Fuel injection in Jaguars with Lumps
#1
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My plan is to convert my 1971 Jaguar that has a ZZ4 383 crate motor and Q Jet carb to fuel injection. I would like to get consistent AFR all year long
and better starting and stopping conditions... plus any related improved fuel economy that would be possible.
My engine was specified to work with 87 octane fuel and made 410 HP on the engine dyno with 470# torque.. it works really well with the carb now but as the
temps change... starting and shutting off conditions change.
I worked with the best carb guy around and we have the AFR (have a wideband gauge mounted in the ski slope now) at 15.2 when going steady
down the highway and around 14.5-14.7 at idle to make it the smoothest at 750 rpm. Have no idea of AFR at WOT as I am busy when the throttle is floored..
My current plan is to use a Edelbrock surge tank, number 3607, with a FAST EFI kit, #30407 and retain my stock Pertronix Flamethrower distributor at least initially. After the conversion I may use the FAST Distributor that would control the timing with their FI ECU. I am using the FAST EFI instead of the Edelbrock Street EFI because they need a different (MSD stuff) distributor to get the needed clean signal. I would use the FAST trans cable connection kit to hook up my 200R TV cable to the new base.
My Jag tanks are new and I have a Pollak (3) port electric tank changeover valve and the fuel would come from the filters in the spare tire area - forward to the GM mechanical fuel pump (as it does now) ... into the surge tank mounted on right side behind the radiator and near the Jag horn relay area. With the GM conversion there is lots of room on either side for the surge tank as you can see from the dimensions below. It has a high pressure fuel pump inside that would feed the fuel injection
and return the fuel back.
Having changed tanks in my other Lump conversion, I do not relish going to all that trouble again since I have new tanks already. I have a set of good used clean
S3 tanks but will now sell them to someone that needs them. Using them in my car would require new filler caps for the use of these later tanks. I could use mew Spectra S1/S2 tanks again and not have to change my fuel filler caps but the surge tank is cheaper than two tanks and easier.
Looking for any thoughts or problems I might have missed in my planning?
All this will happen after finishing up the interior changes (PT Cruiser front seats that are electric up/down and heated) and the adding of sound insulation inside the car on the floors and in the doors.. that project is underway. I need to have the seats reupholstered to match the rest of the seats and door panels that are done in Mercedes
material.. currently the seats are Black with Red inserts and that is a little much for a Jaguar.
and better starting and stopping conditions... plus any related improved fuel economy that would be possible.
My engine was specified to work with 87 octane fuel and made 410 HP on the engine dyno with 470# torque.. it works really well with the carb now but as the
temps change... starting and shutting off conditions change.
I worked with the best carb guy around and we have the AFR (have a wideband gauge mounted in the ski slope now) at 15.2 when going steady
down the highway and around 14.5-14.7 at idle to make it the smoothest at 750 rpm. Have no idea of AFR at WOT as I am busy when the throttle is floored..
My current plan is to use a Edelbrock surge tank, number 3607, with a FAST EFI kit, #30407 and retain my stock Pertronix Flamethrower distributor at least initially. After the conversion I may use the FAST Distributor that would control the timing with their FI ECU. I am using the FAST EFI instead of the Edelbrock Street EFI because they need a different (MSD stuff) distributor to get the needed clean signal. I would use the FAST trans cable connection kit to hook up my 200R TV cable to the new base.
My Jag tanks are new and I have a Pollak (3) port electric tank changeover valve and the fuel would come from the filters in the spare tire area - forward to the GM mechanical fuel pump (as it does now) ... into the surge tank mounted on right side behind the radiator and near the Jag horn relay area. With the GM conversion there is lots of room on either side for the surge tank as you can see from the dimensions below. It has a high pressure fuel pump inside that would feed the fuel injection
and return the fuel back.
Having changed tanks in my other Lump conversion, I do not relish going to all that trouble again since I have new tanks already. I have a set of good used clean
S3 tanks but will now sell them to someone that needs them. Using them in my car would require new filler caps for the use of these later tanks. I could use mew Spectra S1/S2 tanks again and not have to change my fuel filler caps but the surge tank is cheaper than two tanks and easier.
Looking for any thoughts or problems I might have missed in my planning?
