I was changing my Transmission Fluid and noticed that the Transmission Mount/Rear Engine Mounting appears to be shot. Don't know that it is, but looks that way to me. I attach a couple pictures. I think the "Spool" bushing is gone. Can someone confirm. Very hard to see in the dark. Also there is some kind of short crossmember steel bar with holes and nuts on either end that I cannot find a reference to in the parts diagrams (I have the parts diagrams book). It looks like there should be some kind of bushing or grommet for these holes, but I cannot find a description of these parts. Does anyone have parts number references to what appears to be missing? Is that bar just "egged" out?


The nut on the steel bar that I can't find reference to

Missing "Spool" Bushing?

 

You need two of the C32461 mounts and a CAC3227 insulator.



Here's a pic of those small support straps and the small insulators. I've never thought they were big enough to do much good....but that's just me



Cheers
DD

 

The CAC3227 insulator (cotton reel) i ended up using polyurethane as the rubber type will crap out again easily, you may already know this but an easy trick to get it all back together - the center spring assem/ - is jack it up with a "U" shape timber or metal accessory (can't buy it you have to make it) saves busted knuckles and a lot of cussin"

 

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Hi @xjtom . I saw a mention of that U-Shape lifting thing somewhere, but couldn't understand exactly how it is supposed to help. Can you supply some rough dimensions? Then what purpose the "U" Shaped timber serves. I imagine for putting on the bolt on the bottom of the spring contraption, but I don't know. So if you could explain the purposes and general dimensions of such a thing I can build what I need. Really need all the easy tricks I can get.

 

below is a pic i did last night of the accessory, you can make with any material but wood is easy and cheap, wood doesn't need to be any bigger than 4 X 1 1/2 inch or 3 X 1 1/2inch, when in place with a jack you apply a little upward pressure so then you can access the lock nut on the spring assembly shaft, after you lower the jack then move the U block forward (usually under the pan) to support the gearbox so you can release all other mounting bolts etc, fitting is reverse.

 

Thanks so much Tom!

 

I finished the work. I initially suspected a problem because the car would kind of clunk or shudder when put into reverse. I suspected transmission mount and sure enough the spool thing was gone and the side mounts were drooping. It's all been replaced with new and it went together fairly easily. I marked everything so I am pretty sure I put it together right. But interestingly when I took it out for a shakedown, the clunk/thud feeling when shifting to reverse was still there, more pronounced if anything and also accompanied by a slight "whine" noise at low speed. I've been reading threads and the possible causes are u-joints and so forth. So I want to address those issues so people who are trying to help me get an accurate picture. The "Clunk" or "Thud" is really only going into reverse. It is far more of a feeling than a noise. It is more pronounced with my foot on the brake when shifting to reverse. Meaning if my foot is off the brake on flat ground not moving when I shift the clunk is less noticeable but still present. When foot is on brake under same conditions the sensation is much more pronounced. The "whine" is a bit odd, because I'd never heard it before replacing the transmission mount. The "whine" occurs in forward not reverse and really only at lower speed. Goes away at higher speed. Car runs normally otherwise.

Thoughts? Obviously I'm thinking the mount is done wrong somehow as the clunk is kind of worse and the whine is new after the work. I just went and looked and I have a question that might answer. P/N 35666 is like a round plate thingy that goes on top of the spacers. I noticed that one side of that part is flat and the other is kind of concave/convex/curved. I have that curved side facing down. Is that right. That's the way it came out, I think?

I know it is possible to put it together backwards or with missing bits. So what part can be put together backwards? Everyone says that you can put it together backwards but no one says how it can be assembled backwards. The spool thing was missing so when I took off the bracket at the bottom the sleeves (that go in the spool) and the washer just fell out. I put them back by putting one sleeve on top of the spool fallowed by the washer then the spool then the other sleeve from the bottom followed by the retaining washer and nut.

 

How did the "U" shape support work for you?........did you replace the small rubbers shown in the pic, they're a bit like shocker rubbers? these will make a knock noise as well, the assembly of the cotton reel shaft, the washer you mentioned does only go one way as shown in the pic, you can see a couple of round indents and an outer step, not the easiest assembly to put together but long as you followed the sequence as in the pic it should be ok,
The 'thud" could be a few things, if gearbox mount all lined up ok then check the center bearing assembly for the drive shaft, it's prone for rubber to disintegrate and allow upward movement, the driveshaft center bear housing comes very close the floor pan, not much room for error, if it is uni joins you'd be getting more of a metallic sound and even a drive shaft vibration while driving,
did you drop the drive shaft gearbox end to do the mount rubbers? wouldn't need to....the washer you mentioned i've seen upside down & at the bottom, just print out the diagram assembly & do a visual on what you did........the whining noise is gears, could be auto or diff

 

Hi Tom, I ended up not using the U Shaped thing. I have an engine support that I can stretch across the engine bay and hook to the back engine hook so I did that and it held the engine up. From there I followed the Shop Manual (of all things) and took that center bolt off first. That meant that the only support I needed for the mount was when taking the four mounting bolts off, so I used a bit of 2 x 4 lumber with a hole drilled in the middle to accomodate the now bolt-less center support put it on a jack and removed the four bld and let it down and Bob's your mother's brother. It was fairly easy actually.

That "Thud" I think I am concluding is because my Idle Speed is too high. It isn't metallic at all. It's almost like a lurch.

I'm not sure how to determine that. I've read, I think, that it should be around 750 rpm. When in Park or Neutral mine is around 950-1000. In gear with foot on the brake idles around 750-800 so I'm not sure how to measure it. I read this might be caused by a Vacuum leak, but all my vacuum hoses were replaced with silicone ones two years ago. I'm wondering if the hose going to the cruise control bellows might cause that because I'm pretty sure that bellows is not working right. Also, I noticed that if my foot is on the brake but not really pressed down all the way it lurches or thuds more noticeably than when the brake is pushed down hard in which case it the thud kind of goes away and the lurch is much less pronounced.

The whining I am beginning to think is my imagination. It sounds like an old MG in a movie from the 60s. The guy in the movie Battle of Britain (Christopher Plummer) had a car that he drives off makes this sound. I don't know how to describe it. Not really a whine, kinda like a whirr or grrrrr but faint.

 

well sounds a bit too high in idle rpm, keep in mind it will be a little higher when cold & will give a thump* when dropped into gear, after the engine has warmed up & cold fast idle should be off does it still thump into revers?......if you suspect vacuum leaks - just block off vacuum lines one by one till you find a potential culprit.
i thought i had posted some pics so i'll try again, this is about the rubbers on the g/box mount....did you replace them?

 

Hi Tom, Yes, I did my best to replace what was there. Most of the parts on the diagram for that bad spot are no longer available anywhere. And a complicating factor was that the metal bar (CAC2837) had its holes on the ends pretty "egged out" from years of motion and that bar itself was worn down. I was able to get CAC2840 from NOS and existing CAC2870 and C3968 were fused together and slid nicely into my new CAC2840 so it took up the egged out hole. The O-Rings weren't available so I went fishing in my pile of O-Rings and cobbled together something that when tightened down served as an insulator. How long that lasts is anyone's guess, but it has survived my test drives so far.

 

I had to replace the rubbers on mine ages ago, hard to get but what does fit are front - lower shocker rubbers form earlier Fords, i know i'm quoting Australian cars but most Fords world wider are the same in shocker system, even better the rubbers come in packs of 4. if you wanted to check 'em out i'm guessing a store like AutoZone might have them....ignore the #'s on the rubber