Thanks, Guys,
Doug, I think I can get it high enough, if I put a 4x4x6 inch block on the smallest trolley jack and put that under the ball joint. If that fails, I do have a Plan B, but ramps will require tires be on, and they will hamper me getting a good grip on the wishbone nuts. But I may have to do that anyway. Certainly ramps will be needed to properly tighten the sway bar ends as they need to be the same height on both sides at the same time or the bushings go all wonky.

Dave, I'm not in any danger of running out of things to do, but thank you for that suggestion, and as I've mentioned here, this isn't the first time. I think I'll rather chase lawn mowers until I can't walk. The pay is better, the satisfaction is almost as good and it's a lot cleaner work. And, my clientele Like me.

Greg, Yes, it was a huge job, but like all Huge Jobs, merely a combination of numerous small jobs best tackled one at a time. I did have the advantage of doing this previously relatively recently, so I did know what I was in for and pretty much what to do next.

Grant, I hope I never have to do this again. It will look good on my resume' and there is a feeling of good accomplishment, but Twice is enough.

Up next, Rough Alignment.
(';')

 

LnR
I found the problem with jacking the suspension was that the leverage on the spring from the ball joint was insufficient to get the spring sufficiently compressed to the right place before the entire car started being lifted, rather than the spring compressed and the wishbone thus levelled.
I made a wood block with a groove for the disc, and this gave enough leverage to do the job.

 

^^^
Well, That saved me some frustration! Thank you again, Greg.
Did you grow up on the farm?? Are you still on the farm? This sounds like another Farmer Fix.
(';')

 

I grew up spending most of my time on my best friend's farm.
Sadly did not spend my working life on mechanical things, but all my spare time. Now being retired, we bought a few hectares and an old farmhouse, loads of barns, so all my time is looking after that - tractors, mowers, construction etc etc - and the XJS which I have rebuilt, and having fun with my lovely wife. Long may it continue!

 

I made a wood block with a groove for the disc, and this gave enough leverage to do the job.

I'll remember that!
Rob

 

Lookie here at this, Fellas!
All Finished and on all four feet firmly on the floor.

And Boy Howdy is she ever Dirty! Too dirty to be seen out in public that's for sure.
I'll call for an Emissions test appointment on Monday and get that off my back.
And then we're going Cruisin'!!

This has Certainly been an adventure. The definition of which is, "A stressful situation that you survive."
(';')

 

Looking forward to the first driving report !

Good work !

Cheers
DD

 

Maybe you all guys thought I had abandoned this project, or worse yet, totally finished without posting the Test Drive Report.

Would I do a thing like that without telling anyone?? Not Even!

I finally got to Rough Alignment, and it wasn't as bad as it could have been. Well, right caster is a bit off.
Camber: Left side = 0*; Right side = -1*. (Specs: 1/2* plus or minus 1/4*)
Caster: Left side = +2*; Right side = +7*(!!) (Specs: 2-1/4* plus or minus 1/4*)
Hmm... I think I need to move some shims.

I haven't checked toe yet, it should be Toe In = 1/16" to 1/8"
(';')

 

Successful amateur alignment is completed.
Finals are centered in OEM specs.
After a late lunch, TEST DRIVE!!
(';')

 

Test drive was greatly anticipated but uneventful.

I will start off answering the question many have asked since I installed Poly trailing arm bushings.
I noticed right away they seem harsh and noisy compared to the rotten rubber they replaced; not unlike overinflated tires. This may have also been the case had I put in rubber, as the old ones were a cross between Swiss cheese and gummy bears. I'm sure this made the ride pillow soft although mushy with a bit of seasickness for passengers in the back seat.

If I was to do it again (and I just might) I would put in rubber bushings, even if they only last 3 years, as they aren't all that hard to change if you have someone to properly press them. The bushings husband got are not the super hard ones, but relatively soft and pliable for Poly. They're Purple, came from SNG Barrett.

Steering is crisp and positive as it should be. As in, I had better mean it when I turn the wheel now, because it Will go where I point it, Right Now and not after a while. And it will Stay where I point it (not wandering all over the road) as long as I point it there until I point is somewhere else. But snaps back to center as it should, not taking it all under advisement like it did this time last year. And, NO LEAK FROM THE TOWER SEAL!! Which means I've lost the majority of Automatic Rust Protection. Dang!

Brakes are firm and positive. No more of this 'tail wagging the dog' stuff. She stops in a straight line with no surprises.

Tomorrow I will be at the "No Appointment Necessary On Saturday" emissions testing station well before they open for business (there's always quite a line) and get that chore taken care of.

After that, I need to get her some new tires. The National Highway Safety Administration says tires should be changed out every 6 years maximum no matter what the tread looks like. Having been bitten Hard by 10 old Michelins when she first came to live with us (energetic disassembly on a curve at speed), I will take that counsel to heart. Nix's current tires, although they still look Real good are now 6 years old. I plan to drive the new ones just like I have driven these; Hard and Fast.
(';')

 

I hope I get positive results from my labor, as you have. I've never ridden in any Jaguar, so my expectations are kind of open ended. FWIW, I used rubber bushing in the front of the trailing arm and poly in the axle end. I don't remember now which way I turned the big bush. I'm so used to pickups, suburbans, and tahoes that a firm ride is my preference.

