Sanchez:


1. Graciously accepted. Postage on me, of course.


Carl Hutchins
172 Kendall Road
Walnut Creek, CA
94595


2. I clearly understand the "use what you got" concept.


3. I was so impressed with the finned aluminum housing on my PCM , that I chose to feature rather than hide it, I created straps to suspend it mid bay from the wing braces.


Off to lunch, it is hot around here, getting hotter, and I'm hungry~~


Carl

 

I am off to Canada tomorrow. Have to be at the airport at 5.30 a.m. I will mail the buckets to you when I get back next Monday.
Do you have one of the silver pieces shown at the bottom of the pic. You need that to install the headlamp onto the bucket. If not, when I get back, I will rummage thru my stuff at the warehouse. I am sure I have a second one or two somewhere. I will also drill the hole in the bucket and install the tension springs for you. I have some springs at the warehouse. Take the 7 inch headlamp and center it on the bezel. Use a fine point magic marker, mark and cut carefully. You will lose the two tabs at the bottom of the bezel and the center piece at the top where the vent goes, that is if your bezels have the vent with the wire mesh. I would suggest that you leave the final trimming for after you have the headlamps installed. The original 7 inch bezel fits nice and tight at the bottom.
From what I was told, the adapter plate was added to the car for the 5 3/4 headlamps. 3 screws and the assembly comes out except there is not enough wire to pull it all the way out unless your harness is free from the connection in the engine bay thru the tunnel in the fender. Ingenuity then comes into play.

 

Thank you. At your convenience.


Yes, my bezels have the mesh intake at the top. I was doing "mock ups" and noted that the lugs at the bottom would be gone in any grinding.


When I installed the radiator a decade or so ago, I "lost" the right outboard part of the harness. I created a new lamp to harness bridge.


And yes, the Jaguar buckets "trap" the female socket connector in the lamp cavity. While the MGB buckets are open to the rear. Jaguar body differences from MGB body the reason.


But, our clime is moderate and open to the road from the rear of the MGB buckets not an issue.


Way too hot, even in the garage to do much. Today, merely draw filed on the guide for my old band saw and cleaned and put away an array of tools.


Indoor, studying the workings of my "new to me" toy, an ancient Olympus camera. Lots of "bells and whistles". Most interesting was operation in "point and shoot" mode. My style. But, my card s full. I've others, if only I can remember where I put them so they would not "get lost".


Enjoy the trip..


Carl

 

I took the car for a 20 mile run yesterday and the 350 tranny has to go. I need that 4th gear. So its back to square one.
I have located a 700R4 tranny with the TV cable, so all I have to worry about is the lockup converter. The cheapest rebuilt 700R4 tranny with electronic shift capability I can find is $1100.00. I don't want to spend that kind of money.
The non electronic 700R4 ($450.00)will mean I will only have to worry about engine management when I convert to TBI.
What do you all think??

 

Sanchez:


Mix and match ain't working for you.


1. Not sure a lock up converter and a TV cable managed 700R4 match!!
What governs the "lock up" feature?


2. As you are bound for TPI, the electronic trans and converter
seem the way to go.


3. I think there are "stand alone" management systems for electronic
transmissions, but, in your case, why.


4. The big issue in 350 vs 700 is OD. With the Jaguar final ratio at 2.88, not all that bad.


5. True, as my LT1 and fully electronic 4L60E mate well with the Jaguar 2.88. My OD is .70, same as the 700!!!


Band saw fixed and on line. Messing with 'mix and match" 5 1/4's to 7's. Wires and screws... Jag buckets or MGB buckets ???


Carl

 

lockup is controlled by an electrical pressure switch at a port on the passenger side of the transmission and is unlocked via the brake switch.
I am not willing to part with $1100.00 for a electronic transmission even though I am converting to fuel injection. If I were to get one cheaper, I would do so.
The gear change is controlled via a Throttle Valve cable which controls line pressure. No electronics to deal with within the transmission.
Just a change in the name. The 700R4 got the name change to 4L60 in the early 90s and then became the 4L60E when they added electronics to control the shift points.
Just trying to save some money.
Like I said in my earlier post, I can get the same results with less money and less electrical connections, and do only the engine management via the ECM.
Carl. BTW: I will mail MGB buckets to you sometime next week.

