Need some advice on alternators
#1
Need some advice on alternators
So. The I'm attempting to replace the alternator in my 1986 XJ6. Obviously there are things to move so that I can actually get the darn thing out...but my main question is this.
Is it necessary to drain the radiator system, or do I just have to move a tube out of the way?
And if anyone's done this before and has some tips and/or step-by-step instructions, I would really appreciate them. Thanks a bunch!
Is it necessary to drain the radiator system, or do I just have to move a tube out of the way?
And if anyone's done this before and has some tips and/or step-by-step instructions, I would really appreciate them. Thanks a bunch!
#2
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
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-Disconnect the anti-roll bar end links so the bar can be rotated upwards. You might, or might not, have to remove the left anti roll bar u-bracket so the bar can shifted for more clearance
-Remove the screws that hold the oil hose to the front of the subframe, allowing the hose to be shifted out of the way
-At the firewall, near the brake booster, disconnect the heavy gauge alternator output wire from the "+" junction post at the firewall. Remove the wire clamps that hold the wire to the frame rail alongside the engine. Now the wire will be free and come down with the alternator....rather than having to unbolt it from the back of the alternator with almost zero "slack" to work with
Hopefully this will help a bit. Others might chime in with details I've forgotten. There shouldb be no reason to open the cooling system
Cheers
DD
-Remove the screws that hold the oil hose to the front of the subframe, allowing the hose to be shifted out of the way
-At the firewall, near the brake booster, disconnect the heavy gauge alternator output wire from the "+" junction post at the firewall. Remove the wire clamps that hold the wire to the frame rail alongside the engine. Now the wire will be free and come down with the alternator....rather than having to unbolt it from the back of the alternator with almost zero "slack" to work with
Hopefully this will help a bit. Others might chime in with details I've forgotten. There shouldb be no reason to open the cooling system
Cheers
DD
#3
On your tag at the end of your name, I see that you have it listed as a 3.6L...
Is your car a Series 3 4.2L or a XJ40 3.6L.....
(Sorry, I know you said 86 but that one threw me a bit)....
I've never had to do it, and most of the time when I get to an alternator the car is pretty much torn down...
But I've always thought that if (or should I say when) i have to do it... I'll likely just disconnect it and leave it in place as dead weight... And then buy a John's Car's alternator kit... You actually move the alternator to where the air pump is (or should be in my case)...
I think he has some options for different amp alternators, along with part numbers for all the local suppliers that offer them... From him you can just get a kit....
I would think it would make access a little easier next go round, make replacing it easier this go round, and keep so much road grime and nastiness off the new alternator...
John's Cars - Broken Kitty
(looks like from the link that this kit goes where the old alt goes, but I"m pretty sure he offers a kit to "move" it)....
David
EverydayXJ.com
Is your car a Series 3 4.2L or a XJ40 3.6L.....
(Sorry, I know you said 86 but that one threw me a bit)....
I've never had to do it, and most of the time when I get to an alternator the car is pretty much torn down...
But I've always thought that if (or should I say when) i have to do it... I'll likely just disconnect it and leave it in place as dead weight... And then buy a John's Car's alternator kit... You actually move the alternator to where the air pump is (or should be in my case)...
I think he has some options for different amp alternators, along with part numbers for all the local suppliers that offer them... From him you can just get a kit....
I would think it would make access a little easier next go round, make replacing it easier this go round, and keep so much road grime and nastiness off the new alternator...
John's Cars - Broken Kitty
(looks like from the link that this kit goes where the old alt goes, but I"m pretty sure he offers a kit to "move" it)....
David
EverydayXJ.com
#4
-Disconnect the anti-roll bar end links so the bar can be rotated upwards. You might, or might not, have to remove the left anti roll bar u-bracket so the bar can shifted for more clearance
-Remove the screws that hold the oil hose to the front of the subframe, allowing the hose to be shifted out of the way
-At the firewall, near the brake booster, disconnect the heavy gauge alternator output wire from the "+" junction post at the firewall. Remove the wire clamps that hold the wire to the frame rail alongside the engine. Now the wire will be free and come down with the alternator....rather than having to unbolt it from the back of the alternator with almost zero "slack" to work with
Hopefully this will help a bit. Others might chime in with details I've forgotten. There shouldb be no reason to open the cooling system
Cheers
DD
-Remove the screws that hold the oil hose to the front of the subframe, allowing the hose to be shifted out of the way
-At the firewall, near the brake booster, disconnect the heavy gauge alternator output wire from the "+" junction post at the firewall. Remove the wire clamps that hold the wire to the frame rail alongside the engine. Now the wire will be free and come down with the alternator....rather than having to unbolt it from the back of the alternator with almost zero "slack" to work with
Hopefully this will help a bit. Others might chime in with details I've forgotten. There shouldb be no reason to open the cooling system
Cheers
DD
And the "left anti roll bar u-bracket" for that matter. It's one thing to read the info...entirely different when I get under the car.
I'd like to say that this is the first major repair I've attempted on this car. It's slow going...don't want to screw anything up which is why I'm asking.
#5
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
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The end-links are the vertical bolts, about 6-7" long, that connect the anti-roll bar to the lower control arms.
The u-brackets look basically like a "u" and hold the anti-roll bar to the frame of the car. Easiest way to reach the bolts is from above, snaking a long extension down and alongside the windshield washer reservoir...or therabouts. You'll need longs arms (or a helper) to hold a wrench on the nuts from below
Cheers
DD
The u-brackets look basically like a "u" and hold the anti-roll bar to the frame of the car. Easiest way to reach the bolts is from above, snaking a long extension down and alongside the windshield washer reservoir...or therabouts. You'll need longs arms (or a helper) to hold a wrench on the nuts from below
Cheers
DD
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