New owner with questions
#1
New owner with questions
I recently inherited an '85 XJ6 from a close relative. We were supposed to work on it together before he passed but his time came sooner. I am somewhat familiar with these cars since my parents had an '87 in mint condition that I drove from time to time. They eventually sold it when they got tired of it taking up space in their garage. I wasn't thinking at the time and didn't get it. I ended up driving it more than them.
The car that I inherited has been in my uncle's garage for over 10 years with the windows down. He had it on jack stands because I think the transmission went out on him the last time he drove it. I finally got it out of the garage and put it somewhere that is out of the elements. I do all of my own work on my other cars and I have the Haynes manual for this car. I also bought the Service Manual. This is where I need some help:
The car that I inherited has been in my uncle's garage for over 10 years with the windows down. He had it on jack stands because I think the transmission went out on him the last time he drove it. I finally got it out of the garage and put it somewhere that is out of the elements. I do all of my own work on my other cars and I have the Haynes manual for this car. I also bought the Service Manual. This is where I need some help:
- I was only able to locate one key that works in the ignition and the door locks. The gas tanks and trunk are locked. How do I go about getting keys for these?
- I managed to use jumper cables to get the windows up except the left rear window. Where should I start to get this working?
- In trying to find a battery, I keep finding that different years used different batteries. The 86-87 used a different battery from the 85 and earlier even though they seem to be identical cars. What are the differences between model years with the Series III and what battery can I use?
- This car has been sitting for a while and ran before it was parked. What steps should I take to get this car started or before starting it?
#2
Battery: some had side post, some top post. Either way nothing exotic is required by way of replacement. Just go to Sears, AutoZone, whatever.
Window: most likely the switch(es)...common problem on these cars. Exercise the switch vigorously or swap it with a known good switch or remove it and disassemble to clean the contacts.
Resurection: plan on flushing the fuel system at minimum. I'd drain the fuel and see how it looks and be guided from there. It'll probably be rusty...which means the whole system will be rusty. Same for the brake system, by the way.
With a clean fuel system and fresh fuel I'd pull the plugs and squirt some oil in the cylinders and turn the engine briefly on the starter a couple times a day for a for 2-3 days. I'd inasall fresh oil and new filter, pre-filled. Then, with the plugs still out, spin the engine on the starter until oil pressure registers on the gauge. Reinstall plugs and she if she'll run.
Might wanna check the water and trans fluid before starting.
After it runs you can move on to the brakes
At some point you'll probably want all new fluids, hoses (especially fuel and brake hoses), tires, etc. But first see it she'll run and drive before going overboard.
Cheers
DD
Window: most likely the switch(es)...common problem on these cars. Exercise the switch vigorously or swap it with a known good switch or remove it and disassemble to clean the contacts.
Resurection: plan on flushing the fuel system at minimum. I'd drain the fuel and see how it looks and be guided from there. It'll probably be rusty...which means the whole system will be rusty. Same for the brake system, by the way.
With a clean fuel system and fresh fuel I'd pull the plugs and squirt some oil in the cylinders and turn the engine briefly on the starter a couple times a day for a for 2-3 days. I'd inasall fresh oil and new filter, pre-filled. Then, with the plugs still out, spin the engine on the starter until oil pressure registers on the gauge. Reinstall plugs and she if she'll run.
Might wanna check the water and trans fluid before starting.
After it runs you can move on to the brakes
At some point you'll probably want all new fluids, hoses (especially fuel and brake hoses), tires, etc. But first see it she'll run and drive before going overboard.
Cheers
DD
#3
Good advice. Luckily, even though mine had been sitting when purchased, I am able to drive it. With that said though, I am sure I will need to start replacing hoses and squeaking belts sooner than later.
Good tip on the windows too, as my back windows do not work at all (thankfully they are up). I will check out the switches first.
Good tip on the windows too, as my back windows do not work at all (thankfully they are up). I will check out the switches first.
#5
Good to hear about another series III resurrection.
Seems like you have had all the answers so far except for your key issue.
It sounds to me like you have only the "valet key" and not the regular key.
The door key should fit the gas caps and the glove box lock. The car was issued new with a valet key which fit only the doors and NOT the trunk, gas caps or glove box. So once determining that you can go to a dealer to actually order a brand new key even already cut provided that you still have the locks it left the factory with.
It is my experience that not all dealer’s will or can supply keys for these cars.
In all of Toronto I have found ONE dealer (Robert Motors for the record).
In Virginia I have been several times to Browns in Richmond. I see you are in VA, I have spent lots of time in Richmond with my Jags in the past
They have had blanks in stock before and whenever I was in Richmond I would buy them without having to order them (uncut of course). In your case you will need to order at least one full spare set and a key to replace the "valet key" which you would need to keep if you ever need to use it for its original purpose. The keys take a couple of days and usually work very well.
One word of warning though the original ignition key is now made in Italy and t looks like a FIAT key. I would love to get an original type of key blank they have an "HD" stamped into one side and they are chunky and squarish like the original.
Funny I should stumble onto this today, this morning at breakfast I was looking at all my keys and wondering about Browns in Richmond. I was thinking of calling parts on Monday to find out if they still have any blanks in the original style, I am serious this actually went through my mind.
So Jstbugn, please let me know if you have luck at browns and what type of key they give you. I will have them ship me a new supply to Canada if they still exist.
There, lots of key stuff to ponder.
JustV12
Seems like you have had all the answers so far except for your key issue.
It sounds to me like you have only the "valet key" and not the regular key.
The door key should fit the gas caps and the glove box lock. The car was issued new with a valet key which fit only the doors and NOT the trunk, gas caps or glove box. So once determining that you can go to a dealer to actually order a brand new key even already cut provided that you still have the locks it left the factory with.
It is my experience that not all dealer’s will or can supply keys for these cars.
In all of Toronto I have found ONE dealer (Robert Motors for the record).
In Virginia I have been several times to Browns in Richmond. I see you are in VA, I have spent lots of time in Richmond with my Jags in the past
They have had blanks in stock before and whenever I was in Richmond I would buy them without having to order them (uncut of course). In your case you will need to order at least one full spare set and a key to replace the "valet key" which you would need to keep if you ever need to use it for its original purpose. The keys take a couple of days and usually work very well.
One word of warning though the original ignition key is now made in Italy and t looks like a FIAT key. I would love to get an original type of key blank they have an "HD" stamped into one side and they are chunky and squarish like the original.
Funny I should stumble onto this today, this morning at breakfast I was looking at all my keys and wondering about Browns in Richmond. I was thinking of calling parts on Monday to find out if they still have any blanks in the original style, I am serious this actually went through my mind.
So Jstbugn, please let me know if you have luck at browns and what type of key they give you. I will have them ship me a new supply to Canada if they still exist.
There, lots of key stuff to ponder.
JustV12
#6
All of Doug's advice is good. I would just add that the Series 3 had the big valve head, and these get quite close to the pistons in normal running. In my case, after standing about 2 years, I managed to bend a valve after starting as the valve guides were dry and the valve was a bit lazy in coming back as the piston came up. I would suggest, therefore, that you take off the valve covers and lubricate everything before trying to start the car. Alternatively, crank the engine over a lot and get some oil pressure on the gauge before starting the engine. You will have to take a lead off the coil to do this.
#7
Thanks again for the responses. The key information is probably my first challenge since I can't get to the tanks or see what's in the trunk. I am in Northern Virginia and Rosenthal Jaguar is the closest one to me. I will check them out first thing. I will work on getting the engine going next.
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