Negitive rear camber and axle shortening
#1
Negitive rear camber and axle shortening
Hey Guys, I'm in the process of researching how to achieve the camber I want in the rear of my series 3. I know i can remove the shims for some adjustment but i don't think that will give me the degree I want. Sooooo, my thinking is to shorten the half shafts and machine a custom spacer to set the camber. I'm not 100% sure until I start playing with it but I'm thinking like 3-4 degrees. Any foreseeable issues? Reference below
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#6
I've never seen anyone run camber like that before on a Jag. On paper it sounds like the shortening the axles and adding spacers wouldn't really alter the way the camber is set originally correct? its just going to allow more adjustment. When I say issues i mean like possibly the bolts not being long enough to cater to the spacer or something to that effect.
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When I say issues i mean like possibly the bolts not being long enough to cater to the spacer or something to that effect.
You're blazing the trail here.
Cheers
DD
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1. Cut the shafts. Aye, that sure would change the camber. i see the idea of shimss as a way to fine tune the degree of camber.
2. A drive line shop should have no issue at all with the project.
3. with a huge amount of luck and ingenuity, DIY might just do it.
3. A tale. Circa 52, a local had a nice 49 ford convertible. Not happy with the V8 in it. Fancied a Cad conversion that was popular. Alas a 332 CI OHV beyond his budget.
But, a 48 flat head Caddie and hydramatic was. Teh two drive shafts were cut, mted and welded on the shop floor. His uncle's shop. it worked !! Sorta. Now, a lot lower in front. The big Caddy was heavier than the Ford V8. it sounded great and according to the owner drove just fine.... ..
2. A drive line shop should have no issue at all with the project.
3. with a huge amount of luck and ingenuity, DIY might just do it.
3. A tale. Circa 52, a local had a nice 49 ford convertible. Not happy with the V8 in it. Fancied a Cad conversion that was popular. Alas a 332 CI OHV beyond his budget.
But, a 48 flat head Caddie and hydramatic was. Teh two drive shafts were cut, mted and welded on the shop floor. His uncle's shop. it worked !! Sorta. Now, a lot lower in front. The big Caddy was heavier than the Ford V8. it sounded great and according to the owner drove just fine.... ..
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#12
If by ridiculous you are meaning ridiculously cool!? HAHA I'm sure someone would argue a function to it but I honestly just like it aesthetically. Different strokes you know.
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#14
i do enjoy the negative camber, not sure on a xj6 though, not to mention the sheer number of tires you're gonna be burning through, don't forget how goddamn heavy these beasts are
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Seems that way back a pretty fast NASCAR racer did the negative camber on his mid 80's Tbirds. Bill Elliott. Straight rear axle. Bent just a tad. Put the bearings in stress.
Stuck better on track. good enough for practice qualifying and 500 miles. good enough
It does countet the tendency to tuck a tire on the outside wheel in a tight turn. .
Stuck better on track. good enough for practice qualifying and 500 miles. good enough
It does countet the tendency to tuck a tire on the outside wheel in a tight turn. .
#19
I just threw 3-4 degrees out there not knowing what will look the best. I will be modest with her......
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#20
Will mention it once more in case previous comment got missed. You may start to run into vibration issues if running much more than 1 degree. U-joints aren't constant velocity joints.
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