Jaguar XJ6 fuel pump relay
#2
Firstly welcome to the Forums.
Which part of our Island are you located?
When you sort the relay, please do an Intro in the New Members Area.
Memory???, mine were alongside the starter relay on the firewall, near where the guard brace attached, between that bolt and the brake booster.
Remember, that relay is Earthed via a "reverse" oil switch, meaning NO oil pressure, NO earth, NO fuel pump. The switch is on the side of the engine. Some are near the oil filter housing, some are under the steer pump mount bracket. These fail often, and many hours can be spent chasing ghosts.
Which part of our Island are you located?
When you sort the relay, please do an Intro in the New Members Area.
Memory???, mine were alongside the starter relay on the firewall, near where the guard brace attached, between that bolt and the brake booster.
Remember, that relay is Earthed via a "reverse" oil switch, meaning NO oil pressure, NO earth, NO fuel pump. The switch is on the side of the engine. Some are near the oil filter housing, some are under the steer pump mount bracket. These fail often, and many hours can be spent chasing ghosts.
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Ashkan Zandieh (12-06-2019)
#3
#5
OK, if one pump works and the other does not, it is NOT the relay, or that oil switch.
The power goes FROM that relay TO the dash changeover switch,and then to the selected gauge sender and pump.
Mine were all S2 6cyl, that I used in the 1st answer, all my V12's had it located on the rad support panel.
I have a schematics somewhere, and when I find it, I will return.
I remember posting it in here not long ago for another member.
The power goes FROM that relay TO the dash changeover switch,and then to the selected gauge sender and pump.
Mine were all S2 6cyl, that I used in the 1st answer, all my V12's had it located on the rad support panel.
I have a schematics somewhere, and when I find it, I will return.
I remember posting it in here not long ago for another member.
#7
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#8
Classic Ignition switch electrical section needing a good clean and relube. Might even sort, or help, the fuel pump issue.
Many, many posts on here about doing that simple fix.
Fuel leak, NAH, but there should be NO fuel leak, no matter what, so fix that before the things catches fire. FACT.
Many, many posts on here about doing that simple fix.
Fuel leak, NAH, but there should be NO fuel leak, no matter what, so fix that before the things catches fire. FACT.
#9
#11
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Ashkan Zandiyeh (01-29-2020)
#12
I finished the restoration of my Series III last year and am still doing small fixes. Fuel pumps replaced during restoration.
When the car is running, it is very smooth - just as a Jaguar should be. When it has been standing for some time, I have to crank the engine for several minutes before the fuel pumps cut in -often after the battery has lost power. If it gets to that stage and the engine starts, it runs very well indeed
I have been told that the engine pressure needs to get to a certain point before the fuel pumps start to work. Could my problem be the relay or do I need to look in another direction ?
Guidance would be welcomed.
Oh, I have been restoring classics for over 20 years and have covered the ubiquitous MGB, MG1100, Humbers - super snipe,Hawk and recently a 1951 Pullman Limo, Rileys RMF, RME, Elf, 1500 in progress and Pathfinder waiting. Also, Rover P4, Rover P6, and worked on many others for friends. But this is my first XJ6 !!!
Tom
The following users liked this post:
Ashkan Zandiyeh (01-29-2020)
#13
#14
Hello - Just joined the forum from Scotland.
I finished the restoration of my Series III last year and am still doing small fixes. Fuel pumps replaced during restoration.
When the car is running, it is very smooth - just as a Jaguar should be. When it has been standing for some time, I have to crank the engine for several minutes before the fuel pumps cut in -often after the battery has lost power. If it gets to that stage and the engine starts, it runs very well indeed
I have been told that the engine pressure needs to get to a certain point before the fuel pumps start to work. Could my problem be the relay or do I need to look in another direction ? Guidance would be welcomed. this is my first XJ6 !!!Tom
I finished the restoration of my Series III last year and am still doing small fixes. Fuel pumps replaced during restoration.
When the car is running, it is very smooth - just as a Jaguar should be. When it has been standing for some time, I have to crank the engine for several minutes before the fuel pumps cut in -often after the battery has lost power. If it gets to that stage and the engine starts, it runs very well indeed
I have been told that the engine pressure needs to get to a certain point before the fuel pumps start to work. Could my problem be the relay or do I need to look in another direction ? Guidance would be welcomed. this is my first XJ6 !!!Tom
try pressurizing the fuel system before starting the engine. How?
1) place the shifter in 1 or D.
2) turn the key to START and hold it there for 3 to 5 seconds, you should hear the fuel pump humming as you hold the ignition switch in the START position. Bring it back to OFF.. then do this 3 or 4 times.
