On 4/17/16 I posted a "NO SPARK" issue which was resolved by replacing the Ignition Module(Interchange for 10482820) in the Amplifier.
Well, Here we go again. "NO SPARK". Cause? Failed Module.
I took the module to Advance Auto where they have the Test Equipment and as before the module failed the test.
Knowing that a faulty Ignition Coil can fry Ignition Modules, I purchased a new Lucas Ignition Coil- DLB102 and a new Ignition Module- CBE 4P which cross-referenced with 10482820.
I installed the new coil and module and I still had a NO SPARK condition.
With the key in the "ON" position I had 12v on the + side of the coil but only 3.57v on the - side, and the coil got hot.
Upon removal of the white wire from the amp to the + side of the coil, the 12v was restored to the - side of the coil.
I reinstalled the old coil and it was doing the same as the new coil.
Here are some numbers generated during testing.

PICKUP COIL: Resistance @20k = 0.L; @200K fluctuates between 88.7 and 110.3 ohms. I don't have a DVOM that freezes the readings.
Ignition Coil: + terminal =12v; - terminal = 3.57v.
Remove module from equation, 12v on both + and - terminals.

CONCLUSION? Faulty Module? Faulty coil/s? Both coil and module faulty?

Prior to me posting this, I reinstalled and connected the faulty module and I have 12v on both terminals of the ignition coil.
Reinstalled the new module and I have 12v on the + terminal and 3.57v on the - terminal of the coil.
I am entertaining any and all ideas.
Next stop, I am reading that there is a Petronix ignition pickup that eliminates the GM module. Will do some research after this post.

 

A bit blind. But, the heat comment is significant.
A short, somewhere, in there. Wires from the pickup to the
module or inside the distributor.


Access to a known good distributor for a swap might be in order...


Carli

 

After checking, the Lucas coil DLB 170 is incorrect. The resistance reading across the pos and neg terminals is 3+ ohms. As per the info I have, the correct coil resistance reading should be 1.5 ohms or less.
Needless to say, Advance, Oriellys, Autozone and Napa have come up empty on a coil with a resistance reading of less than 1.5 ohms.
I also read on the forum that someone used a DLB198 coil. This coil apparently is no longer made or rather QUOTE "this coil used to be round and is no longer made. In it's place is a square coil". (Advance Auto Website at store).
CHASING MY OWN SHADOW:
I reinstalled a known good GM module (with the capacitor/condenser disconnected)and my old ignition coil, checked my distributor pickup (it generates AC voltage so I rule that out as the problem)
Result: No spark.
I also read a post by Doug, where he wrote that one of the tests to perform was the simplest of all so I never did it. " CONNECT A JUMPER FROM THE + TERMINAL OF THE BATTERY TO THE + TERMINAL OF THE COIL"
Upon connecting the coil directly to the battery I have spark and was able to start the car.
The capacitor/condenser was shorting out my ignition modules to ground.
Now that I believe I have the issue of the module dying resolved??????, I need to move on to the issue of power to the coil.
1)Does the 1984 Series 3 have an ignition relay? If so, Where is it located? I can't find it in any of the books or electrical schematics I have.
2) I am going to be looking at my ignition switch to see if I am losing power to the coil there. In the past, I had noticed that sometimes, not all the time, the engine would start only when I released the key from the crank position and sometimes it would start in the crank position as it should normally do, but I never thought anything of it until now.
I will be checking the complete ignition circuitry but I need to know if I have an ignition relay.
If it is the ignition switch I will be looking for a new or good used one from David at EverydayXJ.

 

Great!!!


I claim co-ownership of the Jump 12v to coil + move. I've used it on various critters way back when.


2. The capacitor condensor is there merely to quash RF's noise in the radio. Once used with point ignition, "point and condenser" was the term. Rare nowadays. Except in my one lung engines..


3. Definitely check out the ignition switch. Kinda punt to start with
add years of use, then compound with a heavy key ring.


