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HI all. I'm a new member. I have a 1926 Ford Roadster and when I purchased the chassis, it came with a Jaguar IRS rear end. I have removed it and have it on my workbench right now to overhaul the bearings, brakes and rotors. I have enclosed a picture in hopes that someone out there with much more experience with these things than I have could help me identify the year and model this came out of so I can purchase the replacement parts. Any help would be sincerely appreciated.
Thanks all
John Pietracci
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Looks like a series 2 XJ6. 1974 to 1978 or early series 3- 1979+. Or early XJS. Whats the diff ratio? It would be early series two if was open diff with 3.31, early XJS if its 3.08 and limited slip all others will be 2.88. If it 2.88 and limited slip its 80's XJS.
I see 2 options..
1. Lots of corrosion and a damaged / cracked rear hub carrier. Whats the ratio? If it's 2.88 open , through the whole lot in a bin. It's past it. Get a newer one, usually many people parting series 3 and late XJS cars all over the world.
2. If the diff is good and a favorable ratio for your application, get some late XJS or XJ40 hubs and 1/2 shafts and service the rest. The XJ40 1/2 shafts use a newer style sealed ujoints that seldom need replacing and outboard brakes. The hub are stronger and the hand brake might actually work some day. The outboard brakes are better in every way. Easier to bleed, service and they work far better too.
I see 2 options..
1. Lots of corrosion and a damaged / cracked rear hub carrier. Whats the ratio? If it's 2.88 open , through the whole lot in a bin. It's past it. Get a newer one, usually many people parting series 3 and late XJS cars all over the world.
2. If the diff is good and a favorable ratio for your application, get some late XJS or XJ40 hubs and 1/2 shafts and service the rest. The XJ40 1/2 shafts use a newer style sealed ujoints that seldom need replacing and outboard brakes. The hub are stronger and the hand brake might actually work some day. The outboard brakes are better in every way. Easier to bleed, service and they work far better too.
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Welcome John.
1. The project I built from scratch befre the Jaguar came was a 26/27 T roadster "Hot Rod of the forties". My first car circa 1946 was a T!! I've always had an affinity for them.
Post pictures. All or at least a lot of us will enjoy them...
2. Yean, the 2.88 is the most common. My 83 XJ wuzza 6 still runs it. The LT1 has enough suds to pull it even in .70 OD. So, it might be just for your T! A lot depends.
street T or strip!!
3. Turn the diff input Compare to the ring gear. Not quite 3 to 1 suggest 2.88. a
bit more, 3/31 or so. Remove the cover to make it easier. Good to have a look inside, and perhaps a glitzy cover!! or at least clean and painted.
4. If you decide to keep the inboard brakes, and it seem that you are, it's time to renew the calipers.
5. If the little hand brake calipers are there, they are fiddly to make work properly. Mine do not. And I'm way too far down the trail to get down and under and fix them...
Carl .
1. The project I built from scratch befre the Jaguar came was a 26/27 T roadster "Hot Rod of the forties". My first car circa 1946 was a T!! I've always had an affinity for them.
Post pictures. All or at least a lot of us will enjoy them...
2. Yean, the 2.88 is the most common. My 83 XJ wuzza 6 still runs it. The LT1 has enough suds to pull it even in .70 OD. So, it might be just for your T! A lot depends.
street T or strip!!
3. Turn the diff input Compare to the ring gear. Not quite 3 to 1 suggest 2.88. a
bit more, 3/31 or so. Remove the cover to make it easier. Good to have a look inside, and perhaps a glitzy cover!! or at least clean and painted.
4. If you decide to keep the inboard brakes, and it seem that you are, it's time to renew the calipers.
5. If the little hand brake calipers are there, they are fiddly to make work properly. Mine do not. And I'm way too far down the trail to get down and under and fix them...
Carl .
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