Most recent HVAC status...
#1
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Here's where we currently are with my car, an 87:
* Already JagAire modified (tried 2 amplifiers, neither worked), and I have the A/C compressor on a toggle switch.
* Also have a manual control (faucet) valve on the heater core.
* JagAire controls aren't helping. I can hear the servos doing their thing when I switch between Cold and Hot, but airflow/temps never change.
* The unit still tries to respond to inputs on the temperature dial when the fan is set to Normal, but airflow/temps never change.
* No matter which setting you use, air is coming out of all vents, all the time.
* When you have the heater core valve opened up where warm air can get in the cabin, and you turn the system on, warm/hot air ALWAYS comes out from under the dash somewhere, and occasionally a little trickles out the defrost vents. Everything else -- center dash, and the lower center console vents -- are cold. No matter the temp setting.
* In order to get cold air in all vents, you have to manually close off the heater core.
After fighting it for three years, my only take is that this has to be a mechanical issue (broken blend doors, etc.). We've got everything in the system supposedly isolated now where it can be controlled manually -- compressor engagement, hot water flow, hot/cold settings being run by JagAire controls -- but the system only has two "settings" now -- full cold, or somewhat cool/cold out of the face vents and lukewarm-to-warm in other places.
I'd be happy if I could make it run either full cold (more appropriately, full cool) everywhere or full hot everywhere. It's not drivable when outside temps are over 90 F because warm fresh air seems to be getting into the blend. It's also not drivable under about 50 degrees, because the center dash vents are ice cold.
I'm seriously considering getting an inverter installed with a 110V plug so I can plug in a ceramic heater in the wintertime. But what I'd really like is to fix the problem right, once and for all.
Anyone with a decent estimate on how much it should cost to do this? I'm assuming the dash has to come out and I have to find all new HVAC guts.
Jess
* Already JagAire modified (tried 2 amplifiers, neither worked), and I have the A/C compressor on a toggle switch.
* Also have a manual control (faucet) valve on the heater core.
* JagAire controls aren't helping. I can hear the servos doing their thing when I switch between Cold and Hot, but airflow/temps never change.
* The unit still tries to respond to inputs on the temperature dial when the fan is set to Normal, but airflow/temps never change.
* No matter which setting you use, air is coming out of all vents, all the time.
* When you have the heater core valve opened up where warm air can get in the cabin, and you turn the system on, warm/hot air ALWAYS comes out from under the dash somewhere, and occasionally a little trickles out the defrost vents. Everything else -- center dash, and the lower center console vents -- are cold. No matter the temp setting.
* In order to get cold air in all vents, you have to manually close off the heater core.
After fighting it for three years, my only take is that this has to be a mechanical issue (broken blend doors, etc.). We've got everything in the system supposedly isolated now where it can be controlled manually -- compressor engagement, hot water flow, hot/cold settings being run by JagAire controls -- but the system only has two "settings" now -- full cold, or somewhat cool/cold out of the face vents and lukewarm-to-warm in other places.
I'd be happy if I could make it run either full cold (more appropriately, full cool) everywhere or full hot everywhere. It's not drivable when outside temps are over 90 F because warm fresh air seems to be getting into the blend. It's also not drivable under about 50 degrees, because the center dash vents are ice cold.
I'm seriously considering getting an inverter installed with a 110V plug so I can plug in a ceramic heater in the wintertime. But what I'd really like is to fix the problem right, once and for all.
Anyone with a decent estimate on how much it should cost to do this? I'm assuming the dash has to come out and I have to find all new HVAC guts.
Jess
#2
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Hi JessN16,
Just checking that you have checked condition of internal cabin sensor of HVAC system?
On passenger side of top black dash, under the top lip is a sensor for the cabin temperature.
If you unscrew the dash ends and unscrew the holding screws for the top dash..
Then remove whole black dash top.
Check linkage (hose) which houses the temp sensor is not crimped / blocked.
Mine was due to careless re installing of dash top.
Result was in winter system thought cabin was warm as blockage held warmed up air from bulkhead so system ran cold.
In warmer weather, blockage stopped system reading a warmer cabin, so really warm air would blow through vents on a pretty warm day.
Cheers,
Nigel
Just checking that you have checked condition of internal cabin sensor of HVAC system?
On passenger side of top black dash, under the top lip is a sensor for the cabin temperature.
If you unscrew the dash ends and unscrew the holding screws for the top dash..
Then remove whole black dash top.
Check linkage (hose) which houses the temp sensor is not crimped / blocked.
Mine was due to careless re installing of dash top.
Result was in winter system thought cabin was warm as blockage held warmed up air from bulkhead so system ran cold.
In warmer weather, blockage stopped system reading a warmer cabin, so really warm air would blow through vents on a pretty warm day.
Cheers,
Nigel
#3
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There is a modification I did that manually controls the outside air vent. A toggle switch one way makes it 100% recirculate the other is the factory automatic control. So with the heater valve shut and the air on recirculate and the compressor on you should be ready for summer. I have a Jag-aire manual control switch, an electric/pneumatic switch controlling the heater valve, the recirculate switch, and a compressor toggle switch. So I can manually control everything.
BTW, in addition to the cabin temperature sensor mentioned above, take the cheek panels off on the right side and when you move the controls you can see the servo pushing the rods. A little spray silicone on the pivot points can't hurt. Also, my car was missing a little spring that attaches to one of the rods. Picked up an assortment at the hardware store and found one that fit. If your car is producing both cold air and hot air and the servo is working I would say that the flaps aren't flapping right. Lubricant and manually wiggling them would be my recommendation. Taking out the dash is a DIY job (there is a YouTube video on the procedure). Then you can get to all the rods and levers if necessary.
Jeff
BTW, in addition to the cabin temperature sensor mentioned above, take the cheek panels off on the right side and when you move the controls you can see the servo pushing the rods. A little spray silicone on the pivot points can't hurt. Also, my car was missing a little spring that attaches to one of the rods. Picked up an assortment at the hardware store and found one that fit. If your car is producing both cold air and hot air and the servo is working I would say that the flaps aren't flapping right. Lubricant and manually wiggling them would be my recommendation. Taking out the dash is a DIY job (there is a YouTube video on the procedure). Then you can get to all the rods and levers if necessary.
Jeff
#5
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Gary at Jag-aire has kindly posted all of them in one place. Go to Jag-aire.com and on the home page scroll down and you will see "Six Modifications of the Jaguar Climate Control System" download button. Everything you need in one place.
In the hot, muggy August weather when I flip from recirculate to fresh it immediately raises the temperature of the air coming out of the center vent. Huge difference.
I am very reticent to put a bunch of extra switches in my beautiful interior. You can use one of the factory switches that you don't need. For example, Bill, in Florida I doubt that you use your rear window defroster that much.
Jeff
In the hot, muggy August weather when I flip from recirculate to fresh it immediately raises the temperature of the air coming out of the center vent. Huge difference.
I am very reticent to put a bunch of extra switches in my beautiful interior. You can use one of the factory switches that you don't need. For example, Bill, in Florida I doubt that you use your rear window defroster that much.
Jeff
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