Got a question for the "lumpers"..
I spent most of this summer correcting / improving some of the little issues that I knew needed attention (350 / 700r4). Feeling better now that I have addressed most of these items. However there is always one more item.
I would love to upgrade the clunky old transmission cable support presently being used on the transmission.
I have a 700r4 and using the stock Jaguar XJ6 transmission gear selector cable. Would like to have everything working easy and smoothly,... do not want to have a problem with the cable coming adrift and the car coming home on the flatbed ,..just because I did not improve on the one now there. So question is.. What did you other lumpers do, to address the type of bracket /support you used ? Looking for new ideas/ approaches to this issue. Mine works, but if there is a better way... as Ross Perot once said "i am all ears"

 

I dimly recall that mine came with the kit that I got from Johnscars of Fort Worth, Texas.
Would he sell that part alone? Nope..... Good guy, but very possisive of his kit...

Carl

 

Yeah I think I will end up fabricating my own from something I can get ( and modify ) then a bit of drilling / spot welding. My thinking is ,..if the cable develops some issue there is not much you can do other than getting the car home. Too low and too dangerous to be under the car on the side of the road. That's the thing about swaps,.. you have to think all the "back yard engineering" through and be positive all will work well in operation and on the road. Just re engineered my trans cooling system,.. you always know when something could be improved ... before Murphy's Law kicks in...

 

Alyn:

1. Yeah, why not. Two places to think out., The attachment to the box. And the means of securing the cable housing to the bracket. The latter I see as the most important.

2. There is a port on the driver's side on the trans tunnel that just might be good enough to shift the trans and limp home!! Safer than down under for sure!!

Althougb a failure is not likely on the open road. More like an off the street lot.

My cable failed in my drive! during the lumping process!!! How convenient!!! New, better design cable via Johns cars. Lesson, move the shifter, don't slam it!!

So, the bracket might not be the main issue, but the cable itself!!

Carl .

 

I put a 4L60e in a XJS a few years back.

As I recall the issue was getting the right range of motion to actuate the 4L60e from the Jag's shifter quadrant. I started out by measuring the stroke of the Jag cable, then measured the stroke required for the 4L60e so I could understand what the correct radius on transmission actuator should be. This allowed the Jag shifter to access all the correct gears on the transplant transmission.

As an additional reminder, don't forget to hookup the neutral safety switch that prevents starting the engine while the trans is in gear. I was in a hurry to get mine running and bypassed the switch, I started the car in gear one day and it pushed the front bumper through a wall in the bathroom in my shop. Just a drywall repair that time, but it could have been much worse.

 

Working on modifying a cable support that will fit in that tight area. Yes,.. as for stroke length I have an adjustable shifter arm and I am using a shifter lever set up from a V12 XJS.
The support I have there now will serve as a pattern for the new one ...its made from 1/4 inch plate - way too big.
I have the P/N switch wiring I installed from the starter relay ground, with a diode - works perfectly
I just think (laying on the ground under the car looking up,...) that I could have come up with something more long term ,..now it looks temporary and probably is.. but I would like it to not be, an unpleasant surprise in the future. I have disassembled the shifter portion and cleaned it / lubed it and put it back together in the car. Cable seems ok but the cable support needs a better job of aligning it with the arm / cable, so its a straight shot by the cable ,..through the support / then to the shifter arm.

 

Found the solution right under my nose. I have the manual for swapping a v8 into a Jag (Mike Knells) and there inside is a scale drawing of the support part I need. Just need to make it from some thinner plate material. Get lucky now and then..

 

Victory is found when sought!!!! Kudos.

1. Your comment on the diode in the ground leg of the park neutral switch intrigues me. My car uses an XJS shift tower as well. GM to GM quadrant works better. And, it includes the micro switch for that circuit. Now, the Johnscars kit include two patches. Diodes on two of the starter relay posts. A feed back issue, I suppose. How and why escapes me. I do know, the hard way that failing to include one or both sure messes up stuff!!!! One of my "don't asks".

2. I am very familiar with Murphy's law. Unfortunately. I have a codicil for it. "and once having gone wrong, will remain so".

3. Working on my durrn IRS and CA state tax. Much pain.

My lump purrrrs… Gotta go to the store in a bit. Jeep handier, so I'll drive it...



Carl

 

Carl,
As I understand it,.. the GM ECM sends a 5 volt reference signal down the wire that is used for the ECM to determine if the transmission is in P or N, if it is (in either one ),...the ECM senses it, using that 5 volt signal it generated..so it raises the idle speed a bit. That's why your car increases in idle speed when switched to Neutral or placed in Park.
But that is also the exact same place that is used for the starter relay to find Ground - from starter relay through the shifter to ground - when in Park / Neutral. Not in Park or Neutral ? = no start... because no ground.
So here is the issue.. that 5 volt reference signal (because it goes to ground at the same place as the starter relay ground wire) it can also travel back up the starter relay ground wire to the starter relay itself and create dashboard flashing dash lights problems. Its a simple conflict of purposes. So put a diode into the starter relay ground wire that only allows continuity one way - to the grounding point where the P/N wire is already connected. Now the starter relay will have ground and the 5 volt P/N signal can not get past the diode and travel up the starter relay ground wire the wrong way
Everyone is happy happy happy. lol Works well on my car - it only starts in P or N ... RPMs drop when in gear

 

Thanks Alyn;

Mine is a tad different. The ground on the crank relay avoids any PCM controls.
It goes direct to the micro on the shift tower, But, if the shift tower ground shares with the ECM, aka PCM, that just might be it!!

Although, P or N does not effect idle speed at all. 500 in either !

But, it works, so I'll surely not mess with it. Do not fix what does not need fixing!!

I over rode my plan yesterday. I drove the Jaguar. It purred....

And a prior lope at fire up is gone !! Immediate start and in to fast idle at 800. Soon drops to a nice smooth 500!

Carl

 

Yes a v8 with computer control will idle at 500..smooth no vibration - good stuff..
Just had a go around with my fuel system... Jaguar change over valve to be specific. Car started running like crap after sitting all summer ..not being used.. I finally figured it out. If you do not use the car (and the change over valve) for several months and you have not cleaned the Lucas ground connections at the change over valve ..those bullet connections in an aluminum tube,.. corrode. AND you loose control over the fuel supply. Cleaned the grounds and the valve was cycled about 20 times ..works well now. Was about to remove the connectors and just solder the wires together but the if the valve failed in the future I would have to cut and re solder... so I cleaned it and left it.. another thing on the "maintain" list.

 

Kudos!

Another application of use it or lose it.

Carl