ignition switch
#1
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I really need some help to change out the ignition switch. Removing it from the column is driving me nuts.
It was mentioned that mine has breakaway keepers. Which I can believe, due to the fact that they look like they were pressed in.
How do I get them out? Or break them? I broke the metal around 1 of them and tried to beat it out and break it. No luck. Can someone please give me an idea or pointers Please.
It was mentioned that mine has breakaway keepers. Which I can believe, due to the fact that they look like they were pressed in.
How do I get them out? Or break them? I broke the metal around 1 of them and tried to beat it out and break it. No luck. Can someone please give me an idea or pointers Please.
#3
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Just did that!!! They are not pressed in. They are screwed in.
You might check on of the suppliers here for illustrations in their catalogs.
Unbroken replacements are available.
They are a bit hard to see in situ. The remaining screw head resembles a
cone with the point flattened. It is that shoulder that affords any purchase
to apply CCW torque to remove it. Mine were not at all tight.
I used a wire nut as in house wiring. It was a bit soft and afforded just the right taper. I drilled a small hole across the long axis. A nail went there as a lever.
The rear one is done purely by feel. It did not seem to work as I felt little or no resistance. But, surprise, it was and came out nicely.
I reused the rear one, but subbed in an Allen headed bolt for the front one.
I've little fear of a car thief going through all that to steal my car!!!
Convenience. I jacked up the front of my car and placed jack stands under it to
improve the working condition under the scuttle. I don't bend as well at 86 as I once did.
Good used switch via David Boger works so much better....
Carl
You might check on of the suppliers here for illustrations in their catalogs.
Unbroken replacements are available.
They are a bit hard to see in situ. The remaining screw head resembles a
cone with the point flattened. It is that shoulder that affords any purchase
to apply CCW torque to remove it. Mine were not at all tight.
I used a wire nut as in house wiring. It was a bit soft and afforded just the right taper. I drilled a small hole across the long axis. A nail went there as a lever.
The rear one is done purely by feel. It did not seem to work as I felt little or no resistance. But, surprise, it was and came out nicely.
I reused the rear one, but subbed in an Allen headed bolt for the front one.
I've little fear of a car thief going through all that to steal my car!!!
Convenience. I jacked up the front of my car and placed jack stands under it to
improve the working condition under the scuttle. I don't bend as well at 86 as I once did.
Good used switch via David Boger works so much better....
Carl
#5
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Are you wanting to remove the ignition switch or the steering column lock? The former has all the electrical function; the latter does not
The ignition switch simply slides onto the back of the steering column lock assembly and is held in place by a tiny set-screw.
The 'shear bolts' come into question only if removing the lock assembly
Cheers
DD
The ignition switch simply slides onto the back of the steering column lock assembly and is held in place by a tiny set-screw.
The 'shear bolts' come into question only if removing the lock assembly
Cheers
DD
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This is a good pic showing the switch, the lock, and the shear bolts
Ignition Switch/Steering Column Lock - Parts For Series III Saloon | Jaguar Heritage Parts UK
Cheers
DD
Ignition Switch/Steering Column Lock - Parts For Series III Saloon | Jaguar Heritage Parts UK
Cheers
DD
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Doug:
Yup. when I got the old one out, I conducted a necropsy. Teeny screw,
an understatement. My chances to do that in situ rated as zero. but, I recognize that
others have managed it.
So, as David's switch was intact, that is how I installed it, lock and all!!
Added key, a minor inconvenience.
So, if the assembly Amaezing got from the bone yard is a complete assembly, that would be my recommendation, swap t all.
The electric connectors are a snap. Mine now has a key in warning buzzer. when my hearing aids are in, I hear it, o'wise, mebbe!!
Carl
Yup. when I got the old one out, I conducted a necropsy. Teeny screw,
an understatement. My chances to do that in situ rated as zero. but, I recognize that
others have managed it.
So, as David's switch was intact, that is how I installed it, lock and all!!
Added key, a minor inconvenience.
So, if the assembly Amaezing got from the bone yard is a complete assembly, that would be my recommendation, swap t all.
The electric connectors are a snap. Mine now has a key in warning buzzer. when my hearing aids are in, I hear it, o'wise, mebbe!!
Carl
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#9
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from another post:
![](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAAdIAAABCCAMAAADUr6fzAAAAAXNSR0ICQMB9xQAAAANQTFRFAAAAp3o92gAAAAF0Uk5TAEDm2GYAAAAJcEhZcwAADsQAAA7EAZUrDhsAAAAZdEVYdFNvZnR3YXJlAE1pY3Jvc29mdCBPZmZpY2V/7TVxAAAANUlEQVR42u3BMQEAAADCoPVPbQwfoAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAgI8BeGYAASSq3aEAAAAASUVORK5CYII=)
Patrick Cherry writes:
My 'main' set of keys to my 1982 California-spec XJ6 was stolen last year. Wife has been using the 'spare' set of keys. Now the 'spare' key is missing in action. Dealer says he 'cannot even get key blanks for something that old' much less cut a key with only the vin. The local locksmith says he can cut a new key if I can bring him the cylinder (or the complete car...but if I could drive the car, I wouldn't be posting this, would I???). Can someone please advise me how to remove the ignition switch assembly? I have dropped the bezel and disconnected the electrics. There are two peened pins where the steering lock part of the ignition switch enters the steering column; do I have to drill those out? Do I have alternatives? TIA, Patrick Cherry
From Alan Howard:
It is quite easy to remove the steering lock. The 2 peened head screws are in fact bolts that had a very narrow machined taper below the head so that when tightening the heads shear off too prevent theft. To undo these screws just use a small chisel and hammer and they will come undone easily, sometimes they are loose already. You may find that with the 2 bolts removed you will not have enough room to pull the lock assembly all the way out. You will have to lower the steering column a small amount. To lower the column look up underneath and you will see 2 bolts that hold the column in place, loosen these bolts as much as possible but do not remove them because there are all sorts of spacers and rubber bushes there to fall out. With these 2 bolts loosened you will just have enough room to withdraw the lock. With the lock out you will see a small Pillips head screw that holds the actual ignition switch onto the back of the lock, remove this and then pull out the switch. Inside the recess where the switch was you will see a paper sticker, the key code is written on this sticker. take this to a locksmith and they will easily and cheaply be able to cut a new key.
