Need some advice on paint.
#21
Metallics are almost impossible to color match especially silver. The reason is, as the car is being painted quite a few things come into play for that particular "spraying session" They will all be of different values as opposed to when the car was originally painted. Air pressure at the gun, amount of fluid being sprayed, how far you are from the car, how hot is it outside, what is humidity, What are the "mix ratios", are you keeping the metallic in suspension in the gun continuously, how fast are you spraying, etc all these things have a huge effect on how the metallic flakes in the paint, "lay down" when the paint starts to dry (right away!).
The only way to get a uniform color reflection is to spray all of the car front to back in one pass, on final application/coat. The metallic flakes in the paint all lay down in pretty much the same way.
When I last painted my Jag I painted all the creases, opening edges, first just to make sure there were no light spots I may miss while making smooth spraying passes.
To try and match all the above mentioned conditions is very difficult at best. And a keen eye will spot the metallic flakes if they are laying on a different plane,reflecting light differently.
A complete respray is necessary if you want uniformity in the reflection from the car.
The only way to get a uniform color reflection is to spray all of the car front to back in one pass, on final application/coat. The metallic flakes in the paint all lay down in pretty much the same way.
When I last painted my Jag I painted all the creases, opening edges, first just to make sure there were no light spots I may miss while making smooth spraying passes.
To try and match all the above mentioned conditions is very difficult at best. And a keen eye will spot the metallic flakes if they are laying on a different plane,reflecting light differently.
A complete respray is necessary if you want uniformity in the reflection from the car.
Clarke, having said that, yours looks particularly fine in the photo, I think you had a good result there.
#22
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Delaneys Creek,Qld. Australia
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First off I got the boot resprayed with a great result, but after a few months the rear quarters really took a beating in the wet season with water getting under the clear coat and destroying it so took the car back to the same guy to do the top half of the car.
#23
Clear coat separation usually finds it's origin in impatience of the spray painter.
If the clear coat is applied too soon after the base coat (it really should be completely dry and matted out evenly with modern waterbased paints), the base coat will keep fuming out underneath the clear coat and eventually break to the surface. The clear coat will detach then.
When respraying, allow at least half an hour for the base coat to dry out in the paint booth at at least 20 degrees celcius, before applying the clear.
If the clear coat is applied too soon after the base coat (it really should be completely dry and matted out evenly with modern waterbased paints), the base coat will keep fuming out underneath the clear coat and eventually break to the surface. The clear coat will detach then.
When respraying, allow at least half an hour for the base coat to dry out in the paint booth at at least 20 degrees celcius, before applying the clear.
#24
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Tehama County, California, USA
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Clear coat separation usually finds it's origin in impatience of the spray painter.
If the clear coat is applied too soon after the base coat (it really should be completely dry and matted out evenly with modern waterbased paints), the base coat will keep fuming out underneath the clear coat and eventually break to the surface. The clear coat will detach then.
When respraying, allow at least half an hour for the base coat to dry out in the paint booth at at least 20 degrees celcius, before applying the clear.
If the clear coat is applied too soon after the base coat (it really should be completely dry and matted out evenly with modern waterbased paints), the base coat will keep fuming out underneath the clear coat and eventually break to the surface. The clear coat will detach then.
When respraying, allow at least half an hour for the base coat to dry out in the paint booth at at least 20 degrees celcius, before applying the clear.
(';')
#25
Not exactly.
Paint separation in factory Jaguar paintwork on old Jags is mostly caused by the bad quality paints used at the time. Especially under BL management, the paints were not of high quality even for that time.
But if a car is reprayed with modern waterbased or high solid paints, the reason I stated above is the most probable cause.
Paint separation in factory Jaguar paintwork on old Jags is mostly caused by the bad quality paints used at the time. Especially under BL management, the paints were not of high quality even for that time.
But if a car is reprayed with modern waterbased or high solid paints, the reason I stated above is the most probable cause.
#27
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Walnut Creek, California
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Elinor:
To a degree, I agree. Apologies, I could not resist. Add hot sun and any issue is exacerbated.
1. My 79 Chrysler Cordoba was "clear coated". A brown metallic, somewhat similar to the Grosvenor Brown of my Jaguar. It suffered. I used a compound and polish technique. It worked. Shine returned.
2. My 88 Tbird came in a brilliant maroon metallic. In spite of decent care, the clear burned. Ugh. Awful. A very attractive car looked awful. A fellow at church had one in grape. It burned worse and looked even worse than mine. We commiserated !!! He tried for a Ford warranty. No reasonable response. I tried the Cordoba method. It flunked. No longer needed two cars. Choice, the burnt bird or the really shiny black 85 Ford F150 4x4. Hands down dear departed wifey and I chose the truck
3. I don't think the Leyland era Jags were in clear coat. Thermoplastic was the big thing. Most did not do well. Mine seems fine in thermoplastic. As best as I can tell, it is not a repaint.
4. I don't know if my 94 Jeep Grand Cherokee is in two coat or not. But, it looks as good as a "neutral" can. Pewter.
Carl
To a degree, I agree. Apologies, I could not resist. Add hot sun and any issue is exacerbated.
1. My 79 Chrysler Cordoba was "clear coated". A brown metallic, somewhat similar to the Grosvenor Brown of my Jaguar. It suffered. I used a compound and polish technique. It worked. Shine returned.
2. My 88 Tbird came in a brilliant maroon metallic. In spite of decent care, the clear burned. Ugh. Awful. A very attractive car looked awful. A fellow at church had one in grape. It burned worse and looked even worse than mine. We commiserated !!! He tried for a Ford warranty. No reasonable response. I tried the Cordoba method. It flunked. No longer needed two cars. Choice, the burnt bird or the really shiny black 85 Ford F150 4x4. Hands down dear departed wifey and I chose the truck
3. I don't think the Leyland era Jags were in clear coat. Thermoplastic was the big thing. Most did not do well. Mine seems fine in thermoplastic. As best as I can tell, it is not a repaint.
4. I don't know if my 94 Jeep Grand Cherokee is in two coat or not. But, it looks as good as a "neutral" can. Pewter.
Carl
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