Fuel Odor In Trunk and Marine-spec Fuel Hose
#21
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Location: Walnut Creek, California
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1.It was not reverse engineering or a return of memory, merely dumb luck. I got my band saw back in service. Masking tape to hold on one wheel while I located the blade on the other. Two knobs on the upper part. One to adjust blade tension. the other to secure the adjus0tment. And three guides. One odd long one. Worm to a nubbin, but,. enough. left. Steel on plastic rubbing !!! I'll bet Delta's version was better..
2. Alas, those round ports. are not ports at all. Merely raised steel. Just stiffeners!!
Doug posted that a time ago!!
3. I've a drop cloth. An HF thing. Just for lying on ones back in the cold or messy.
Son appreciated it, when he swapped in the pump sensor module in my Jeep's fuel tank.
4. I saw a You tube show. Tow truck operator Johnathan Winans of Cameron North
Carolina use two sheets of cardboard, as Elinor suggests, One to lie on and the other across his belly as he hoisted an auto trans onto the engine of A GM 4x4 pickup!!!
5. Decadesa go, a lister on another forum described the use of a small computer fan in the boot, just over the holes in the floor. Power ventilation!!! I've such a fan in my "junk tray". Install ?
Carl
2. Alas, those round ports. are not ports at all. Merely raised steel. Just stiffeners!!
Doug posted that a time ago!!
3. I've a drop cloth. An HF thing. Just for lying on ones back in the cold or messy.
Son appreciated it, when he swapped in the pump sensor module in my Jeep's fuel tank.
4. I saw a You tube show. Tow truck operator Johnathan Winans of Cameron North
Carolina use two sheets of cardboard, as Elinor suggests, One to lie on and the other across his belly as he hoisted an auto trans onto the engine of A GM 4x4 pickup!!!
5. Decadesa go, a lister on another forum described the use of a small computer fan in the boot, just over the holes in the floor. Power ventilation!!! I've such a fan in my "junk tray". Install ?
Carl
#22
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ronbros (05-28-2019)
#23
I have a 4'x4' square of old deep pile carpet. Nice and soft and I can shake it out or vacuum when necessary. I was working on the speedometer gear on the transmission and quit for the night with the gear out and the carpet under the car. Next morning it was soaked with transmission fluid. Needless to say I had to get a new piece of carpet.
#24
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#25
Hi, great ideas on the low perm hoses, another thing added to my "to do list" wish list. As far as fresh air going into the trunk, is that not what the "cowbell" flaps / vents are for ? Also thought that was part of the reasoning behind the HVAC system using outside air all the time except when off or under max load ? As well as keeping the cabin free of exhaust fumes maybe ?
Cheers,
Brian
Cheers,
Brian
#26
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Hi, great ideas on the low perm hoses, another thing added to my "to do list" wish list. As far as fresh air going into the trunk, is that not what the "cowbell" flaps / vents are for ? Also thought that was part of the reasoning behind the HVAC system using outside air all the time except when off or under max load ? As well as keeping the cabin free of exhaust fumes maybe ?
Cheers,
Brian
Cheers,
Brian
I think the rationale behind the cowbell flaps to to give stale cabin air exit point...thus easing the entry of fresh outside air. I don't think the system is intended to actually ventilate the trunk...although it might well occur to some degree if the car is moving fast enough for the underbody vents/drain to give a pull-thru effect in concert with the higher pressure air entering thru the flaps from the cabin.
But, OTOH, flow-thru to the fuel pump area ......where most of the odor would occur...... is pretty well blocked-off by the trunk floor.
Years ago one fellow installed a tiny 12v fan under the trunk floor and, as I recall, claimed success.
Cheers
DD
#27
yes the vents at the rear windshield cowl are for exiting not incoming air.
The entire assembly is also a catch pan for water. Where does water come in through? No clue. Must be through those same vents.
to remove and clean the catch pan you must remove the sunroof motor, and to remove the sunroof motor you must remove the carboard finisher over the sunroof motor AND then the entire rear seat. A week's worth of work.
that pan gets full of leaves, insects, mold, you name it. I have removed it twice. A total pain, but if you have a moldy odor inside the car, you need to check that catchpan.
There are 8 nuts and studs holding it to the under cowl. Plus a sticky sealant all over its edges. And there are two drain hoses, one on each side.
I painted the inside of the catch pan with that SEAL ALL black paint?? As Seen On TV. You can now get it at Walmart.
The entire assembly is also a catch pan for water. Where does water come in through? No clue. Must be through those same vents.
to remove and clean the catch pan you must remove the sunroof motor, and to remove the sunroof motor you must remove the carboard finisher over the sunroof motor AND then the entire rear seat. A week's worth of work.
that pan gets full of leaves, insects, mold, you name it. I have removed it twice. A total pain, but if you have a moldy odor inside the car, you need to check that catchpan.
There are 8 nuts and studs holding it to the under cowl. Plus a sticky sealant all over its edges. And there are two drain hoses, one on each side.
I painted the inside of the catch pan with that SEAL ALL black paint?? As Seen On TV. You can now get it at Walmart.
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LT1 jaguar (06-01-2019)
#28
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#30
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I spoke too soon. A small whiff of gasoline odor is appearing again.
I think the low-perm hoses made a difference and still recommend them for this area of the car....but something else is afoot in my case. The smell is so faint I'm not really sure I can precisely trace it. I may revisit the issue down the road.
