Fuel tanks
#1
Fuel tanks
Hey everyone ,
i can't figure out where my raw gas smell is coming from. I have changed the fuel pump and the lines in the trunk. I don't see any gas on the floor but it must be coming from somewhere. I guess the next step is to drop the rear quarter panels and take a look at the tank connections. The car is virtually rust free and I have pumped gas out of the tanks and the fuel is perfectly clear so I have ruled out a rusty tank. Neither of my fuel sends seem to be accurate but I don't see any leaks at the round cover in front of the rear wheels. Any other ideas?
i can't figure out where my raw gas smell is coming from. I have changed the fuel pump and the lines in the trunk. I don't see any gas on the floor but it must be coming from somewhere. I guess the next step is to drop the rear quarter panels and take a look at the tank connections. The car is virtually rust free and I have pumped gas out of the tanks and the fuel is perfectly clear so I have ruled out a rusty tank. Neither of my fuel sends seem to be accurate but I don't see any leaks at the round cover in front of the rear wheels. Any other ideas?
#2
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
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It only takes a tiny tiny amount of raw fuel to make a big odor. Doesn't have to be a drip. Just an 'ooooze' is enough. And the odor can sometimes travel in weird ways
Does the odor seem to be isolated in the rear?
I've seen tanks that just oooozed a tiny bit....just enough to leave a small damp spot. But enough to give off an odor
The condensate canisters in the c-pillars can leak, as can any of the vent pipes. The gas cap seals can leak.
Don't forget to check all the engine bay hoses including the short hidden hose that lives right at the very front of the cylinder head.
Wrap all the hoses junctions, pump, changeover valve, etc with clean cloths and leave 'em overnight. Then, next day, check each of them for odor. You might be able to zero-in on something
Cheers
DD
Does the odor seem to be isolated in the rear?
I've seen tanks that just oooozed a tiny bit....just enough to leave a small damp spot. But enough to give off an odor
The condensate canisters in the c-pillars can leak, as can any of the vent pipes. The gas cap seals can leak.
Don't forget to check all the engine bay hoses including the short hidden hose that lives right at the very front of the cylinder head.
Wrap all the hoses junctions, pump, changeover valve, etc with clean cloths and leave 'em overnight. Then, next day, check each of them for odor. You might be able to zero-in on something
Cheers
DD
#3
Thanks Doug
How how do you access the condensate cylinders?
How how do you access the condensate cylinders?
It only takes a tiny tiny amount of raw fuel to make a big odor. Doesn't have to be a drip. Just an 'ooooze' is enough. And the odor can sometimes travel in weird ways
Does the odor seem to be isolated in the rear?
I've seen tanks that just oooozed a tiny bit....just enough to leave a small damp spot. But enough to give off an odor
The condensate canisters in the c-pillars can leak, as can any of the vent pipes. The gas cap seals can leak.
Don't forget to check all the engine bay hoses including the short hidden hose that lives right at the very front of the cylinder head.
Wrap all the hoses junctions, pump, changeover valve, etc with clean cloths and leave 'em overnight. Then, next day, check each of them for odor. You might be able to zero-in on something
Cheers
DD
Does the odor seem to be isolated in the rear?
I've seen tanks that just oooozed a tiny bit....just enough to leave a small damp spot. But enough to give off an odor
The condensate canisters in the c-pillars can leak, as can any of the vent pipes. The gas cap seals can leak.
Don't forget to check all the engine bay hoses including the short hidden hose that lives right at the very front of the cylinder head.
Wrap all the hoses junctions, pump, changeover valve, etc with clean cloths and leave 'em overnight. Then, next day, check each of them for odor. You might be able to zero-in on something
Cheers
DD
#4
Join Date: Mar 2008
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You'll have to remove the "C pillar" trim panels...which means removing the rear overhead grab handles and possibly the parcel shelf....although I can't quite remember for sure about the parcel shelf to be honest.
A screw hold the condensate cylinders in place. With the screw removed you can wriggle them out of position. A bit of a PITA. Your nose will probably tell you if your headed in the right direction without need for disassembly. Just do some sniffin' around back there !
Cheers
DD
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On another forum, an eccentric lister came up with a workable idea as to how to deal with the gas odor which seems pervasive as the cars get older. There is a lot of plumbing involved, and as such great opportunity for the "oozes" Doug describes.
There is a vent in the floor of the boot. His "solution" was to power assist the departing air at that point. He used a small fan from a departed computer. I saved one from one of my old critters for that purpose. On the ever growing task list....
There are vents under the rear valance. Easily crunched flat. I found mine to be so.
But, gentle pressure with a flat "tommy bar" opened them and did not even disturb the paint!!!
Carl
There is a vent in the floor of the boot. His "solution" was to power assist the departing air at that point. He used a small fan from a departed computer. I saved one from one of my old critters for that purpose. On the ever growing task list....
There are vents under the rear valance. Easily crunched flat. I found mine to be so.
But, gentle pressure with a flat "tommy bar" opened them and did not even disturb the paint!!!
Carl
#9
if the fuel smell comes from the rear compartment, remove the upholstery panel at the front inside of the trunk and verify that the two hanging Vent Flaps have insulation on them, in the case of the Series 3, a piece of headliner fabric was glued to them and as the foam dissolves, the fabric falls off.
These "hanging" vent flaps cover two large vent holes or "cutouts" that are exactly behind the rear seat, so they provide a way to allow fumes into the cabin if they are not sealing well.
These "hanging" vent flaps cover two large vent holes or "cutouts" that are exactly behind the rear seat, so they provide a way to allow fumes into the cabin if they are not sealing well.
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