Jaguar XJ6 fuel pump relay
#21
04-21-2021, 02:32 PM
Junior Member
Does anyone have any thoughts on my two loose wires? Can anyone with a sIII 3.4 have all look in your engine bay and give me a clue?
I would like to sort this little issue out before going further with the fuel supply problem in case rectifying the loose wires cures the problem , but I don't just want to connect them in case that causes further problems!!
Any help would be welcome because I do not have access to a readable wiring diagram to give me a pointer.
Tom
I would like to sort this little issue out before going further with the fuel supply problem in case rectifying the loose wires cures the problem , but I don't just want to connect them in case that causes further problems!!
Any help would be welcome because I do not have access to a readable wiring diagram to give me a pointer.
Tom
Did you resolve this issue?
Judging by the photos posted about the oil pressure switch etc. I feel you may have been on the wrong track. There is an oil pressure switch on my 3.4, but it is close to the bellhousing with a green/yellow wire.
However, you have probably fixed it or sold it!
#22
04-22-2021, 03:16 AM
Junior Member
Thank you for the update - no, I never worked out what the two wires were for - they may of course have been for a different application not relevant to my car.
An issue I do have however, is that during long periods of little or no use ( shame) , the fuel seems to drain out of the pipes and back into the tanks thereby making start up a bit of a drain on the battery.
Does anyone know if the 3.4 had non-return valves in the fuel pipework ? If so, where are they and can they be cleaned or replaced??
Tom
An issue I do have however, is that during long periods of little or no use ( shame) , the fuel seems to drain out of the pipes and back into the tanks thereby making start up a bit of a drain on the battery.
Does anyone know if the 3.4 had non-return valves in the fuel pipework ? If so, where are they and can they be cleaned or replaced??
Tom
#23
04-22-2021, 05:14 AM
No idea on the S3 carby cars.
The S2 had that if left for too long, NOT drain back as such, evaporation out of the carbies.
That is why we earthed that relay, then as soon as the Ign was ON, the relay clicked, the pumps ran, filled the carbies with fuel, the beast was alive.
Without that earthing by-pass, the engine needed to be cranked, oil pressure operated that switch, the relay clicked, etc etc.
These cars were never built to be idle that long.
My older carby cars, MK10, S type, etc, that went into part time mode as the Series cars invaded, were good for a month or so with fuel still being in the carby bowls high enough to start the thing. Any longer, and priming was needed. These cars DID NOT have that relay nonsense, turn ON the key, the pump clunked away in the boot, and when the clucking stopped, or slowed, push the start button. SIMPLE.
The S2 had that if left for too long, NOT drain back as such, evaporation out of the carbies.
That is why we earthed that relay, then as soon as the Ign was ON, the relay clicked, the pumps ran, filled the carbies with fuel, the beast was alive.
Without that earthing by-pass, the engine needed to be cranked, oil pressure operated that switch, the relay clicked, etc etc.
These cars were never built to be idle that long.
My older carby cars, MK10, S type, etc, that went into part time mode as the Series cars invaded, were good for a month or so with fuel still being in the carby bowls high enough to start the thing. Any longer, and priming was needed. These cars DID NOT have that relay nonsense, turn ON the key, the pump clunked away in the boot, and when the clucking stopped, or slowed, push the start button. SIMPLE.
Last edited by Grant Francis; 04-22-2021 at 08:16 AM.
#24
04-22-2021, 12:06 PM
Junior Member
Thank you for the update - no, I never worked out what the two wires were for - they may of course have been for a different application not relevant to my car.
An issue I do have however, is that during long periods of little or no use ( shame) , the fuel seems to drain out of the pipes and back into the tanks thereby making start up a bit of a drain on the battery.
Does anyone know if the 3.4 had non-return valves in the fuel pipework ? If so, where are they and can they be cleaned or replaced??
Tom
An issue I do have however, is that during long periods of little or no use ( shame) , the fuel seems to drain out of the pipes and back into the tanks thereby making start up a bit of a drain on the battery.
Does anyone know if the 3.4 had non-return valves in the fuel pipework ? If so, where are they and can they be cleaned or replaced??
Tom
Non return valve in the pipework to the pumps which are submerged in the fuel tanks, one each side. Accesible from the plate which is between the rear wheel and on the rear of the wheelarch. (i.e. between the wheel and the tank).
Presume yours is the same as my 1981 3.4. Haynes manual explains. Careful, they need to be in the right way.
#25
04-22-2021, 12:24 PM
Junior Member
Sorry about this but I think you have a typo. The oil pressure needs to be 8 psi.
#26
04-28-2021, 02:16 PM
Senior Member
Non runner!
I have another issue when I fire the car, it starts but once I release my hand from the key it goes off
I'm not sure whats the problem with it. it might be the carburetor, it is sometimes licking fuel from under it
do you have any idea?
it the ignition switch? which is very expensive
I'm not sure whats the problem with it. it might be the carburetor, it is sometimes licking fuel from under it
do you have any idea?
it the ignition switch? which is very expensive
#27
04-28-2021, 02:50 PM
Veteran Member
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