3) then place the shifter in P or N and crank the engine. Should start inmediately.
that's how I do it in my 1984 (built in 1983), and it starts right away.
also make sure the battery is fully charged, these cars like a lot of electrical juice.
Last edited by Jose; 01-29-2020 at 06:40 AM.
#15
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Hi !
Since you mention "pumps" (plural) it sounds like you must have the 3.4 engine (carburetors) rather than 4.2 engine (fuel injection).
As far as I know, yes, there is an oil pressure switch in the circuit. Unfortunately I can't readily find a 3.4 wiring diagram to confirm. But, that's how earlier XJs with carburetors were configured.
Cheers
DD
I have been told that the engine pressure needs to get to a certain point before the fuel pumps start to work. Could my problem be the relay or do I need to look in another direction ?
Guidance would be welcomed.
Guidance would be welcomed.
As far as I know, yes, there is an oil pressure switch in the circuit. Unfortunately I can't readily find a 3.4 wiring diagram to confirm. But, that's how earlier XJs with carburetors were configured.
Cheers
DD
#16
Thank you Doug , I was beginning to think it was me !! Yes it is a 3.4 series III- I suspect one of the later ones stripped out of the fancy bits to meet market needs - eg cloth seats rather than leather ones
I tried the suggestion of cranking the motor in first or drive to trigger the fuel pumps , but to no avail - maybe that is a fix with the injection engine ?
Yes, there are two carburettors and two fuel pumps. I looked for the relays on the bulkhead - one greyish and the other orange/reddish. If you feel there is a pressure switch somewhere on the engine, I would be grateful if anyone could give me a suggestion as to where it is and how to check/replace it if it is faulty.
Tried to respond to the other two replies, but sadly could not manipulate the system at that stage - thanks folks
Tom
Tom
I tried the suggestion of cranking the motor in first or drive to trigger the fuel pumps , but to no avail - maybe that is a fix with the injection engine ?
Yes, there are two carburettors and two fuel pumps. I looked for the relays on the bulkhead - one greyish and the other orange/reddish. If you feel there is a pressure switch somewhere on the engine, I would be grateful if anyone could give me a suggestion as to where it is and how to check/replace it if it is faulty.
Tried to respond to the other two replies, but sadly could not manipulate the system at that stage - thanks folks
Tom
Tom
#17
Dear Ashkan,
I suspect the ignition switch is OK as it operates in all positions and instantly cranks the engine. Once the engine is going, there does not seem to be a problem, it is only when it has been stood for a while and the fuel in the carburettors has either dried or drained back to the tanks.
Tom
I suspect the ignition switch is OK as it operates in all positions and instantly cranks the engine. Once the engine is going, there does not seem to be a problem, it is only when it has been stood for a while and the fuel in the carburettors has either dried or drained back to the tanks.
Tom
#18
#19
Thank you Geno - I will give it a go tomorrow to confirm each pump. They do both work very happily once the engine has started - the problem seems to be sending a message from the engine to the pumps to say that the bore pressure has increased to the correct level . - when th engine is running the oil pressure rests at around 60, but of course this does not have a direct bearing on the bore pressure .
Does anyone know how the bore pressure is sent to the pumps ?
In the engine bay, just underneath the coil ( mounted below the manifold of course) and coming out of the loom, there is an 'unconnected' green wire (male) and a separate 'unconnected' green wire with a brown chaser ( female) - the wiring diagrams are so poor in the workshop manuals that I have given up trying to work out what these two wires might be related to - does anyone have any suggestions ? I have attached a photograph in case it gives anyone else a prompt to know what these are for !!
Tom
Tom
Does anyone know how the bore pressure is sent to the pumps ?
In the engine bay, just underneath the coil ( mounted below the manifold of course) and coming out of the loom, there is an 'unconnected' green wire (male) and a separate 'unconnected' green wire with a brown chaser ( female) - the wiring diagrams are so poor in the workshop manuals that I have given up trying to work out what these two wires might be related to - does anyone have any suggestions ? I have attached a photograph in case it gives anyone else a prompt to know what these are for !!
Tom
Tom
#20
Does anyone have any thoughts on my two loose wires? Can anyone with a sIII 3.4 have all look in your engine bay and give me a clue?
I would like to sort this little issue out before going further with the fuel supply problem in case rectifying the loose wires cures the problem , but I don't just want to connect them in case that causes further problems!!
Any help would be welcome because I do not have access to a readable wiring diagram to give me a pointer.
Tom
I would like to sort this little issue out before going further with the fuel supply problem in case rectifying the loose wires cures the problem , but I don't just want to connect them in case that causes further problems!!
Any help would be welcome because I do not have access to a readable wiring diagram to give me a pointer.
Tom