Thank you all for your condolences. They are greatly appreciated.

Yes, Greg, the actual Frame is bent. THE FRAME!! Even though it's only mild steel, it's a Frame member, heavy enough to support the whole entire car if need be. This isn't going to respond to mere tapping with body tools.

On the farm if this happened, we would drag the rubber wrench (acetylene torch) off the nurse truck, heat up the effected part until it's red and bash it back into position with a Big Hammer (probably a sledge), which would have been a Lot easier as there would be room to swing it out in the field. This is irrelevant anyway because when husband's eyes began to fail he got rid of his torch setup. It's far too dangerous to be messing with fire under there anyway as there are Way too many flammable bits too close.

Dave, husband has a Port-a-Power and about half a mile of various chains, but as you say, Where to push/pull from?? As it happened with a sharp, hard blow, it would take another equally sharp, hard blow from the opposite direction to put it back. Even though it's only out about 1/8 inch, that might as well be a mile given the complexity and density of the structure in that area.

When husband had the slab poured, he had several bull rings cast into the floor for just this sort of frame work, but the car is on jack stands 20 inches high. At this point my worst nightmare is jerking it around so it falls off. That would be a Complete disaster on so many levels I don't even want to think about.

After seeing what I'm up against, I wrapped myself around a couple shots of Bacardi Gold last night and went to bed. I have to say it doesn't look much better this morning.

I'm taking a couple days completely away from this. Maybe I'll be hit with a Blinding Flash of insight.
(';')

 

Elinor, your mind is not in its' happy spot right now, I know how you feel. Let me throw out a few things that you might consider.

I will remain firm on the "rod through the 6-shooter" as a good way to see the amount and direction of the misalignment. To narrow down your search for the bend, establish an exact center line (front to back) of the frame. Without the front X-member in place, you could measure between the mounting bolt holes for the V-mounts and between bolt holes for the transmission support for example. Any two (or three) spots that are perpendicular to each other and are a mirror image to the width of the car. Set up a string-line that represents this center line, I think I would attach the line to the car at a rear point and to a weighted jack stand out in front of the bumper. I say jack stand because it might not be clear yet what and where the front frame piece(s) might be bent..don't want to tie off to a bent piece.

When you feel good about your center line, begin to take measurements, left and right of the line, and see what the numbers show. Hopefully, you can get an idea where the frame is bent, in what direction, and by how much. If you can pinpoint where and what is bent, rigging chains, port-a-power, blocking/counter-blocking might be apparent, or you might decide to bring in a friend with more experience. I would NOT use the anchors in your floor to pull against while on jack stands. I WOULD, however, use them to stabilize the car a little more with a couple of ratchet straps.

It's easy, just make the bad side look like the good side. Good luck.

Dave

 

LnR
Something to ponder on:
If the bit of frame that the huge bolt goes through is only 1/8 inch out of true, you might consider leaving it, and proceeding as as follows:

1. Open out the circular clamp on the subframe (might need a longer bolt too in case it is hard to get the old one engaged)
2. Place the 6 shot in the clamp and ensure it can jiggle about enough to be sufficiently off the vertical to accommodate your un-horizontal bolt
3. Offer up subframe as before and engage everything as before
4. Shove the huge bolt through the frame and jiggle the six shot about to get the bolt through the bush and sleeve
5. Do up six shot retaining bolt having done up all the other subframe and engine fixings
6. Finally do up the circular clamp. Note that if you weld the nut to the TOP part of the clamp, it is then dead easy to do up the clamp bolt from below. I always do this with any subframe I work on, anyway. But as I mentioned, ensure you have a longer bolt in case engagement is difficult

If this works, which it will if i understand you correctly, i do not think you will notice anything at all thereafter in the ride/handling/wheel alignment of the car. The front pointing-forward arms of the subframe are not that robust, and they often get bent when people jack up or support the car on them, particularly if, like me, you did it on one side the the inverted U shape only - (years ago mind, i was only young..)
All the six shots actually do, is to help keep the subframe more or less level and help to prevent the it and engine moving forwards or backwards under braking or acceleration, or sideways under cornering.
There is no way it will matter if the clamp round the six shot is a bit wonky or off perfection when done up tight.

