I bought a set of aftermarket fuel tank senders from non jaguar parts dealer and they don't read accurately.

They are reading 1/2 tank at empty. If I accidentally swapped the left for right would this explain the misreading?

Is there a way to add a resistor to get an accurate empty reading?

Any other insights ?

 

The float arms may have been bent at some point....shipping or installation. If so, they can be re-bent to read correctly. A bit of trial and error might be involved.

As for left versus right, I'm not sure if it is even possible to mix them up. Others will chime in. I recall, perhaps incorrectly, that the mountings have locating tabs that would prevent a mix-up. In any case, if it IS possible to mix them up, I can see where it might cause a problem. The floats might end up in a position where they're stuck on something inside the tank.

Cheers
DD

 

Hi, Andy,
My Series 2 tank senders have the locating lugs Doug mentions, are side specific and can only be installed one way up.

When you think of the loooong rod the floats are hung from and their relatively delicate nature, it's not hard to see how some shipping room Gorilla might have mishandled the package, bending the rods.
(';')

 

Andy,
I installed two aftermarket with much fiddling was never satisfied, and finally gave up and got a pair from Moss that worked perfectly on first installation.
The aftermarket ones came with instructions, which indicated that the senders fit several makes and models of different vehicles, and required bending the wire float arms to match the removed units. I had already discarded remove units, as the wiper coils were completely worn through, and I never thought I would have to match them to new units for proper fit. Tried to calibrated at full position, which was a big mistake, as low end was way off. Using metered fuel at pump and trip computer fuel used function for calibration and "trial and error" bending of the wire to lower or raise float.

My check procedure: fill tank to max auto-shut off of station pump. ( I always go back to the same pump number at the station). Reset trip computer and drive until fuel level indications is at the last mark before empty ( ~ 1/6th -1/8th tank); then go to station, same pump # and fill to pump automatic shut off. repeat for 1/2 full indication and 3/4 full indications. I made a cheat sheet for the differences between fuel used and metered fuel until full. I keep the cheat sheet in glove box, if I get caught trying to stretch to the next available fuel station on a long trip
Knowing the remaining fuel until empty from the last mark is the most important number to calculate for your cheat sheet.
If you wind up pulling the sender too many times, the retaining ring clip will get bent. I got new seals and new ring clips from Moss at the same time.
Rgds
David

XJ6 Fuel Qty Sender Tool
Parts: ACE Hardware Store

2” PVC cap (with 3 equal spaced 3/16” deep notches filed in end)

5/16 x 1-1/4” bolt NC thread

5/16” long (connector nut) NC thread

2 each 5/16” Star washers

2 each ¾”star washers

2 each 5/16” by 1-1/4”feder washers (may have to drill-out ¼”fender washer to 5/16”

Red thread locker

Drill 5/16” hole in center of PVC cap

Assemble with 2ea fender washers and 4ea star washers, nut and bolt with red thread locker.

Star washers between cap, bolt head and nut

 

This is all great info and David I especially appreciate your experience. I just went down into my basement to find my old senders to see if the bends are different and discovered that I'd thrown them out! UGH! I'm gonna switch them side to side and then mess around with the bends to see if I can get an accurate "empty" reading but if no joy then ill buy new from Moss or SNG.

 

While you have the floats out, You can rest the entire assembly on the bumper, Or possibly a chair, Turn on the key but do not start. operate the float manually to watch the gauge operation.

Larry Louton

 

Turns out I had them switched from side to side and so the float was situated against the internal pipes. Should any future searchers find this thread the float should aim towards the outside of the car.

Larry, I did do exactly that while I had them out. It turns out that they required some tweaking to register an accurate "E" for empty.

Another trick for future searchers (though a bit cumbersome) is to fill the tanks with water to test the action of the floats. I'm glad I did this because upon my first installation after switching the senders side to side I discovered that one sender registered "E" correctly but didn't rise when filled. Filling and draining 7 gallons of water was a hell of a lot easier than 7 gallons of gas. After filling and draining several times both tanks to test, I aimed my leaf blower through the filler neck (with drain plug removed) and then poured a quart of denatured alcohol into tank and then leaf blower again. Finally, added fresh gas and HEET. I also disconnected gas line at the carbs and pumped gas through.