XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III 1968-1992

Negitive rear camber and axle shortening

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Old 06-26-2021, 10:07 AM
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Default Negitive rear camber and axle shortening

Hey Guys, I'm in the process of researching how to achieve the camber I want in the rear of my series 3. I know i can remove the shims for some adjustment but i don't think that will give me the degree I want. Sooooo, my thinking is to shorten the half shafts and machine a custom spacer to set the camber. I'm not 100% sure until I start playing with it but I'm thinking like 3-4 degrees. Any foreseeable issues? Reference below
 
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Old 06-26-2021, 10:11 AM
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Also does anyone have any experience shorting the axles? Picture below shows one method. When doing this do you turn down both ends of the yoke and use a tube to achieve length, or do you only do one end and sleeve it? Thanks!

 
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Old 06-26-2021, 10:50 AM
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I'd say it's certainly 'doable'. I'd think any shop that specializes in shortening driveshafts can shorten your axle shafts, as their really nothing more than a short driveshaft. I'm a little uncertain about this as a DIY project. Balance and straightness issues come to mind.

Cheers
DD
 
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Old 06-26-2021, 10:52 AM
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I agree with your concerns. I would defiantly be utilizing a machine shop for the fabrication work.
 
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Old 06-26-2021, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by ruffindustries
Any foreseeable issues?
Issues regarding the process of shortening the shaft? Or issues resulting from adding a lot more camber?

Cheers
DD
 
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Old 06-26-2021, 10:56 AM
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I've never seen anyone run camber like that before on a Jag. On paper it sounds like the shortening the axles and adding spacers wouldn't really alter the way the camber is set originally correct? its just going to allow more adjustment. When I say issues i mean like possibly the bolts not being long enough to cater to the spacer or something to that effect.
 
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Old 06-26-2021, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by ruffindustries
I've never seen anyone run camber like that before on a Jag. On paper it sounds like the shortening the axles and adding spacers wouldn't really alter the way the camber is set originally correct?
As I see it, yes, correct

When I say issues i mean like possibly the bolts not being long enough to cater to the spacer or something to that effect.
You'd probably need longer bolts, yes.

You're blazing the trail here.

Cheers
DD

 
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Old 06-26-2021, 11:20 AM
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I figure I might as well keep going... current state of my rear setup.....


 
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Old 06-26-2021, 11:23 AM
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Old 06-26-2021, 03:01 PM
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1. Cut the shafts. Aye, that sure would change the camber. i see the idea of shimss as a way to fine tune the degree of camber.

2. A drive line shop should have no issue at all with the project.

3. with a huge amount of luck and ingenuity, DIY might just do it.

3. A tale. Circa 52, a local had a nice 49 ford convertible. Not happy with the V8 in it. Fancied a Cad conversion that was popular. Alas a 332 CI OHV beyond his budget.
But, a 48 flat head Caddie and hydramatic was. Teh two drive shafts were cut, mted and welded on the shop floor. His uncle's shop. it worked !! Sorta. Now, a lot lower in front. The big Caddy was heavier than the Ford V8. it sounded great and according to the owner drove just fine.... ..
 
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Old 06-26-2021, 03:52 PM
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Is the point of that to look ridiculous/odd or is there a handling advantage?
(asking for a friend)
 
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Old 06-26-2021, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by motorcarman
Is the point of that to look ridiculous/odd or is there a handling advantage?
(asking for a friend)
If by ridiculous you are meaning ridiculously cool!? HAHA I'm sure someone would argue a function to it but I honestly just like it aesthetically. Different strokes you know.
 
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Old 06-26-2021, 07:52 PM
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U-joints aren't going to be happy with that much camber. U-joints aren't constant velocity, so they need equal and opposite angle at each end to cancel each other out.

Greg
 
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Old 06-26-2021, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by ruffindustries
If by ridiculous you are meaning ridiculously cool!? HAHA I'm sure someone would argue a function to it but I honestly just like it aesthetically. Different strokes you know.
i do enjoy the negative camber, not sure on a xj6 though, not to mention the sheer number of tires you're gonna be burning through, don't forget how goddamn heavy these beasts are
 
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Old 06-26-2021, 10:10 PM
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In a previous life someone set Nix's rear camber at -1 and welded it up.
Even one degree negative is noticeable, but it doesn't eat tires.
Only corners like it's on rails.
(';')
 
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Old 06-27-2021, 05:24 AM
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I say, gentlemen, don't you feel 3-4 degrees negative is rather excessive?

Nevertherless, I would like a little more NC on my LHS (all shims removed) so I like your thinking.
 
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Old 06-27-2021, 09:00 AM
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I agree (although not being a Gentleman I have waited for Guys to say it first), 3-4 degrees IS excessive.
As I mentioned above, even 1 degree is noticeable. In these parts, only Boy Racers with 9 inch rims on Slammed Hondas set their camber so aggressively.
(';')
 
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Old 06-27-2021, 03:08 PM
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Seems that way back a pretty fast NASCAR racer did the negative camber on his mid 80's Tbirds. Bill Elliott. Straight rear axle. Bent just a tad. Put the bearings in stress.

Stuck better on track. good enough for practice qualifying and 500 miles. good enough

It does countet the tendency to tuck a tire on the outside wheel in a tight turn. .
 
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Old 06-28-2021, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by LnrB
I agree (although not being a Gentleman I have waited for Guys to say it first), 3-4 degrees IS excessive.
As I mentioned above, even 1 degree is noticeable. In these parts, only Boy Racers with 9 inch rims on Slammed Hondas set their camber so aggressively.
(';')
I just threw 3-4 degrees out there not knowing what will look the best. I will be modest with her......
 
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Old 06-29-2021, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by ruffindustries
I just threw 3-4 degrees out there not knowing what will look the best. I will be modest with her......
Will mention it once more in case previous comment got missed. You may start to run into vibration issues if running much more than 1 degree. U-joints aren't constant velocity joints.
 
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