 

Sanchez do yourself a favor.. go to wrecking yard and buy a 700R4 from a ASTRO van.

Figure it out, the ASTRO van weighs 3880 lbs the Jag weighs 4000
pretty close ...AStro van rear diff ratio is 3.08 and Jag is 2.88 again pretty close
The guys over at the ASTRO/SAFARI website have a section on putting a 350 into and ASTRO van, most guys use the 7004 that was is the ASTRO.


The 700r4 is the earlier model of the 4l60 and uses switches and TV cable to control shifts.lock up controlled by ECM...rhe 4l60e is the same trans just controlled by later model PCM, an electronically controlled trans.

I used the 700r4 from an Astro van, the ECM (needed a new ASDU chip) and the harness , .drop in.. 700r4 are simply to rebuild but you do need a few special tools to release some of the locking rings and the ability to compress the drum to release some springs deep inside the trans. There is a good DVD you can buy :How to rebuild the 700r4 trans"

 

Thanks Alyn. I will visit the salvage yards and see what I find.

 

Sanchez:


1. MGB buckets. At your convenience. Band saw fixed and purring.
Front "pasture" mowed. Got the fussy lawn mower going by dumping the old 'fuel" and giving it a fresh load of that lousy E10. A few tall stalks survived. Weed whacker one or weed whacker two??


Commenced "mowing" rear pasture. I need a reaper!!!! Using hedge trimmer, weed whacker and now mower to recapture that prairie!!


2. Allyn & Sanchez: 700R morphed into 460L, then 460LE. The latter managed by the same PCM that manages the LT1 engines.
I understand the budget issue, loud and clear....


Great matches. My donor car was the last big Cadillac. 94 Fleetwood Brougham!! I'm not sure of it's weight, but probably in the same range as my 83. The donor car's rear ratio was/is 3.09. Durn close to
the 2.88 in my Jaguar. And it's LT1 is tuned for torque rather than HP. Perfect match. Cruises effortlessly at freeway speeds, yet the throttle response is more than adequate.


The durn thing will probably go much faster than I'll ever drive it at...


Oil & filter for the Jaguar either today or tomorrow. Ugh, laundry in the machine....


Carl

 

Questions to all:
RECAP: Mechanical- Using a JohnsCars kit
1993 Chevy Engine with older 4 barrel intake manifold installed.
GM TH350 transmission and external trans cooler installed.
New Radiator and 2 e-fans installed.
ELECTRICAL:
Using JohnsCars 6 wire harness from the passenger side of the car, I have the following connected.
Coolant Temperature Sending unit
12v to HEI Distributor
Alternator light and gauge
Oil pressure light.
I ran a separate single wire from the tach signal off the HEI distributor to the red wire at the back of the Jaguar tachometer with a 330 ohm resistor in series.
Coming off the 6 wire connector I have two wires that are not connected and I also have 2 components that are not connected through this harness.
1) Oil pressure gauge and 2) the tachometer to which I connected with a single wire as stated above.
The two wires I have that are not connected are one black and one white with a brown stripe.
Does anyone who have used the JohnsCars 6 wire harness tell me where the two wires connect to?
And, can I use the original Jaguar canister type oil sending unit for oil gauge operation?
Thank you for your input.

 

Hey Sanchez..

In my car I re used the Jaguar oil pressure sending unit on the GM engine. I look at it like this: the oil pressure sending unit and the dash gauge are a matched pair BUT you need an "adapter" because the Jag sending unit has some strange threads on it, that are not the same as the GM threads. I used a brass "T" so that I could have the GM oil pressure switch /"idiot" light and the oil pressure gauge sending unit,.. getting "pressure" readings from the back of the GM engine near the distributor. The "adapter" I purchased ($ 5.00) at a small company here in Seattle that stock all kinds of fittings. I used the Jaguar water temp sending unit on the GM engine and used a copper washer to stop any leaks (threads are a bit different as well., close but different)

The wire that is WSU (white/slate/blue) is the wire that is connected to coil NEG and sends a signal to the TACH. There should also be a wire in the Jaguar portion of this bundle that is used to engage the A/C compressor (Grn/Brown ?)

