How to remove passenger front fender/quarter panel?
#1
How to remove passenger front fender/quarter panel?
Hi guys,
I'm trying to figure out how to remove the passenger side front quarter panel, and I can't figure out what bolts i'm missing. I undid all the bolts under the hood along the seam, and could wiggle the panel a little bit, but I didn't see any other bolts anywhere else which would suggest I need to loosen.
Which other ones am I missing that I need to undo? Also, the panel just rearward, under the passenger side door needs to be attended to as well. How do I go about removing that one too?
any help would be much appreciated.
thanks!
I'm trying to figure out how to remove the passenger side front quarter panel, and I can't figure out what bolts i'm missing. I undid all the bolts under the hood along the seam, and could wiggle the panel a little bit, but I didn't see any other bolts anywhere else which would suggest I need to loosen.
Which other ones am I missing that I need to undo? Also, the panel just rearward, under the passenger side door needs to be attended to as well. How do I go about removing that one too?
any help would be much appreciated.
thanks!
#2
There are some more bolts under the wing at the rear fixing the wing to the body. If you look under the wing between the wing/fender and the inner wing and clean the accumulated dirt off you should be able to see them.
If you mean the sills under the doors then they are welded on and will need cutting off and rewelding on.
If you mean the sills under the doors then they are welded on and will need cutting off and rewelding on.
#3
There are two bolts which attach the fender to the sill located behind the splash panel at the rear of the front wheel well. Remove the bolts securing the splash panel and remove it to access them.
There are two bolts securing the back vertical flange of the fender to the A-pillar near the front door hinge mounts.
There is the row of bolts running along the top under the bonnet which you already removed.
There are two bolts securing the front vertical flange of the fender to the front inner fender accessed from inside the wheel well.
Finally, there are two bolts which attach the lower front fender below the bumper to the lower valence running under the radiator support.
Also, the front bumper side piece is bolted to a brace. The bolt passes through the fender and must be removed.
A shop manual is the thing to have for this kind of work.
There are two bolts securing the back vertical flange of the fender to the A-pillar near the front door hinge mounts.
There is the row of bolts running along the top under the bonnet which you already removed.
There are two bolts securing the front vertical flange of the fender to the front inner fender accessed from inside the wheel well.
Finally, there are two bolts which attach the lower front fender below the bumper to the lower valence running under the radiator support.
Also, the front bumper side piece is bolted to a brace. The bolt passes through the fender and must be removed.
A shop manual is the thing to have for this kind of work.
#4
thanks you guys -- i'll give it a try. Do i need to remove the entire front bumper first? And the hood spring? I didn't remove the wheel splash guard, so it sounds like once that is off, the bolts which hold it to the frame will be revealed.
I need to get a shop manual -- all i have is an electric specific manual, and even that isn't the best (its not as nice as my Chevy shop manuals thats for sure... very hard to see pictures and drawings.)
Thanks again,
Tyler
I need to get a shop manual -- all i have is an electric specific manual, and even that isn't the best (its not as nice as my Chevy shop manuals thats for sure... very hard to see pictures and drawings.)
Thanks again,
Tyler
#5
Hi Tyler
As I recall, you don't need to remove the hood spring, but the bolts inside the front door shut face can be awkward, plus, you have to take off the closing panel at the back of the wing (US=fender) to get at the hidden lower fixing bolts. There are also bolts securing the lower front valance to each wing, again to be undone. Those in the salt-spray firing line can be very awkward to free off.
As I recall, you don't need to remove the hood spring, but the bolts inside the front door shut face can be awkward, plus, you have to take off the closing panel at the back of the wing (US=fender) to get at the hidden lower fixing bolts. There are also bolts securing the lower front valance to each wing, again to be undone. Those in the salt-spray firing line can be very awkward to free off.
#6
You need to remove the bumper in order to get the fender off the car. The hood spring is attached to the fender so it needs to come off too. Removing the splash guard will give access to the two bolts at the sill.
QUOTE=tylerwerrin;752938]thanks you guys -- i'll give it a try. Do i need to remove the entire front bumper first? And the hood spring? I didn't remove the wheel splash guard, so it sounds like once that is off, the bolts which hold it to the frame will be revealed.
I need to get a shop manual -- all i have is an electric specific manual, and even that isn't the best (its not as nice as my Chevy shop manuals thats for sure... very hard to see pictures and drawings.)
Thanks again,
Tyler[/QUOTE]
QUOTE=tylerwerrin;752938]thanks you guys -- i'll give it a try. Do i need to remove the entire front bumper first? And the hood spring? I didn't remove the wheel splash guard, so it sounds like once that is off, the bolts which hold it to the frame will be revealed.
I need to get a shop manual -- all i have is an electric specific manual, and even that isn't the best (its not as nice as my Chevy shop manuals thats for sure... very hard to see pictures and drawings.)
Thanks again,
Tyler[/QUOTE]
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Hey, Tyler, it's been a while! Glad to hear from you!! Working on that classic but badly rusted V12?
Two thoughts:
1. If you will not reuse that wing, use the air chisel to open it up and access the tough fasteners. that is how the collision repair pro's do it.
2. The two bolts on the "A" pillar are not all that bad. I used a "racheting" box wrench to remove and replace them when I thought my driver door was a goner. A regular open/box will work, but tedious!!
Carl
Two thoughts:
1. If you will not reuse that wing, use the air chisel to open it up and access the tough fasteners. that is how the collision repair pro's do it.
2. The two bolts on the "A" pillar are not all that bad. I used a "racheting" box wrench to remove and replace them when I thought my driver door was a goner. A regular open/box will work, but tedious!!
Carl
#9
FSM does not instruct how to remove wing
There are two bolts which attach the fender to the sill located behind the splash panel at the rear of the front wheel well. Remove the bolts securing the splash panel and remove it to access them.
There are two bolts securing the back vertical flange of the fender to the A-pillar near the front door hinge mounts.
There is the row of bolts running along the top under the bonnet which you already removed.
There are two bolts securing the front vertical flange of the fender to the front inner fender accessed from inside the wheel well.
Finally, there are two bolts which attach the lower front fender below the bumper to the lower valence running under the radiator support.
Also, the front bumper side piece is bolted to a brace. The bolt passes through the fender and must be removed.
A shop manual is the thing to have for this kind of work.
There are two bolts securing the back vertical flange of the fender to the A-pillar near the front door hinge mounts.
There is the row of bolts running along the top under the bonnet which you already removed.
There are two bolts securing the front vertical flange of the fender to the front inner fender accessed from inside the wheel well.
Finally, there are two bolts which attach the lower front fender below the bumper to the lower valence running under the radiator support.
Also, the front bumper side piece is bolted to a brace. The bolt passes through the fender and must be removed.
A shop manual is the thing to have for this kind of work.
Spoiler
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MC36
US Lower Atlantic
0
09-01-2015 08:34 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)