hello jaguar enthusiast's.
Before I start asking lots of questions ill give a quick run down about my jag.


well february 2014 after a year of looking I finally found a relatively good condition 1971 xj6 series 1.
after months off driving it around ( and enjoying how good it drives for a old car) I am ready to start working on my to do list.


so the exterior off the car has been taking back to bare metal any rust fixed and is now in epoxy primer.
now its time for the engine to go and an ls1 take its place.


and this is were the first question comes.
can series 3 fuel tanks be fitted in the series 1 or am I better to get a return line fitted to the series 1 tanks?

 

YES. I Have done both with success. If you fit Series 3 tanks you will need series 3 fill caps. They are different in a few key respects.


You can also tig weld a 3/8 bung to fit a threaded barb for a return line. Only an experienced welder who knows gas tank protocol should weld on a fuel tank.


I'd also check the tanks carefully for rust, new tanks may be required if yours are rusting internally.

 

I have the same condition, would like to upgrade my S1 383/200R with great tanks to fuel injection and I have already gotten rid of the Jaguar switching valve.

Instead of going to all the trouble of changing tanks and caps, I will install a Edelbrock surge tank with the internal high pressure pump for the FI... easier and less expensive than the tanks/caps.

I do have (2) two S3 tanks in good condition standing by, but having done the tank changes in the past, this makes a lot more sense. Plus, the Jags tanks do not have baffles so going around curves will not cause a lack of fuel as the surge tank will always have fuel to feed the engine.

It works for me because my tanks are in fine condition...I will use the stock Chevrolet fuel pump to bring the fuel to the surge tanks.

 

Instead of going to all the trouble of changing tanks and caps, I will install a Edelbrock surge tank with the internal high pressure pump for the FI... easier and less expensive than the tanks/caps.


how are you planning on plumbing in the surge tank?
I was planning on having a surge tank feed by the fuel pumps and then a external fuel pump from surge tank to the efi. the return line to the surge tank then a fuel tank change over valve from surge tank for any extra fuel to return to fuel tank.
that seems really complicated tho
what is the best way?

 

I think the best way is the simplest way. T the tanks with a T fitting and use that supply line to feed a series 3 electric or other electric fuel pump and filter located in the extra space in corners of the spare tire well. Then simply run a single return line to one of the tanks.


McMaster-Carr
If you use a fitting like this and mount it high on the tank you wont need to do any welding to your existing tank.


I just don't see a safe or simple place for the Edelbrock EFI sump surge tank in the engine compartment, its kind of cramped as it is. Also LS engines don't have a mechanical pump so with the Edelbrock setup EFI sump you'd end up with two regulators, two electric pumps and significant amount of plumbing and wiring.


The prevailing questions is whether or not your existing tanks are serviceable or not. If they aren't then you may as well get the new Series 3 tanks.

 

Edelbrock part number is 3605 (link below shows the cost and a photo).. in my case, with the SBC and the mechanical pump already in place and working, it makes sense. I have a (3) port changeover valve in this car.

They have three methods and you could use another pump to "pull" the gas from the changeover valve to the front and to the surge tank.

I have plenty of room on the either side of the front of my engine for the small tank... I will put it on the RF behind the radiator - near the horn
relay area.

Edelbrock Universal EFI Sump Fuel Kit; 49PSI UNIVERSAL

In the past, I attempted to put a return line into the fuel sender(s) of the '72 LT1/700R car with no success. I ended up changing the tanks to SII tanks with return lines and did not have to change the filler caps. I did use the Pollak (6) port fuel changeover valve and the return lines connect to it. I used the Jag feed line as the return and made it 3/8' part way back to the rear and ran a new hard feed line from a bulkhead fitting to the front and then connected custom snap on fuel lines in the front (see photo).

Easiest way would be a proper fuel cell in the upper area of the trunk and fill from one modified Jag filler into the cell. It would have baffling, electric
fuel pump inside and a return line fitting. Would give up trunk/boot space but it would be "perfect".

It all depends on what you are willing to do/spend and what type of installation you want to end up with... welding on gas tanks is not done
much today... there is no room that I could fit a return fitting into the filler neck area so I tried to add it to the fuel sender (see photo). Maybe that other
connector would have worked and it would be easy to plumb the return line and keep your old tanks? I could have had it Tig welded - maybe.. but
using the fitting shown always leaked... that was the problem... good idea and spot though.

If you purchase new S3 tanks, they will have the large 1/2 inch line for feed and a return line fitting. You will need new S3 fuel senders that enter from the
rear (might have a power antenna conflict if you have one?) plus the new style filler caps that work with the tanks.. expensive.... and lots of work
to get the tanks out, change the rubber vent hoses, rewire for the now rear connected senders... you still have to make and run a return line.


Or, you could purchase the Spectra tanks for the S1/S2 (be sure they have the return line) and not change the fuel caps... use your old fuel senders etc... easiest way and cheaper than two new fuel senders and fuel filler caps... less work too.

This would be a great time to get rid of the Jaguar changeover valve! The Pollak unit shown is compact, modern, inexpensive and works VERY well.
I have wiring and plumbing photos to show the relays etc if you are interested.


Contact Andrew at Jaguar Specialties for the best conversion kit and talk to him about the gas tanks and changeover valve...

 

Thanks for the informative thread. This is great info as I have been thinking about a FI conversion.

 

I have done a lot of research on FI for my Jag... we should start another thread and not highjack this one.

 

there is many different ways of doing it. I am going to get hold of some people this week and hopefully figure out what i am going to be doing.


The problem I am having now is the more I pull the car apart the more ideas I get.


I should be pulling the old engine out in a few days will be putting some photos up.