Or not
Cheers
DD
#31
#32
Fuel odors in the trunk are not unusual on these cars....and the XJS as well. My '85 has had a 'trace' odor; not pungent...but still, its there. I finally decided to have a whirl at repairing it. I'll mention right up front that I replaced all the fuel hoses a few years ago....using Dayco fuel injection hose, automotive grade, from the local parts store.
It's beginning to look like that was the problem.
Using my high-tech sniffer (that is, my nose) I easily determined that the vent hoses going to-and-from the condensation canisters were odor free. The odor was definitely coming from the area of the supply hoses under the trunk floor.
I had heard of "low permeability" fuel hose for marine applications, did some Googling, and came across "SAE J1527 Barrier Hose". This standard has several rating levels. I went with A1-15 and A1-10 hose. "Ultra Low" permeability (the "10" and "15") and high fire resistance (the "A1"). It is rated for a working pressure of 100 psi and burst pressure of 400 psi. The idea is to keep the boat bilge as vapor-free as possible. You can Google for more technical info.
I noticed right away that the hose is obviously thicker-walled than automotive hose, due, presumably, to the additional barrier layers. I also vaguely recall the the original Jaguar hose was thick-walled as well, although the J1527 didn't exist in the 80s.
Anyhow, I installed it 3 days ago and am fairly confident that the problem is solved. No odor so far. A few more days with the trunk lid closed will be the real test. As I mentioned, the odor was slight, so I'm giving it a few days to see (or should I say "smell"?) if any odor develops over time.
I'll also mention that I'm not implying that the Dayco F.I. hose was defective in any way. It's just that it is designed to a different standard, without "ultra-low permeability" in mind.
I used Trident brand but other manufacturers have their own offerings meeting the same standard.
Cheers
DD
It's beginning to look like that was the problem.
Using my high-tech sniffer (that is, my nose) I easily determined that the vent hoses going to-and-from the condensation canisters were odor free. The odor was definitely coming from the area of the supply hoses under the trunk floor.
I had heard of "low permeability" fuel hose for marine applications, did some Googling, and came across "SAE J1527 Barrier Hose". This standard has several rating levels. I went with A1-15 and A1-10 hose. "Ultra Low" permeability (the "10" and "15") and high fire resistance (the "A1"). It is rated for a working pressure of 100 psi and burst pressure of 400 psi. The idea is to keep the boat bilge as vapor-free as possible. You can Google for more technical info.
I noticed right away that the hose is obviously thicker-walled than automotive hose, due, presumably, to the additional barrier layers. I also vaguely recall the the original Jaguar hose was thick-walled as well, although the J1527 didn't exist in the 80s.
Anyhow, I installed it 3 days ago and am fairly confident that the problem is solved. No odor so far. A few more days with the trunk lid closed will be the real test. As I mentioned, the odor was slight, so I'm giving it a few days to see (or should I say "smell"?) if any odor develops over time.
I'll also mention that I'm not implying that the Dayco F.I. hose was defective in any way. It's just that it is designed to a different standard, without "ultra-low permeability" in mind.
I used Trident brand but other manufacturers have their own offerings meeting the same standard.
Cheers
DD
#33
Regarding fixing the cowbell sound, I’m not clear if this post addresses how to fix it. I hear that loud sound from the rear flaps when I close a door with the windows closed. If a window is open, no cowbells.
Is there a post post on how to fix this? If it’s a big project, I’d just live with the sound. But if it isn’t...
Is there a post post on how to fix this? If it’s a big project, I’d just live with the sound. But if it isn’t...
#34
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#35
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Regarding fixing the cowbell sound, I’m not clear if this post addresses how to fix it. I hear that loud sound from the rear flaps when I close a door with the windows closed. If a window is open, no cowbells.
Is there a post post on how to fix this? If it’s a big project, I’d just live with the sound. But if it isn’t...
Is there a post post on how to fix this? If it’s a big project, I’d just live with the sound. But if it isn’t...
I've certainly had no other car make that sound.
(';')
#36
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In a nutshell..........
The cowbell flaps are #7 in this illustration.
https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/u...r-parcel-shelf
There is foam padding on the edges to silence them as they 'flap'. The foam flakes off, leaving the metal flaps to clang.
You'll have to remove the extractor plenum (#6 in the illustration) for the repair....which is simply a matter of gluing on new foam (or felt, or whatever strikes your fancy)
Cheers
DD
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XJDanny (06-25-2019)
#37
it is a big job, lots of stuff has to be removed, the "pan" does not come off without removing the sunroof motor first, and the sunroof motor does not come off without removing the entire rear seat first.
and the horizontal upholstery panel in the trunk must come off
it is a maintenance job. Every car needs it every 15 or 20 years.
and you need to have the foam rubber pads in advance. Go to Joann's Fabrics, or Michael's, buy the stick-on foam rubber pads. Also at Family Dollar they have stick-on pads but they are not black foam rubber, they are furniture pads.
also repaint the inside of the pan with a waterproof truck bed coating. Water puddles in there and you get moldy odors inside the car depending on your climate.
if you're going to do the job, do it complete.
and the horizontal upholstery panel in the trunk must come off
it is a maintenance job. Every car needs it every 15 or 20 years.
and you need to have the foam rubber pads in advance. Go to Joann's Fabrics, or Michael's, buy the stick-on foam rubber pads. Also at Family Dollar they have stick-on pads but they are not black foam rubber, they are furniture pads.
also repaint the inside of the pan with a waterproof truck bed coating. Water puddles in there and you get moldy odors inside the car depending on your climate.
if you're going to do the job, do it complete.
Last edited by Jose; 06-25-2019 at 02:49 PM.
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XJDanny (06-25-2019)
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