In my car I used the thick white wire from the inertia switch , to trigger the Main relay and then on to the coil to run the engine. The smaller white wire that was originally at the front inner fenderwell (right side) and used to be connected to coil - I reused for a heated O2 sensor. White circuit are all HOT in run/start. Pos 2and 3 on ign switch.

Hope this helps.

 

Just wondering what others are doing with their lumps and the oil pressure senders/ oil pressure switch on GM V8 engines.
I am using the Jag oil pressure sender from the old Jag engine and by using an adapter I can use the "in dash" original Jag oil pressure gauge. But with the GM 350 TBI engine I already have a sending unit that ties into the TBI ECM ( oil pressure causes this sender to close and complete the circuit and tells the ECM the engine is running. All fine and good. The "problem" is that there is a lot of "oil pressure" plumbing at the rear of the engine. I have a 2 inch high brass tube coming from the small hole in the top rear of the block near the distributor, and then a Tee and then one more piece of brass that holds the old Jag sender and another that the GM sender is attached to.

Looks really like a Rube Goldberg contraption and I am concerned about its viability and it is a spot for something to go wrong. So I am asking what others have done to their lumps when solving the oil pressure sender problem TIA

 

Alyn,
Nix is set up much like yours; an adapter threads into the back of the block, into which 2 diaphragm switches are threaded.

The yellow arrow in the picture below indicates the idiot light sender with a red/something wire (on my car anyway), the green arrow indicates the pressure diaphragm with the largish white/tracer wire which feeds the dash gauge.


(';')

 

Thanks LnrB it is the small things like this (when swapping in a GM engine) that have to be engineered and installed so that they do what they are supposed to do. I suppose.... it sitting there out of the way....as long as it does not leak oil.... 'never know might work forever ... Next on the "revisit" list is the purge valve and thermo time switch. Finally found a solution I liked for the efan control thermo switch,... found a GM thermostat housing with a threaded port that can accept a temperature switch, just what I needed for the trigger wire to the efan relay. Installing new plug wires that run down the back of the engine and under the rams horn manifolds Bit of a job cutting them then threading them around behind the motor mounts and installed sparkplug boot heat shields. Been a few busy days..

 

here is how I did mine. In the second pic showing the oil gauge/light connections I have a single black wire that comes from the six wire harness. I don't know where it connects to.
So far, the following are connected and working.
Ignition, Tach, coolant, oil light and gauge. AC compressor.
The connector terminal on the oil gauge unit broke off so I just soldered a jumper on it to get it working.
I still have to install the cowl for my e-fans. Like Alyn I am going to use a sensor which I have on the thermostat housing to control the e-fans.
One picture shows how I keep the spark plug wires away from the exhaust manifold.
AC still not working. My helper (son) cross threaded the line from the compressor to the condenser. Waiting on David at Everyday XJ to return next week to get a condenser and hose.

 

My Johnscars kit had a big brass adapter. Three points. One to the GM engine where the GM idiot sensor was. Center rear. One to the Jaguar
Guage sensor. the other to the jaguar idiot light sensor.


At one time, and I'm fuzzy, a very small male coupler/adapter was included. When I was messing with it, it just busted. I had a Sun Pro
sensor, a biggish diaphragm unit. It can double for the Jaguar unit just dandy.


Wow, I dodged one. Could've busted on the road. Simplified the "Christmas tree" aka "plumber's nightmare". Much better.


Carl

 

Too much hanging on that teeny little brass coupler.


Carl

 

agree, i have seen those brass tubes break off, from vibration or poor installation!

i have run a small hi pressure,oil proof flexible hose, with steel ends, up to where easy to get at and sometimes a small aluminum manifold with more than needed outlets.

gives choice a new meaning .

 

HMM, no shroud, ??

 

i use a 1990 Van ,700R4 trans with cable TV, works great , been 21yrs, and i abuse more than i should but performance is fun and show off goes with it!

someday i may grow up, but not quite yet!