 

Very Similar to what's already been suggested, I was going to use the std S1 Carb Fuel Pumps as Lifter Pumps to keep the Surge Tank filled and then run an External 044 Bosch or similar.

I was then going to run the return lines from the Surge Tank to the OEM Fuel Tanks, but run two switching units to prevent one Tank from over filling. You'd then retain the full twin tanks operation.

I was thinking of using the Sender Unit Plate as the Return Line entry, but looks like Roger may have disproved that idea, so a little rethink here?

 

On a carbed series 2 I have used the plate in the front where the fuel pump and pickup is to plumb a return line. Simply drill a 3/8 hole insert the steel line bent downward slightly on the in tank side and angled properly on the outside tank side. Then braze it with some brazing rod and an actyl-oxy torch. This is how Jaguar did the supply line. If you don't have a torch or cant braze...then clean it thoroughly and bring it to a local welder. He may just tig it. Takes about 2 minutes once the metal is clean. If you don't know how to braze and want to learn this in an opportunity. Get an extra piece of line, some 18 guage sheet metal and practice.

 

Icsamerica


Do you have any photos of this idea? I have trouble seeing this adaptation method. "On a carbed series 2 I have used the plate in the front where the fuel pump and pickup is to plumb a return line. Simply drill a 3/8 hole insert the steel line bent downward slightly on the in tank side and angled properly on the outside tank side. Then braze it with some brazing rod and an actyl-oxy torch. This is how Jaguar did the supply line. If you don't have a torch or cant braze...then clean it thoroughly and bring it to a local welder. He may just tig it. Takes about 2 minutes once the metal is clean. If you don't know how to braze and want to learn this in an opportunity. Get an extra piece of line, some 18 guage sheet metal and practice"

My problem is I have almost new S1 tanks and the stock SBC fuel pump and switching stuff that is in place and works.

Plus some good S3 tanks (not sure if the fuel senders were working since the car was stripped and the engine was already dead)... I know how to put in a six port changeover valve, filters and run a new feed line.. just do not want to go to all this trouble again. I have looked into some S3 fuel caps...

 

nz_jaguar, have you got a few more pics of the car? I love the way the wheels fill the arches and would love to know how you got the stance looking so good? Wheel size, offset, any adapters used?

 

Two points:


1. I just read an article in "Hot Rod" about correcting errors in the install of a FI Ford 302 in a 77 Mustang II. Why, it was done, I dunno. Odd choice for all the effort.
But, the complexities involved there make the install of a GM FI in a Jag simple!!!
Good reading, though. Lessons to be learned.


2. Way back when, I got a 65 Corvair Monza that had been "Corsaized', sorta. Turbo engine and dash. Good idea, but executed with lotsa errors. One was that it's Carter side draft included a fuel return.


it was a mere hole in the gas tank filler neck and a tube pushed in. Loose! I did some joinery and made a fitting to be clamped in place by nuts on each side. A barb for the hose included. Now no longer loose and safe. Brazing and use of dies for threads did it.


Carl

 

Sorry Rodger, I don't. That was along time ago before digital cameras were ubiquitous. For this case I also replaced the in tank low pressure pump with a Walbro high pressure pump. It worked and I liked the idea of two fuel pumps (like the BMW 750il v12) and a single switch over valve for the return made that configuration simple and redundant. After all the work I found the Walbro in tank pumps to be very noisy. FAIL! I mounted them rigidly as jag did with the low pressure pumps and too much noise was present. I tried some quick isolation technique but to no avail. In the end I went with new series 3 tanks and a single external pump because of the noise. Hose routing with the Pollack is easier with the Series 3 tanks too. I still like the idea of two pumps in situ but the Pollack valve can only switch on low pressure.

 

well I think I have a plan.
I'm going to mount a fuel cell were the spear wheel goes have an external fuel pump and filter. then have a regulator in the engine bay.
should I go with 60 or 80 litre? both will fit.


off the top of my head i cant remember much about the wheels/suspension 20inch wheels and the springs were low springs but had them compressed to get the height i was after. ill find some more info for you and pics.

 

But, get one with the fuel pump inside the cell and make sure it has baffling... it will be quieter with the pump immersed and not starve itself from fuel. You can easily run the feed line and return to the cell. Most have 90 ohm sender that is different from Jaguar... would need to add resistor to mate properly or use a GM type gas gauge.


This solution was very easy to do, cost more since you are buying the fuel pump, filter and all in one easy to install unit - if you did it my way..

I was thinking about putting one on the upper shelf in the trunk/boot and adapting one fuel filler cap neck inside to be able to fill it "normally". I could
not find one that would fit under the removable spare tire cover... and I wanted at least 18-20 US gallons...or about 68 liters

 

And where are you going to put the spare tire?

Just one mans opinion...Tire well tank solves little and creates many new problems.

Something like this should fit in the dead space in the trunk under the package shelf.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rci-2161a/overview/

 

my parents have a Toyota 86 and instead of a spare tyre it has a portable compressor and sum gunk that you put in the tyre. was thinking of coping that?


the problem I have is trying to find those kind of products in new Zealand with shipping and import taxes it starts making thing pricey.

 

Comments:


1. The tire repair guys hate that stop leak goop that is available. Makes a real fix of a simple puncture an issue.


2. Flat tires and blow outs are far less frequent than in the past. Especialy, if one cares for the tires in a reasonable fashion.


3. My 94 Jeep Grand Cherokee's original spare is in the boot. As pristine as it was when it left Toledo.


4. Sometime ago, I bought a little 12v compressor. Seems to be all plastic!!!. Slow,. but it will top off a tire. A bit noisy and gets hot as h.. ! But, works. I had a slow leak on the old tires of my car. At times, I topped it off with this unit rather than unlimber one of my bigger compressors.


5. a "limp home" spare would take little room in a Jaguar boot.


Carl