 

Thank you, Dave, spoken like a true engineer.
I have just the rod for checking alignment; the Spring Removal rod. With an extension, which I also just happen to have, it will be close enough to give me a good idea where things sit. Also to check if anything is actually ripped and not merely bent.

Thank you, Greg,
I will check centering and alignment as Dave suggests just to be sure, but the farmer in me is strongly leaning toward this simple "fix" when I know. I have been giving it serious thought since I first read this several hours ago.

I had noticed the relatively delicate nature of the horns, even if they're sort of triangulated, strength being forward/back and not necessarily lateral unless they're strongly connected to something else. I'm not especially concerned what this looks like when finished, only that I can get a good tire alignment and steady handling.

I'll get back when I have progress to report. At least now I have hope that something CAN be done.
(';')

 

LnrB
Take a look a attached sketch, I think this will do the trick with out a triple sized sledge Hamer.
Best wishes for a simple resolution..... I now think the slight clunk in my front-end will wait till next year!!!!!
Rgds
David

 

LnR
The problem I have with attempting to straighten the chassis - in fact to twist that particular point - is that (unlike, say, a bent doorframe) there is nothing solid to purchase against. I suspect (and I am obviously open to correction) that jacking up a lever slotted into the chassis will just lift the car well before any twisting happens. I cannot see how the counter-torque can be effectively applied. And if you do apply counter-torque somewhere, you have an excellent chance of bending that place, rather than the intended one.
The "horns" are indeed not that strong or rigid, as their loads are forward and back only. As long as the horn is not shorter, then I cannot see how it affects anything if the six shot circular clamp is a bit canted over from the horizontal. Easy to say from 7,000 miles away, but I would try the "farm" way first, align the car and try it.
My belief is that the only way you can actually straighten that part of the chassis properly is to "cut and shut" it; i.e. build a jig, cut it and weld it then reinforce it with metal splints welded over the join.

 

After a day of measuring, checking, cross checking and rechecking I can confidently say that only that bit of the frame is affected. This evening I will open up the keeper on the Right 6-shot bushing so that I can put the bushing wherever it wants to go and then close the keeper after everything else is tight.

Thank you, David, I did find your PDF interesting and elegantly simple. It *might* work if the warp was in a downward direction but it's not. The frame was bashed Back. Anyway, I"m not sure there's enough weight to keep it from raising the car off the jack stands, as it's a Chevy 350 weighing only around 350 pounds rather than the XK that weighs 500 pounds.

My experience this time is Off-the-charts unusual. Only the collision with the structural steel beam has made it so. The last time we did this to my car it was almost a walk in the park. If everything is straight, as mine was then, and you have all the correct parts and bushings on hand, you should be able to do it in a Lot less time than it's taken me.

Your clunking will only get worse as will your handling. Pretty soon you'll nearly have to get out and kick one tire then the other to keep in on the road.
(';')

 

"This evening I will open up the keeper on the Right 6-shot bushing so that I can put the bushing wherever it wants to go and then close the keeper after everything else is tight."

Well done!!!!!! Idaho farm girl out smarts the experts.... No trips to Harbor freight and Home Depot for a pick-up load of once in a life-time tools.

I was thinking of getting at lower bushings by unhooking the steering rack (as mentioned by Doug and others), which is a two handed job laying on your back. It's the three handed requirement to reinstall with shims et al. that I haven't figured out yet. My wife says there won't be any earth quakes in Central California, as long as I don't crawl under the jag resting on jack-stands???
Thank you for the Encouragement to go for it.
Rgds
David

 

Thank you, David,
Just a couple points here, first of all, it was Not my idea, it was Greg's! We must give credit where it's due.
And, I'm not from Idaho, I grew up in Montana.

I think you'll find it extremely difficult to renew your suspension bushings without dropping the cross member out of the car, Unless you have a lift. But then you're working over your head with some items that are quite heavy. Check in the Quick Links for proper directions and instructions how to do this.

Rather than perch your car on jack stands, use blocks, pallets, old tires, anything that makes your wife more comfortable about you working under the car.

