Fuel tanks blocked ?
#1
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Gday all,
I have a series 2 xj6. I have removed the both fuel tanks and found that one is worse than the other full of rust and gunk. The fuel outlets on the bottom appeared to be blocked. I noticed inside the the tank that runs down to the outlet is a pipe that runs through the tank. My question is that I assume those pipes are supposed to be free flowing. I have tried blowing these pipes out but they appear to be blocked? Is this a common problem? The rust in the tank i am planning to treat and coat with special paint. What methods can be used to unblock the tube inside the fuel tank? I have noticed the fuel strainer in the tank has withered away broken etc..... I cant see this as a major problem? Any advice to solve these problems appreciated. Thanks
I have a series 2 xj6. I have removed the both fuel tanks and found that one is worse than the other full of rust and gunk. The fuel outlets on the bottom appeared to be blocked. I noticed inside the the tank that runs down to the outlet is a pipe that runs through the tank. My question is that I assume those pipes are supposed to be free flowing. I have tried blowing these pipes out but they appear to be blocked? Is this a common problem? The rust in the tank i am planning to treat and coat with special paint. What methods can be used to unblock the tube inside the fuel tank? I have noticed the fuel strainer in the tank has withered away broken etc..... I cant see this as a major problem? Any advice to solve these problems appreciated. Thanks
#2
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Hi - I am not positive if you can get the blockage out without some chemical intervention. Even if you can clear it, I would assume you would need to verify the integrity of the inside of the vent lines. If it is corrosion, you may have deeper concerns to deal with. More than likely - once you clean/clear all the internal tank lines and the tank itself you will be in good shape. If you check out my albums you can see what a treated tank looks like - how to get it in/out if you need any of that information. I spent alot of time on my tanks as they were both shot. In my example - I have a local radiator shop with experience working Jag tanks. They were dipped, cleaned, and treated - then painted and prepared for installation. ALL of that work was done for LESS than the cost of ONE replacement tank. I dont expect to have any future problems. A word of caution as well - once this tank work is done - dont forget to change the seals under the fuel cap as well as the filler neck o-rings. It will happen all over again if you cannot keep the water out. Verify the lines that drain from the rear windscreen are clear, and the lines that drain from around the fuel cap itself down through the rear wings. The internal filters can be found on line - or via E-bay. Mine were also in pieces. The drivers tank was so bad that even with the plug removed to drain - it didnt. Too much garbage in the bottom of the tank to even let the gas drain more then a dribble at a time. It all had to come out. If you are doing this yourself - soaking them - and blowing them out over and over until you get it all is the only way to go before you treat them. It takes years to build up - it wont come clean without spending some time to remove it all properly.
#3
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Hi - I am not positive if you can get the blockage out without some chemical intervention. Even if you can clear it, I would assume you would need to verify the integrity of the inside of the vent lines. If it is corrosion, you may have deeper concerns to deal with. More than likely - once you clean/clear all the internal tank lines and the tank itself you will be in good shape. If you check out my albums you can see what a treated tank looks like - how to get it in/out if you need any of that information. I spent alot of time on my tanks as they were both shot. In my example - I have a local radiator shop with experience working Jag tanks. They were dipped, cleaned, and treated - then painted and prepared for installation. ALL of that work was done for LESS than the cost of ONE replacement tank. I dont expect to have any future problems. A word of caution as well - once this tank work is done - dont forget to change the seals under the fuel cap as well as the filler neck o-rings. It will happen all over again if you cannot keep the water out. Verify the lines that drain from the rear windscreen are clear, and the lines that drain from around the fuel cap itself down through the rear wings. The internal filters can be found on line - or via E-bay. Mine were also in pieces. The drivers tank was so bad that even with the plug removed to drain - it didnt. Too much garbage in the bottom of the tank to even let the gas drain more then a dribble at a time. It all had to come out. If you are doing this yourself - soaking them - and blowing them out over and over until you get it all is the only way to go before you treat them. It takes years to build up - it wont come clean without spending some time to remove it all properly.
Thank you very much for the comprehensive response. Very helpful info and useful. Cheers
#4
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Hi - I am not positive if you can get the blockage out without some chemical intervention. Even if you can clear it, I would assume you would need to verify the integrity of the inside of the vent lines. If it is corrosion, you may have deeper concerns to deal with. More than likely - once you clean/clear all the internal tank lines and the tank itself you will be in good shape. If you check out my albums you can see what a treated tank looks like - how to get it in/out if you need any of that information. I spent alot of time on my tanks as they were both shot. In my example - I have a local radiator shop with experience working Jag tanks. They were dipped, cleaned, and treated - then painted and prepared for installation. ALL of that work was done for LESS than the cost of ONE replacement tank. I dont expect to have any future problems. A word of caution as well - once this tank work is done - dont forget to change the seals under the fuel cap as well as the filler neck o-rings. It will happen all over again if you cannot keep the water out. Verify the lines that drain from the rear windscreen are clear, and the lines that drain from around the fuel cap itself down through the rear wings. The internal filters can be found on line - or via E-bay. Mine were also in pieces. The drivers tank was so bad that even with the plug removed to drain - it didnt. Too much garbage in the bottom of the tank to even let the gas drain more then a dribble at a time. It all had to come out. If you are doing this yourself - soaking them - and blowing them out over and over until you get it all is the only way to go before you treat them. It takes years to build up - it wont come clean without spending some time to remove it all properly.
#5
#6
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Jaguar FILTER SCREEN, FUEL TANK PICKUP (FILTER SOCK). - CBC5649
I hope this link works. Here is a picture of what my Series III has installed.
I hope this link works. Here is a picture of what my Series III has installed.
#7
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#8
#9
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There is a drain plug in the center of the housing. The housing itself is also threaded in. One on of my tanks the drain plug came out. The other, I had to remove the entire housing to avoid stripping the plug. It looks like this on my Series III.
![](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xj6-xj12-series-i-ii-iii-16/48269-fuel-tanks-blocked-ahabiam-125419-albums-pulling-saddle-tanks-restoration-6337-picture-lower-fuel-line-17865.jpg?dateline=1373911873)
Keep in mind as well that if you pull the drain out only - you will not be able to access the sock to change it. Also, the drain plug only has a copper seal. If you pull the entire housing - there is actually a seal/gasket underneath that you might as well plan on changing.
#10
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The tanks have history of injesting water. Rust/garbage/corrosion will clog lines, and kill your fuel pump. You need to keep the fuel moving to the pump clean. I have seen many threads on this site where many suggest putting an additional in line filter in the line before the pump. As long as you keep the fuel drawn from the tank clean before getting to the pump, your good. Your decison. Since I pulled the tanks, and cleaned the system - I will also replace ALL the filters. If you are not going this deep - I would suppose a good filter before the pump will work as well. If you have dirty tanks - expect to change the filter often. You dont want garbage in the pump and you dont want the pump starving for fuel.
#11
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