. Along side is the little spacer. Teeny little nuts and bolts secure each. No wonder the guys at the plant got fussy at times!!!


Now, the XJS shifter has a bung on the left side of the tower. A "green" as I recall the backup lamp switch screws into that bung. The XJ6 shifter is sans that bung.


My Johnscars kit provided the switch and a nut and washer to "clamp in the green switch. probably works.


I think Elinor resolved her back up light issue with a simple switch on the console...Required wires are close by...


Doug:


He,he, I used to scroung old car harnesses and rob them to "enhance" the wires on some of my scratch built cars.


Color codes not a big deal in those years??? I did drawing at times.
Crude and meaningless to anyone but, me in all likelihood!!!l


Exercising my DIY "skils" on another busted piece. A nice electric fan.
Works, but busted at the articulated mount of the motor and blade to the pedestal. Brittle plastic!!! Added two pieces of strap steel to join the two sans articulation. Not enough?? Need a loop around the motor. Duct tape? Plumbers strap? Velcro band? Packing box steel strap would be great, if I had any. I'm determined to get it functional, using what I got.


Yeah, I should just go get another.... Or not, wasteful. or sold out!!!
We are having a heat wave...


Oh, another big fan on a stand just quit... Fix or it's motor might be gone. It was a rescue, fixed by freeing stuck bushings and oiling...
Hmmm, kinda, Jaguar like...


Carl

 

Howdy Folks!
I have not posted for almost a month since I was busy hanging out with my grand kids.
Since their summer vacation is coming to an end, (they go back to school on August 10) I am taking them on a 5-day trip to Canada, Toronto to be exact. Flying into Buffalo, New York on Wednesday and returning to Orlando on Monday. Trip into Canada will be by rental car, doing the tourist thing on my way. Niagara Falls on both sides of the border is on the agenda.
When I get back I will continue work on the car.
So far, the engine is working fine, I will break it in before I do the TBI conversion.
I still haven't gotten around to doing the P/N switch and reverse lamps. Those are the first things on my agenda when I resume work on the car.
However, I did install my 7 inch headlamps and some OEM driving lamps I acquired from Jose. See attached pictures.

 

Sanchez:


1. Awww, the picture of the nose of your car was too dark to admire the 7's. I've gathered kit to do mine. Two MGB buckets. Two Jaguar buckets. Similar, but different. One of each is a tad battered. But, fixable. or one of each???


New 7" Wagner Halogen sealed beams, via Rockauto. Store credit from starter escapade.


7" MGB trim rings. Pristine. Will they fit the Jaguar buckets?


What combination. Bench test in progress.


Hitches:


1. No focus adjustment screws on the MGB buckets.


2. My spare bezels are 5 1/4". Grind out to fit? If so,
how?


? I note your fleet includes an MGB! How are the laps focused???


Tis a very tidy engine bay.


Why not jump to TPI? Same effort. Better results.


I'm sure that is a more than fun trip.


Missing switches on the tower:


You will need parts to get the XJ6 tower to do the Starter interrupt and back up lamp function. An XJS backup lamp switch and an additional micro switch.


Open the console and stare at the shift tower. On the nose is one micro switch. It is the cruise interrupt. Immediately along side is a skinny spacer. Out with it, in with another micro and you have starter
interrupt function.


Jaguar was good at parts interchange.


Now, on the left side of the tower, is an opening. Vacant in SJ6 application. Your XJS reverse lamp switch can go there.


In the XJS configuration, a bung is there for the switch to screw in.


No bung in the XJ6 application. The Johnscar kit solves that With a nut and washer to clamp the backup lamp switch in that opening.


As usual, David Boger can supply parts for either option.


Enjoy....


Carl

 

MGBs had two different styles of headlamp buckets. One that had the inside oval smooth as shown in the picture attached and the other that had the oval with an extruded part towards the front of the oval. This is the type I used. However, either one will work.
The buckets are mounted using the same screw holes that hold the adapter plate for the 5 3/4 headlamps
The second piece (the silver piece at the bottom of the picture) attaches to the bucket.
The headlamp trim rings are attached to this piece to affix the headlamp.
I have heard or read that someone on the forum used a dye grinder to open the 5 3/4 headlamp bezel. I have an extra pair and started to mark the opening for cutting but I was fortunate to acquire a pair from England
As for focusing the headlamps, the bottom of the silver piece is held in place with a spring and the angular slots slide into two spring and screws at the top and one side.
You can use the adjusting mechanism from the headlamp unit you are removing, and install them on the MGB buckets. I was missing one and used one from the headlamp assembly I removed. It was impossible for me to remove the headlamp harness as it was snagged somewhere within the fender well. I cut the headlamp socket out, passed the wires through the bucket hole and soldered it back together.
I will remove the bezels on mine and take some pics.
Carl,You can have these buckets if you so desire. They are complete with the adjusting screws and all. You will have to drill a tiny hole in the bucket to attach the spring from the back of the bucket to the tiny hole on the silver piece.

 

@ Carl; I have all the pieces for the TBI conversion. I just wanted to get all of the other pieces sorted out first before i did the conversion. I have already tested the harness and ECM on my test stand. Now that the engine is installed, I have to lay out the harness, decide where I am putting the ECM then cut the harness to the proper length.
One step at a time. I am looking at adapting a spare Caddy Eldorado air intake box that I have. Cadillac housed their PCM inside the Air Box within the engine compartment. Incoming air kept the PCM cool. Just looking at the different locations for installation.