Lower ball joint replacement
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Lower ball joint replacement
Hi,
Can any one help me? I'am currently rebuilding the front suspension of my 1980 Series 3 XJ6.
I have purchased the one piece lower ball joints to replace the existing multi piece ones.
My question is the new ball jointwill not pass through the carrier. Does the stub axle carrier need to be machined out so the joint will fit through it? Another question is do you need to use the shims that are fitted to the old ball joint?
Regards
Rob
Albury, N.S.W.
Australia
1980 XJ6 Series 4.2L
[IMG]local://upfiles/1438/001775B65974428F8E70B8B12FC9109B.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/1438/C1427A1F70A948FEB2B776ED26BD71EB.jpg[/IMG]
Can any one help me? I'am currently rebuilding the front suspension of my 1980 Series 3 XJ6.
I have purchased the one piece lower ball joints to replace the existing multi piece ones.
My question is the new ball jointwill not pass through the carrier. Does the stub axle carrier need to be machined out so the joint will fit through it? Another question is do you need to use the shims that are fitted to the old ball joint?
Regards
Rob
Albury, N.S.W.
Australia
1980 XJ6 Series 4.2L
[IMG]local://upfiles/1438/001775B65974428F8E70B8B12FC9109B.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/1438/C1427A1F70A948FEB2B776ED26BD71EB.jpg[/IMG]
#2
RE: Lower ball joint replacement
I did my car's uppers and lowers myself and had no troubles,mine is a 1984 XJ-6, I wonder if there's any difference. My first thought was that you got the wrong lowers, but I can't be sure. As to using the existing shims, Ireplaced them exactly as they came off, I didn't want to alter anything in the car's suspension/geometry. Check the attached instructions to see if it matches yours.
Jose
[IMG]local://upfiles/1235/1CCAF92474C1438EA5782A4FC96D01AA.jpg[/IMG]
Jose
[IMG]local://upfiles/1235/1CCAF92474C1438EA5782A4FC96D01AA.jpg[/IMG]
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
RE: Lower ball joint replacement
Thanks for your response Jose.
The info you posted is for the original style lower joints.
What I was looking for was what is needed to be changeto the later one piece style ball joint is used. As seen in the picture in the original post does the old spigot on the stub axle carrier need to be removed so the new ball joint can be fitted. I believe that the new joints that I have are correct. They are the same length, bolt pattern etc. Can any one else help.
Regards
The info you posted is for the original style lower joints.
What I was looking for was what is needed to be changeto the later one piece style ball joint is used. As seen in the picture in the original post does the old spigot on the stub axle carrier need to be removed so the new ball joint can be fitted. I believe that the new joints that I have are correct. They are the same length, bolt pattern etc. Can any one else help.
Regards
#4
RE: Lower ball joint replacement
I guess I was not clear with my first answer, but I also installed the newer one-piece joints and I had no trouble.I would do a bit more investigating before machining your parts, because once you do, you can't go back. Let's see what Ken says, he's more familiar with the replacement parts.
#5
RE: Lower ball joint replacement
Sometimes the "cone" from the old ball joint remains stuck in the vetical link. If this is the case, take the ball from the ball joint you removed and place on top of the hole with the stick going through the opposite direction and the ball sitting on top. Then take a hammer and smack the hell out of it. Not only is this loads of fun, it will drive the cone out and the replacement unit will slide right. No shims needed.
If the cone is already out, look at the base of the replacement ball joint. Some of these have lip where the cylinderical portion of the ball joint meets the flat area with the screw holes. If yours has the lip, look in the vertical link and see if the metal washer stayed inside. Just pop it loose (not as fun as smacking it with a hammer) and you should be good to go. I would hang on the the metal rings. Some of the replacement ball joints have the lip to center it in the opening, and some of the aftermarket units do not and requiere reusing the ring. Neither requieres use of the old shims.
If the cone is already out, look at the base of the replacement ball joint. Some of these have lip where the cylinderical portion of the ball joint meets the flat area with the screw holes. If yours has the lip, look in the vertical link and see if the metal washer stayed inside. Just pop it loose (not as fun as smacking it with a hammer) and you should be good to go. I would hang on the the metal rings. Some of the replacement ball joints have the lip to center it in the opening, and some of the aftermarket units do not and requiere reusing the ring. Neither requieres use of the old shims.
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