All this will happen after finishing up the interior changes (PT Cruiser front seats that are electric up/down and heated) and the adding of sound insulation inside the car on the floors and in the doors.. that project is underway. I need to have the seats reupholstered to match the rest of the seats and door panels that are done in Mercedes
material.. currently the seats are Black with Red inserts and that is a little much for a Jaguar.
Last edited by Roger Mabry; 02-06-2015 at 07:54 PM.
#2
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Good plan, whats the cam specs?
Wide open throttle AFR is important for best power. Every engine is different but an AFR in the low 13's is usually idea for WOT RBP.
A few thoughts. I guess I'm not a fan of Edelbrock products...
I really like the GM OEM ECMs from 86 to 92. They have a good mix of simplicity, integration, reliability and capability. They come in two flavors, a hot wire MAF and speed density using a MAP sensor. When you use a GM OEM ECM you get some features that may be useful. See the list below of the feature using the GM 1227165 ECM. Other more creative and capable than me have rewired the EGR to control nitrous and other features.
1. TCC logic for the transmission. The ECM does all the calculations on when the TCC should be on and off much more intelligently than a simple vacuum and brake switch or other cobled together simple circuit.
2. Cooling fan logic, The ECM signals a relay directly to turn cooling fans on at a particular temp and off at a particular temp.
3. Speed limit. I've got mine set at 120 for safety sake. My 406 gets there in a jiffy way before I think to lift.
4. Closed loop and Block learning for good economy and power.
5. Lean cruise mode. The ECM has a lean cruise mode that occurs under light throttle cruise conditions. My AFR's go up to 17.3 when the TCC is locked up and cruising... as soon as you tip in the throttle lean cruise is canceled and it richens up.
6. RPM limiting, I've got my set to 7200. My engine stop making power at 6800.
7. A/C compressor logic. At 75% throttle the A/C cuts out for additional power.
8. Good Idle air and cold start logic.
GM used ECM is 80$ on ebay, wiring harness from Fuel injection Connection is $300. $150 for a standard TPI intake. Add another $200 for Moats eprom emulator and other chip programming stuff using a laptop. In my opinion no cheaper or better way to run Fuel injection with ignition timing logic. I use the MAF setup because it's easier to tune for me. The 1227165 ECM uses the MAF to meter the incoming air and goes alpha N at WOT so it can work with very aggressive cams and large motors. Because of the MAF it can be tuned to offer great drivabilty at low RPM with amazing throttle response too. You can also run a port fuel injection monifold like the Holley Stealth Ram or stock type TPI. Stock GM TPI with its long 22inch harmonic inducing runners on a 383 makes 500Ft/lbs of off idle neck snapping torque with a mild cam and average heads. You're not gunna get that from a carb style dual plane manifold and a FAST EFI system that will cost at least double to install.
Wide open throttle AFR is important for best power. Every engine is different but an AFR in the low 13's is usually idea for WOT RBP.
A few thoughts. I guess I'm not a fan of Edelbrock products...
I really like the GM OEM ECMs from 86 to 92. They have a good mix of simplicity, integration, reliability and capability. They come in two flavors, a hot wire MAF and speed density using a MAP sensor. When you use a GM OEM ECM you get some features that may be useful. See the list below of the feature using the GM 1227165 ECM. Other more creative and capable than me have rewired the EGR to control nitrous and other features.
1. TCC logic for the transmission. The ECM does all the calculations on when the TCC should be on and off much more intelligently than a simple vacuum and brake switch or other cobled together simple circuit.
2. Cooling fan logic, The ECM signals a relay directly to turn cooling fans on at a particular temp and off at a particular temp.
3. Speed limit. I've got mine set at 120 for safety sake. My 406 gets there in a jiffy way before I think to lift.
4. Closed loop and Block learning for good economy and power.
5. Lean cruise mode. The ECM has a lean cruise mode that occurs under light throttle cruise conditions. My AFR's go up to 17.3 when the TCC is locked up and cruising... as soon as you tip in the throttle lean cruise is canceled and it richens up.
