Knocking noise from the front engine of my 1972 xj6 series 1
#1
Knocking noise from the front engine of my 1972 xj6 series 1
Hi all.
Im a new member who has just bought a 1972 series 1 xj6,One owner,56,000 miles from new,loads of history...rarly driven.
I bought the car with the Knocking noise on the front of the engine when first startedturned off quickly) which has just recently started hence the sale by the 92 year old first and last owner.he only used to start it every other week.
Ive been told it could be the big end knocking.
Im no mechanic but ow much of a big job would this be and cost to get right or maybe a new recon engine if needed....im on a budget......can anyone also recommend any local garages to mansfield uk that may be able to help or independent engineers in the Notts/Derby/Mansfield area.
Kind regards
Andy
Im a new member who has just bought a 1972 series 1 xj6,One owner,56,000 miles from new,loads of history...rarly driven.
I bought the car with the Knocking noise on the front of the engine when first startedturned off quickly) which has just recently started hence the sale by the 92 year old first and last owner.he only used to start it every other week.
Ive been told it could be the big end knocking.
Im no mechanic but ow much of a big job would this be and cost to get right or maybe a new recon engine if needed....im on a budget......can anyone also recommend any local garages to mansfield uk that may be able to help or independent engineers in the Notts/Derby/Mansfield area.
Kind regards
Andy
#2
consider this
Hello Andy...
Could you find a 80's sedan with a chassis that's past it and in need of an MOT? If you can it should be cheap and you could check out the engine, verify oil pressure and hear it run and tow it away. Then do a long block engine swap and you'll be back on the road. Here in the USA rusted out sedans that still run are plentiful and cheap. I'd could find a car like that for $800 to $1000, remove the engine and scrap it for $250. Labor and seals aside the net cost would be under 750$
Rebuilding your engine would surely cost more than that in parts and time.
Could you find a 80's sedan with a chassis that's past it and in need of an MOT? If you can it should be cheap and you could check out the engine, verify oil pressure and hear it run and tow it away. Then do a long block engine swap and you'll be back on the road. Here in the USA rusted out sedans that still run are plentiful and cheap. I'd could find a car like that for $800 to $1000, remove the engine and scrap it for $250. Labor and seals aside the net cost would be under 750$
Rebuilding your engine would surely cost more than that in parts and time.
The following users liked this post:
andyinknotts (07-10-2013)
#3
Andy,
Common on the 4.2ltr is the front pulley BIG bolt being loose, and the keyway in the crankshaft and the split tapered collar causing an horrific knocking noise. I have had a few, also V12 do it.
Also at the age I would be highly suspicious of the integrity of the rubber bonding of that pulley.
Crankshafts and bearings on these are rarely a failure item.
Common on the 4.2ltr is the front pulley BIG bolt being loose, and the keyway in the crankshaft and the split tapered collar causing an horrific knocking noise. I have had a few, also V12 do it.
Also at the age I would be highly suspicious of the integrity of the rubber bonding of that pulley.
Crankshafts and bearings on these are rarely a failure item.
The following users liked this post:
andyinknotts (07-10-2013)
#6
The bolt can be accessed without too much hassle. I get at them from underneath. the lock plate comes off first, then undo that bolt, take the pulley off, and check the 2 keyways, and keys.
Fan off and shrouds etc off makes it waaaaay easier.
When refitting the crankshaft will need "jamming" to enable the correct torque to be applied. Removing teh tin pan under the flywheel is the easiest way to do this.
The bonding of that pulley is a specialist operation, and there are engineering shops that do this task. Not for the DIY.
In your location I feel sure there will be many outfits that do this task. maybe check with David Manners etc.
Fan off and shrouds etc off makes it waaaaay easier.
When refitting the crankshaft will need "jamming" to enable the correct torque to be applied. Removing teh tin pan under the flywheel is the easiest way to do this.
The bonding of that pulley is a specialist operation, and there are engineering shops that do this task. Not for the DIY.
In your location I feel sure there will be many outfits that do this task. maybe check with David Manners etc.
Last edited by Grant Francis; 07-11-2013 at 06:21 AM.
The following users liked this post:
andyinknotts (07-11-2013)
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