If I can do this, You can do this.
(';')

 

Well, here we are again, folks, I hope it takes this time.

I'm back where I was a week ago, except this time, thanks to Greg's Farmer Fix, it has worked! I found a keeper bolt half an inch longer, but it only made catching threads easier, the extra length wasn't critical.

So, both 6-shooter bushings are secure and The V-mounts are in position, but I don't have the motor mount bolts in yet. I'll leave the jack under until I get that done.

And then, only the fiddly bits remain and they will take a few days to complete as my work is picking up, seriously cutting into my Wrenching time.
(';')

 

Well done.

Barardi O'clock me thinks.

 

Thank you, Grant,
I usually keep Bacardi for Disaster Management.
(';')

 

I'm just about down to Rough Alignment. I'll bring those tools out tomorrow.
All the fiddly bits are hung where they belong, new 7/8" anti-sway bar in place, brake pipes in place, engine support bar headed back to the attic, about 75 pounds of tools are already put away.

Today, as it's been so long, I began turning the AC compressor by hand (clutch disengaged of course) to get oil on the seal. This is not an easy task but quite a lot easier than changing the seal.
(';')

 

I thought it was about time to let you know how my "Winter" project is progressing.

I keep thinking I should be making more progress, but then husband reminds me of what all else has taken up my time. Quite a lot of it has been waiting for parts. Or other parts. Or more parts. Or correct parts.
The usual for a project of this magnitude I suppose.

However, even though the car is still on jack stands, it's ready to fire tomorrow in search of Leaks!
Steering leaks, brake leaks and coolant leaks, as I had to break into the cooling system in the smallest, most insignificant manner (to fix the burp tank), but of course it spilled all over the floor so I had that mess to clean up besides the usual mess to clean up.

However, as tomorrow is Monday and my presence will be required elsewhere most of the day, it might not be until evening that I learn just how many Leaks I have. Working on this evenings is a pain even though we have later daylight.

Then I'll gather all the stuff to raise the hubs to ride height and torque the sway bar bushings and lower wishbones. Then I can put tires on, put it on the floor and do a rough alignment; at least good enough to get to the tire shop.

I'm getting anxious now, it's Driving Season!
I do have a built in Deadline, Registration and Emissions test due May 15.
No time for dinkin' around!
(';')

 

I hear ya !

It can be fun working on an old Jag. And it's always nice looking at an old Jag.

But driving an old Jag is when the real satisfaction occurs

Cheers
DD

 

I took a deep breath and connected the battery ground/earth, and got the Biggest surprise, the engine started to crank!
Well, Veberflobitz!
Now what?
Never let it be said Murphy doesn't visit here.

Somehow in all my fooling around under the car, the main power cable from the battery leaned over and got in touch with the other post on the solenoid, and the car hot-wired itself. Cheeky. So I was back under the car. All fixed.

Trying again. 5 seconds cranking, and the most Beautiful V8 sound, followed by a Horrible growling screech.
Well I sort of expected part of that, but not quite that loud. I had filled the steering pump to the brim, but as the rack was Empty, it didn't take long for the pump to be empty too.

Refilling PS pump.
Cranking again and it fired.
Amazingly, no Screeching! Imagine that!

Also No Leaks!
No rack leaks, No pump leaks, No brake leaks (might need a bit more bleeding), and No coolant leaks.
HA!

Tomorrow I'll jack up the hubs one at a time to Ride Height, just until I see a mm daylight between jack stand and body, and torque the wishbones to the specified 35-50 foot pounds. I'll probably shoot for the mid 40s.

Husband is getting even more anxious than I am to get her back on the road. He's not real fond of riding in Trucklet. He Loves riding in Nix.
(';')

 

You've found your next "side work" time filler, Elinor. As someone who can do a Jaguar job the first time and not have any "come-backs". I am impressed! Great job.

Dave

 

Good for You, congratulations. A huge job and all done well.
Greg

 

Can you get your jack far enough outboard to do that?

If not put the tires back on and lower the car onto block or ramps.

Great work !

Cheers
DD

 

Congratulations.

A none intended hot wire, and a fluid rush, way to go.