Hi everybody, just joined the club of XJ6 owners with a 4.2 1973 Dark Blue Series One

The car is almost fine, but has few things to be done, so I'd like to have some infos from you, guys.

- Rear brake discs: they are "the sandwich type" ones, and the LHD one has only the outer part of the "sandwich" almost ground to zero (maybe 1-1,5 millimeters left?). The inner part is less worn, and the same for the inner and outer parts of the RHD disc ones.
Now do you think it is a must to replace it immediately or I might keep going for some thousands miles more? What happens if one disc is reaching the "center part" of the sandwich from one side only?
I'm not hiding I'd hate to remove the IRS during the first week..

- The overdrive (it has a manual transmission) has a very harsh activation/de-activation: I tried with and without depressing clutch, and although activation is better, deactivation is always a little shock to the transmission: is there something to check to make acting softer?

- Rust: the sills (rocker panels) need repairs (hope only in the bottom part), and the rear valance too. The rest seems pretty solid. My plan is to run alot of rust converter, then treating with Dinitrol all the exposed parts (I'd like to use the car also in winter!)

- Are there some upgrades (like electronic ignition, Manual choke conversion, etc.) to make the car almost reliable in daily use?
I have only the Jaguar right now and an old Land Rover 88 (that I entirely restored).

Thank you all for the thoughts you'd like to share!
Asa

 

Dropping the IRS is "suggested" for the E - brake or leaking parts.

You can more or less easily change the rear brake pads with the car properly and safely jacked up. Get proper S1 service manual or the at least the Jaguar parts and service CD... it will help you a lot.

Rust is a problem.. sills are probably rusted through - coating the rusted parts will give you some time.. but major cutting, welding and replacing is
best. Rear valance is available new from SNG Barratt as I just replaced mine on my S1.

Have no knowledge of your manual trans/OD, as I have owned four Jaguars and have never driven one with a Jaguar engine yet!

 

Thank you for your help, Roger.
Maybe I have not been clear enough about rear discs: the pads are in perfect conditions, the problem is with rotor thickness!
My rotors are the ones formed by a center piece with two thinner layers on both parts (see photo attached)..

 

Nice choice Asa, 73 was fine year.(I'n not biased.)
Removing the IRS is not as daunting as it sounds, I did it on my own with a bit of patience.
If you have trouble chasing part numbers I have a book with all the original numbers. Just shoot me a PM and I will scan pages for you.

I just put a Series 3 electronic distributor in mine and couldn't be happier.

 

Electronic ignition is available for these quite easily, a few different options from a simple points replacement kit, to a brand like petronix that completely replaces the whole distributor. Well worthwhile upgrade, I've got a basic points replacement one in my MK2 Jaguar and it works wonders, was cheaper than getting a new condensor!

Like any new to you old car, it always pays to go overboard with preventative maintenance if you are unsure about anything.

Such as overhauling the rear end if you feel the rotors are wearing unevenly from a faulty caliper for example.

 

If the rear brakes work, and you do not have to pass an annual inspection.. you should be OK.

You can replace them when you drop the IRS. I can do it by myself with a floor jack, car on jack stands at least 18" high, using a piece of plywood under the center of the rear end. At that time you can replace the calipers, rotors, pads and rebuild the E - brake along with a new brake hose.

Getting the exhaust out of the IRS is the largest problem... usually too rusted and cutting is involved.

 

Asa:


Welcome!


Where are you?


In USA speak, the bad part is a vented rotor. A bad in the past did that. Swapping in new pads will get you by for a while. choose soft ones to ease rotor wear. That one and possibly it's mate are 'toast".
Plan for replacements, as early as possible. Bad brakes are not a good thing!!!


As to rust, not good, what you see is the "tip of the ice berg".
But, doable. Do you have welding equipment and the skill to use it?


You will need it or access to it.


Caveat, lift the carpets and check the floor pans???


IMHO, engine overheating is the most important thing to avoid.


Carl

 

Thank you all for your tips. I'm located in North Italy near Milan.

Thank you o1XJr for your offer, I have found parts catalogs online and the car came with an original Service Manual.

The car stops, although not awesomely! But for now it's ok and I'd like to use it a bit and trying to pospone the IRS drop thing in the hotter season.
In the meantime my plan is to change front rotors and pads (EBC Greenstuff any good?), that is an easy job.

About the electronic distributor I'm leaning toward that, only trying to make the right choice between Pertronix and 123 Ignition. I have an LPG system, so I may consider the 123 having multiple curves selectable, but have read somewhere that the curves were way too (totally) advanced if you have a stock engine..

About rust, yes I've welding equipment!
I checked throughout the car for rust with a hammer and I've found the floor pans are totally ok. The only rusted areas: rockers, rear valance, 3 points inside wheel wells. The rests seems solid.

Another questions: as the fan clutch is spinning too freely when engine is shut off I was thinking to change it, but Series 1 fan clutch is NLA: I've read somewhere that a Series 3 fan clutch may be installed, sitting only 1 inch closer to radiator. The problem is there are different fan clutches for Series 3, according to SNG Barratt.
I was asking myself if the one attached could be a direct swap? It's EAC4751.. In mine the 4 bolts are 60mm apart, but no way to know the bolts distance in a Series 3...

 

Maybe consider going to twin electric fans, a common mod here in Australia. Easy fit and readily available.

 

Hi Asa, nice buy!


Sit back and relax, you still got the Landy.
In my humble opinion the series I and II are the epitome of Jag style.


Rear brakes on an XJ are are seldomly hard used, as the XJ is not tended to be hard driven. Although it can.
Wouldn't worry about it untill you get there.


If I'd just bought the Jag I'd change all the saps (fluids), sparks, if it hadn't been run for a long time, also the distributor wires and cap and see how it goes. Mind, adjust what you can, timing and the onderbreker as we call it in dutch, the little thing that opens up to send a godgiven spark.


Rust? Best keep it going first. The car, I mean, not the rust.


Series I upgrade to manual choke? Try the series II.


Electric fans are a good upgrade, though, but just, at first, sit high on the sill of your stupidly slow loveable Landy and look at the brave new car!


Hold your horses, but I do understand what you want.


Thenightshifter

 

What you've got there on the rear brakes is a solid disc, these cars only ever had vented discs on the front. As far as I know there is a groove machined in the outer edge and a length of wire is slotted in there and welded together so as to stop the disc ringing under braking. At least that is my understanding. I don't think you have too much to worry about, but do check the disc thickness against the quoted minimum thickness value. FWIW, if you're going to keep the car, it might be very worthwhile to bite the bullet and have that rear sub-frame off, and inspect all the parts. There are lots of bearings that wear out, as well as the discs, and the calipers can seize up, both hydraulic and handbrake ones. I had a load of trouble with an '80, and it was only finally sorted when I fitted rebuilt calipers and discs. Of course you don't have to drop the sub-frame to do the outer suspension parts, like the hub bearings and hub carrier trunnion bearings.