6. RPM limiting, I've got my set to 7200. My engine stop making power at 6800.
7. A/C compressor logic. At 75% throttle the A/C cuts out for additional power.
8. Good Idle air and cold start logic.
GM used ECM is 80$ on ebay, wiring harness from Fuel injection Connection is $300. $150 for a standard TPI intake. Add another $200 for Moats eprom emulator and other chip programming stuff using a laptop. In my opinion no cheaper or better way to run Fuel injection with ignition timing logic. I use the MAF setup because it's easier to tune for me. The 1227165 ECM uses the MAF to meter the incoming air and goes alpha N at WOT so it can work with very aggressive cams and large motors. Because of the MAF it can be tuned to offer great drivabilty at low RPM with amazing throttle response too. You can also run a port fuel injection monifold like the Holley Stealth Ram or stock type TPI. Stock GM TPI with its long 22inch harmonic inducing runners on a 383 makes 500Ft/lbs of off idle neck snapping torque with a mild cam and average heads. You're not gunna get that from a carb style dual plane manifold and a FAST EFI system that will cost at least double to install.
Last edited by icsamerica; 02-06-2015 at 08:28 PM.
#3
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Cam is Comp CS-270H-10R with Crane 1.6 rockers and Edelbrock aluminum heads #60909. Duration @ .050 Intake is 215 and Exhaust 215 and lobe separation is 110 and Gross lift is 500/500. The cam allows 15+ inches of manifold at idle to run the PB etc and the idle is mild.
Bow Tie 200R Overdrive has almost stock converter speed with Stage 5 innards and the car now has 2:88 LSD gears... it pulls them very well because of the low rpm torque.
Dyno WOT at 5600 rpm was 12.78... torque was above 400# from 2000 RPM with max at 472# at 4000. Performance is great and it lifts
the front of the body up enough on takeoff that my friend gets "vertigo"! Plus, the SWB S1 is lighter than the later Jaguars and the front of this car
has large amount of aluminum parts, heads, radiator etc and the engine is back in the car... it handles well. It has the Vintage Air Front Runner
accessory system that creates lots of room in the front and is lighter as well. Headers have been removed for Corvette Ram Horns since the picture was taken..
The idea on the engine was low end toque and mild idle to run on the street... not a racing engine at all. It was a new ZZ4 383 short block and the cam and heads were added and run on the dyno for proof of concept.
Cost is being considered but the late model FI FAST conversion offers E85 use, Nitrous (if I want) and ease of installation. The FAST ECU runs the fans and AC as well, if desired. That has all been taken care of now on this car. You can set a RPM limiter if desired...plus it has adaptive learning of the fuel/air tables as you drive. It uses a Bluetooth handheld "reader" to allow changes done manually or to observe. Plus, it is modern NEW stuff, sometimes you get more by paying more.
I investigated Edelbrocks injection line and talked to their Tech people, they do not seem to be as sophisticated as others out there and their distributor limits seemed odd when others could make theirs work well...
I will add another bung for the additional 02 sensor and leave the one in place for the wide band AFR already in the car... duplicate information for a while is good.
We never tried to get higher AFR ratios in cruise mode... reading the plugs as we went along showed everything was still OK (rich enough not to cause problems) and we just "stopped" tuning.
Bow Tie 200R Overdrive has almost stock converter speed with Stage 5 innards and the car now has 2:88 LSD gears... it pulls them very well because of the low rpm torque.
Dyno WOT at 5600 rpm was 12.78... torque was above 400# from 2000 RPM with max at 472# at 4000. Performance is great and it lifts
the front of the body up enough on takeoff that my friend gets "vertigo"! Plus, the SWB S1 is lighter than the later Jaguars and the front of this car
has large amount of aluminum parts, heads, radiator etc and the engine is back in the car... it handles well. It has the Vintage Air Front Runner
accessory system that creates lots of room in the front and is lighter as well. Headers have been removed for Corvette Ram Horns since the picture was taken..
The idea on the engine was low end toque and mild idle to run on the street... not a racing engine at all. It was a new ZZ4 383 short block and the cam and heads were added and run on the dyno for proof of concept.
Cost is being considered but the late model FI FAST conversion offers E85 use, Nitrous (if I want) and ease of installation. The FAST ECU runs the fans and AC as well, if desired. That has all been taken care of now on this car. You can set a RPM limiter if desired...plus it has adaptive learning of the fuel/air tables as you drive. It uses a Bluetooth handheld "reader" to allow changes done manually or to observe. Plus, it is modern NEW stuff, sometimes you get more by paying more.