http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/ignlock.htm
Removing Ignition Lock
Alan Howard
Patrick Cherry writes:
My 'main' set of keys to my 1982 California-spec XJ6 was stolen last year. Wife has been using the 'spare' set of keys. Now the 'spare' key is missing in action. Dealer says he 'cannot even get key blanks for something that old' much less cut a key with only the vin. The local locksmith says he can cut a new key if I can bring him the cylinder (or the complete car...but if I could drive the car, I wouldn't be posting this, would I???). Can someone please advise me how to remove the ignition switch assembly? I have dropped the bezel and disconnected the electrics. There are two peened pins where the steering lock part of the ignition switch enters the steering column; do I have to drill those out? Do I have alternatives? TIA, Patrick Cherry
From Alan Howard:
It is quite easy to remove the steering lock. The 2 peened head screws are in fact bolts that had a very narrow machined taper below the head so that when tightening the heads shear off too prevent theft. To undo these screws just use a small chisel and hammer and they will come undone easily, sometimes they are loose already. You may find that with the 2 bolts removed you will not have enough room to pull the lock assembly all the way out. You will have to lower the steering column a small amount. To lower the column look up underneath and you will see 2 bolts that hold the column in place, loosen these bolts as much as possible but do not remove them because there are all sorts of spacers and rubber bushes there to fall out. With these 2 bolts loosened you will just have enough room to withdraw the lock. With the lock out you will see a small Pillips head screw that holds the actual ignition switch onto the back of the lock, remove this and then pull out the switch. Inside the recess where the switch was you will see a paper sticker, the key code is written on this sticker. take this to a locksmith and they will easily and cheaply be able to cut a new key.
http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/ignlock.htm
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littlelic69 (12-03-2015)
#10
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this is exactly the information I was looking for. Thank you all very very much.
It is a complete assembly and I am switching the entire thing, especially since you all have giving me the information to do it successfully as I knew you would.
I was out all day yesterday so I didn't get to it, but I will today and I look forward to putting all the parts back on the column so it won't look like i just stole it.
If I happened to get pulled over right now, it would be alot of explaining.
It is a complete assembly and I am switching the entire thing, especially since you all have giving me the information to do it successfully as I knew you would.
I was out all day yesterday so I didn't get to it, but I will today and I look forward to putting all the parts back on the column so it won't look like i just stole it.
If I happened to get pulled over right now, it would be alot of explaining.
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Amaezing:
Tis a great feeling, is it not. Fault found, solution found, executed!!!!
for the completion of the archival record, it would help if you posted the method you used to remove the "breakaway" screws and what you used to replace them.
I've read of punches and needle nosed pliers. I used a wire nut based tool!!!
Carl
Tis a great feeling, is it not. Fault found, solution found, executed!!!!
for the completion of the archival record, it would help if you posted the method you used to remove the "breakaway" screws and what you used to replace them.
I've read of punches and needle nosed pliers. I used a wire nut based tool!!!
Carl
#13
#14
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Amaezing:
Tis a great feeling, is it not. Fault found, solution found, executed!!!!
for the completion of the archival record, it would help if you posted the method you used to remove the "breakaway" screws and what you used to replace them.
I've read of punches and needle nosed pliers. I used a wire nut based tool!!!
Carl
Tis a great feeling, is it not. Fault found, solution found, executed!!!!
for the completion of the archival record, it would help if you posted the method you used to remove the "breakaway" screws and what you used to replace them.
I've read of punches and needle nosed pliers. I used a wire nut based tool!!!
Carl
I should mention that the bolts where put in with red lock tight so those first hits were done several times until the seal got broke. Again, patients.
I hope this can help someone else in the future. In all honesty, it was a stupid idea to do this from the factory for theft control. I mean come on, the wire plug is right there and if I were going to steal it, I'd hot wire it in about five seconds rather than going thru all this stupidity.
#15
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Ghetto or no ghetto, it worked
Breakaways not really that bad an idea. True, the connector can be readily opened and the engine cranked and fired with a paper clip or two!!!
But, the steering remains locked!!! I do suspect that an application of a lot of torque would bend the locking pin and allow steering.
Would the average car thief do this, probably not now. Back then, oh yeah....
In the early 70's I worked for an insurance company housed on the Wilshire corridor of La, Ca.
One of the HR VP's had a new Jaguar. Unfortunately, a "stuffed shirt" type.
A lot of us viewed him as unproductive overhead!!
SOG, a thief or two got into the basement garage and made off with his prize.
Thieves never caught, car never recovered????
Carl
Breakaways not really that bad an idea. True, the connector can be readily opened and the engine cranked and fired with a paper clip or two!!!
But, the steering remains locked!!! I do suspect that an application of a lot of torque would bend the locking pin and allow steering.
Would the average car thief do this, probably not now. Back then, oh yeah....
In the early 70's I worked for an insurance company housed on the Wilshire corridor of La, Ca.
One of the HR VP's had a new Jaguar. Unfortunately, a "stuffed shirt" type.
A lot of us viewed him as unproductive overhead!!
SOG, a thief or two got into the basement garage and made off with his prize.
Thieves never caught, car never recovered????
Carl
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