XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III 1968-1992
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Full Transmission Adjustment

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Old 05-25-2013, 09:15 AM
aussie_ser3's Avatar
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Default Full Transmission Adjustment

Hi al
My series 3 is driving well now but it really likes top gear, to the point that it wont change down around corners unless you go under about thirty kmh.
it also flairs a little and is it bit rough on gear changes, especially into first when your going slow.

what i want to know is:

1. best way to adjust the kickdown cable. apparently dropping the pan and looking at the position of the cam is best? ide prefer not to seeing as it has new fluid and gaskets.

2. can you adjust the bands till they are just snug then do it up, i cant find a 5 pound torque wrench amoung any of my friends and dont want to buy one for one job.

3. will adjusting the selector cable improve any of my issues.

the transmission isnt too bad, its smooth on upshifts when your taking it easy but is slightly rough on the downshifts at WOT. i did a full flush 2,000 ago and put castrol type f back in.


thanks for your help,
regards jay
 
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Old 05-25-2013, 11:09 AM
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Default

Originally Posted by aussie_ser3
Hi al
My series 3 is driving well now but it really likes top gear, to the point that it wont change down around corners unless you go under about thirty kmh.
it also flairs a little and is it bit rough on gear changes, especially into first when your going slow.

what i want to know is:

1. best way to adjust the kickdown cable. apparently dropping the pan and looking at the position of the cam is best? ide prefer not to seeing as it has new fluid and gaskets.


Yes, we've learned that the drop-the-pan method provides , at minium, an important initial setting. From this the adjustment should be trimmed with a pressure gauge to measure the results....but not many of us have a pressure guage.

If you're confident that the internal, initial setting is correct, the alternative final adjust is this:

There is a "ferrule" crimped onto the cable at the engine end. You'll see it next to the adjustment lock nuts. The gap between the ferrule and the threaded portion of the cable housing should be .020"-.030".

Many owners successfully make small incremental adjustments in one direction or another to tweak the shift characteristics. The specification range implies this is permissable although it is *possible* to go too far and actually cause transmission damage. I've heard of this happening only once, but still.....



2. can you adjust the bands till they are just snug then do it up, i cant find a 5 pound torque wrench amoung any of my friends and dont want to buy one for one job.


Yes. I think the 5 pound spec (which is almost nothing) is there just to ensure the adjuster in fully seated before backing it off. I just gently apply a bit of pressure....a "three finger pull" on the wrench...to accomplish the same thing.



3. will adjusting the selector cable improve any of my issues.

Doubtful, unless you suspect mis-adjustment is preventing solid engagement into each selection. But, it couldn't hurt, and as long as you're adjusting things..... !

Bear in mind that the old BW66 was never the world's smoothest or most repsonsive transmission. If the adjustments are outta whack it's easy to improve how it behaves but be prepared for "this is probably as good as it gets" results as well


Cheers
DD
 
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