I investigated Edelbrocks injection line and talked to their Tech people, they do not seem to be as sophisticated as others out there and their distributor limits seemed odd when others could make theirs work well...
I will add another bung for the additional 02 sensor and leave the one in place for the wide band AFR already in the car... duplicate information for a while is good.
We never tried to get higher AFR ratios in cruise mode... reading the plugs as we went along showed everything was still OK (rich enough not to cause problems) and we just "stopped" tuning.
Last edited by Roger Mabry; 02-07-2015 at 05:35 PM.
#4
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That mild single pattern cam with narrow LSA and mild heads screams TPI to me. The tall gears also adds to the case. The 85 to 92 Corvette had TPI as you probably know and had a lower rear end ration of 2.73:1 so it's very compatible with your 2.88:1 and if you ever upgraded to a 3.31 you'd need steam rollers out back.
Testing has shown the stock TPI is maxed out 410HP but capable of 500+ Ft/lbs of torque. Stock units have been ported for more flow and tested to 450HP. That's right in line with the capability of your heads. You'd also have a 1800 to 4500 RPM power band and that should be right in line with the stock converter and governor in the TH200R4
In case you haven't noticed I love TPI. The first time I let my father drive my 85' corvette he wasn't prepared to the torque and I'll never forget how his neck snapped back as he pressed the accelerator. As for reliability, those older GM ECU are bullet proof.
Testing has shown the stock TPI is maxed out 410HP but capable of 500+ Ft/lbs of torque. Stock units have been ported for more flow and tested to 450HP. That's right in line with the capability of your heads. You'd also have a 1800 to 4500 RPM power band and that should be right in line with the stock converter and governor in the TH200R4
In case you haven't noticed I love TPI. The first time I let my father drive my 85' corvette he wasn't prepared to the torque and I'll never forget how his neck snapped back as he pressed the accelerator. As for reliability, those older GM ECU are bullet proof.
Last edited by icsamerica; 02-07-2015 at 02:46 PM.
#5
#6
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
"This universal fuel sump system will provide the necessary high fuel pressure required for most EFI applications in vehicles originally designed
with carbureted fuel systems. For ease of installation, the factory carbureted fuel system will be used in conjunction with the universal fuel sump
system. This works by feeding the fuel sump, at standard Carb pressure (7 PSI max), using the factory fuel tank and mechanical fuel pump or
low pressure electric fuel pump. The sump will house a high pressure fuel pump, regulator and internal bypass. This will allow the desired fuel
pressure (#3605/36052 - 58 PSI, #3607 - 49 PSI) necessary to adequately operate EFI systems; all without the need for a fuel return line."
The installation instructions show a connection to a charcoal canister, vent or back to the tank... fuel caps must be open type.
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/.../3000/3605.pdf
I will use the #3607 kit that has the lower pressure since the EFI kit only needs 43lbs of pressure and the regulator will
control the difference.
I took out 3:31 gears for this install - traded them for the 2:88's and both of us were happy. 1750 rpm in OD at 70 mph...
I see no "holes" in the logic (cost is not the biggest consideration) on this proposed installation??
with carbureted fuel systems. For ease of installation, the factory carbureted fuel system will be used in conjunction with the universal fuel sump
system. This works by feeding the fuel sump, at standard Carb pressure (7 PSI max), using the factory fuel tank and mechanical fuel pump or
low pressure electric fuel pump. The sump will house a high pressure fuel pump, regulator and internal bypass. This will allow the desired fuel
pressure (#3605/36052 - 58 PSI, #3607 - 49 PSI) necessary to adequately operate EFI systems; all without the need for a fuel return line."
The installation instructions show a connection to a charcoal canister, vent or back to the tank... fuel caps must be open type.
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/.../3000/3605.pdf
I will use the #3607 kit that has the lower pressure since the EFI kit only needs 43lbs of pressure and the regulator will
control the difference.
I took out 3:31 gears for this install - traded them for the 2:88's and both of us were happy. 1750 rpm in OD at 70 mph...
I see no "holes" in the logic (cost is not the biggest consideration) on this proposed installation??
Last edited by Roger Mabry; 02-07-2015 at 05:36 PM.
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