Driven hard and fast...........yes, carry on!

Dave

 

LnR
Great news, and so well done! I am quite sure that before long those radius arms will come off and genuine Metalastics from Jack at Manners will get swapped in! My experience is that they last for ever - at least 15 to 15 years!

 

Well done and the reply is as expected.

Greg has clearly found the WINE, "15 to 15 years", REALLY. I should join him.

Polly in those trailing arms, no way for me, even trurning them 90deg, as some state, is not to my liking.

I did try the turn fitment on the Daimler, OOPS, 1 hour later, turned them back, AHH, that's more like it.

 

Elinor, In your post you talk of improving the feel and accuracy of the steering. My 85 wanders a bit, not very much, but just enough to keep your attention. All the bushings look ok around the entire front end. Which did you change out that you feel contributed the most to the steering improvements? Ian

 

Thank you very much, Guys,
Dave: I put the trailing arm bushings back the same way I found them. I find that's usually the best way unless something is Obviously wrong.

Greg: I agree with Grant. 15 to 15 years is Forever? I hope it was a good party..
While they might still be available I just might lay in a set of Metalastik trailing arm bushings for later. Then when the mood strikes me I'll have them.

Grant: At the time I changed the trailing arms, husband was doing all my procurement, and he couldn't find Metalastik anywhere. But that was before Greg very kindly set me on to David Manners.

Ian: Yes, my car had got so bad it wandered between the ditches basically and I had to pay rapt attention to keep it on the road. The Lower Wishbone bushings were in Far worse condition than the ones we changed 6 years ago, when it "wandered a bit" just after it came to live with us. I'm convinced those bushings made the steering right.

I'm quite sure that under "Normal Circumstances" (whatever those are) this job wouldn't take 4 months. That time frame is Ridiculous! But if one already has the Correct parts, ALL the correct parts, and there are no nasty surprises, it should be able to be done in Far less time and with less hassle.

And I hope to Never have to do this again. (that's what I said last time)
(';')

 

^^^
After personal reasons had me working alone on Ken's Catastrophic Cattery, I knew I was missing much with my absence from JF. Still spanner twirling on Jaguars over some 50 years, and despite a few lurks during my absence, I was unsure how much I was missing.

Now I know!

This thread has to be one of the truly great write-ups I have seen over nearly a decade . . . and I have written many and contributed to many more. Across nearly 100 posts, this thread has it all . . . the options considered, why each process was undertaken the way it was, the work to identify and locate preferred parts, the consultation with a group of our gurus who offered both encouragement and expertise.

At almost every post, this thread reeks of the outstanding results that can be achieved by someone who has a plan, attacks each task with an uncommon preparedness to think laterally and logically, then backs themselves with dedication and quiet confidence. No fluff, no tantrums, sensible task rotation when unexpected delays waiting for parts . . . this is a case study in project management!

Having done this work or similar on a range of Jaguars, my admiration jumped into overdrive when the impact (!) of the damaged frame barred fixing of the replacement cross-member. Watching someone walk the walk of a complex job is one thing . . . watching them deal with a kick in the guts is quite another. Ask me how I know!

Our admiration for Elinor's achievement is unlimited. Brilliant work; great notes and pics; and our sincere thanks, Elinor, for sharing all this with everyone here. Congrats also to Greg, Grant, Doug, Dave . . . because your encouragement and quiet advice oozes from between Elinor's posts.

Two tasks remain . . .

• to the Mods; this thread must be elevated to the Stickys because it fills a gap from which so many members will now draw encouragement . . . perhaps with a note to the effect of this being an example of how to construct a really informative “How to” write-up;
  
• to Elinor; we who salute you and your achievement, get to pay you the ultimate accolade - “We knew her before she became famous” . . .
  

Cheers,
Ken

 

GEEZE, Ken!!
You Embarrass me with this 'Walk On Water' review!
Thank you very much, but Geeze!!
No One is that good!

I could Not have done this without the Invaluable advice and support from those far more experienced than I am.

And as I have mentioned here a few times, I Never want to do this again!
(';')

 

Hahaha . . . nah, didn't set out to embarrass you . . . nor did I say that you were that good!
(How's that fer bringin' yer back to earth?)

However, the write-up really is brilliant, and your work deserves to be applauded.

Cheers,

 

It occurred to me in the middle of the night, that I had neglected to post how I Finally got the suspension to *Settle* so the car was supported by the springs at its natural ride height and Not the new bushings,which would seriously shorten their life.

The front was too high by a couple inches, and it drove like it had 700 pounds of brown sugar in the trunk.

BEFORE final tightening of lower wishbones and sway bar bushings (nuts secured so they couldn't fall off), I drove the car a few miles. to be SURE it has settled. When I saw from driver seat that the nose had dropped, I knew it was Right!

Then, without jacking it up again (which would obviously drop the suspension) drove it over a hole so I could get under and torque properly. Driving up on ramps might work but I didn't have that option.

Now, with well and truly Settled suspension, the front measures 22-1/2 inches to the center of the outer headlight, the extra 1/2 inch easily explained by good and proper wishbone bushings.

So, if you're doing this, take your car for a drive, even out on the freeway a few miles to be Sure the suspension is settled to it's proper height, supported by the Springs and not the bushings, AND THEN torque it all down.
(';')