Just overcame a lot of stuff on my car by an ignition switch swap.
Great condition used unit via David Boger.


Carl

 

Puny not punt. but somehow indicative!!!

 

Co-ownership acknowledged. So, like I said, I used a jumper from battery to coil and the car started.
I removed the jumper and now the car starts on its own. No jumper needed.
I definitely have an intermittent connection somewhere.
Now, where is the ignition relay? I believe I can find the ignition switch on my own lol.
Started the car and charged up my AC system with R12. Nice and cold.
I will contact David sometime tomorrow to see what he has available.
Thank you Carl.

 

The DLB170 should be about 1.0 ohm. My experience is that they work well on the 4.2 CEI engines.



Inside the amplifier case, right?


No.

Yes.



It has an 'ignition protection relay' in the dash. But it doesn't have anything to do with engine ignition. It simply powers up several circuits (wipers, rear defog, and the like) to 'protect' the ignition switch




Ignition switch failures are common and becoming more so as the cars age.

Some have opened up the switch for repair and/or contact cleaning.

If that doesn't work......

I hate suggesting that David be cut out of a possible sale, because he's a such great asset to us, but I'd go with a new switch if you can swing the $100 or so cost. A used one may well be nearly as worn as your existing one.

Cheers
DD

 

@Doug, Thanks for that info.
The DLB 170 that I purchased, had a resistance reading of over 3 ohms. Checked and double checked. That coil would get really hot within 30 seconds of the ignition being 'on'. I took it back to the store and they also checked it and it read over 3 ohms.
About purchasing a used switch, I agree with you that the used switch may have the same wear as mine, being the same age.
I will see what the Jaguar parts supplier have to offer.
I have spent so much on this car that another bit would not hurt.
I know the cost of getting these cars running right, but I think it's worth every penny spent.

 

Gee, now, I wonder if the one I got from David is from his
NOS stock. Sure is clean and tight!!!


I am as pleased as punch!!!


So much stuff just works so much better. Including radio
"drop outs"!!


Carl

 

PS, not aware that new ones were available. NOS or ? repro's ?


Carl

 

I'm not doubting you

I was wondering if the new coil was simply out-of-spec.

Was it a Lucas coil, or other brand?

Increasingly we're seeing problems with ignition coils. Substituted designs and brands not being correct spec and/or not working well and/or not lasting long. Even the Lucas-labeled coils are giving trouble, actually, since Lucas sold-off it's automotive operations to another company.

Cheers
DD

 

Yes, it was a Lucas coil. DLB170 as per the label on the box and coil.
I will be looking for a coil that meets the specs. In the meantime, I am using the old coil sparingly, just in case it is the coil that is causing my module to short out.

 

Ignition Coil part number: DLB102 $24.95 Ignition coil for XJ6 (1970-1987).
This is the info from Welsh.
Part # is different.
Is this the correct part#?

 

You want the 198 not the 102

Scroll down thru this thread about 102 vs 198 coils

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...l-pump-147162/

also here
Ignition Coil Usage on Series III XJ6

Cheers
DD

 

From Coventry West Website:
"Switch; Ignition Electrical; requires splicing. Unfortunately, the original switch with the factory style connector is not currently available. This switch works just fine as long as you splice the electrical connector from your old switch to this one".
This new switch cost $69.95.
I will speak to them tomorrow to find out whether it is an aftermarket replacement.
Has anyone purchased this switch? Any feedback?

 

Probably from some other brand of British car.

I've never used one but is sounds easy enough.

Lucas sold its automotive division to another company years ago who use the 'Lucas' name under license. So, in essence, any Lucas parts you buy nowadays are 'aftermarket'.

Cheers
DD

 

if you Google 'DAC1607 Jaguar' you gets lots of hits for the switch in original configuration. They sure have gotten expensive, tho !

Naturally you have to contact the vendor(s) to verify availability

Cheers
DD