Hello,

Once again I'm back to pick the very kind and knowledgeable brains of the forum-goers; thank you in advance again, everybody here is very helpful to a novice such as myself.

I have a 1985 XJ6 series 3, and need to replace one, possibly both, of the corroded fuel tanks. The thing I'm not sure about when looking for the parts is whether this model carries an immersed, or a remote fuel pump?

Any know-how on this information would be greatly appreciated, as it's to be our wedding car next month, and at this rate I'm worrying I won't have it ready in time!

Best wishes,
Robbie.

 

External fuel pump/s, just aft of the spare wheel, behind that trim panel.

 

Thanks Grant, really appreciate the help buddy.

Best wishes.
Robbie.

 

yes, one fuel pump. located under the removable square panel where the spare tire is.

remove the panel and the spare tire to see it.

each tank has a fuel level assembly mounted from the rear of the tank. Remove each taillight lens and then remove each light assembly and then you can see a round cap with wires connected to it. Disconnect the wires marking first where they go; You need a brass punch to remove the cap, to avoid any spark which could result in an explosion of gas vapors.

the Service Manual states to de-pressurize the fuel system first, follow the instructions to avoid any fuel injection system problems later.

 

New Series 3 fuel tanks are available off the shelf from several UK suppliers.

Having done it, I can tell you that these tanks can be difficult to remove as you need to remove the 1/4 bumpers and 1/4 panels below the bumpers as they come out below their body cavity. The 1/4 panels are secured by a series of screws and bolts around their periphery, including three on the vertical panel at the back of the wheel arch. If you can't see them remove the underseal and they'll become visible. On many cars, rust does part of the removal job for you and you might find you need new 1/4 panels, even a new boot floor !

Just getting the fuel fillers off can take much effort, as once the four little securing screws are removed, they have to be pulled out from the top and are usually seized. Plenty of release fluid and turning them whilst pulling usually works.

It is a must to drain tanks before removal, as you have to remove the feed pipes to the pump, plus the fuel return pipes. There are then about two or three screws to undo in the boot sides, and a vertical bolt accessible from underneath. I fyou look on the bottom of the 1/4 panels you'll see a black plug. Behind this is the drain and the gauze filter.

 

I have had to remove both of my fuel tanks and from first hand experience I would say it is a labor intensive job. However, it is certainly a DIY job for anyone with moderate mechanical aptitude. One thing that would be recommended is to anticipate replacing all of the nuts and bolts holding on the bumpers and 1/4 panel. A little anti-seize would be helpful too when replacing.

Instead of replacing with new tanks, I had mine restored by a company called Renu. Consider that as an option to ensure no rust or sediment issues in the future.