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Hi, I'm currently de-rusting / cleaning my tanks which will be a new thread when I'm done, so I made my own tool ( from extra stuff in the garage ). I have the Series 3 with limited space so I used a 2" PVC plumbing coupler with a short piece of pipe to make a thicker wall tube, cut three slots for the tabs then mounted a short 1"x3" with two screws to let it pivot on the other end of the coupler to use as a handle. I'll post pictures tomorrow, It's way simpler than it sounds. It sounds like the earlier models might be easier to access for the punch / hammer method and not worth the effort.
I didn't have the space to swing a hammer (I tried a Lot of times), hence the wrench thingy.
My sender was so corroded there was no way I could fix it.
Besides. I was in Renewal Mode and this was merely another component in a 40+ year old car to replace, once and for all for the next 40 years.
(';')
As Doug said " The left side was just slightly lower than the right. Not by much, maybe 10mm or so. But it's one of those things that once seen cannot be unseen [img]file:///C:/Users/DAVID/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image001.gif[/img]. It was a bit of an itch."
My Right hand Fuel Quantity reading was low by 3/16th to 1/4th when tank was full. Itch got better of me so I plunged in. Found various ABS plumbing fittings and made sending unit removal tool. ABS #5803-2-TPA 1 1/2" NIBCO pipe fitting, plus some 1" plastic pipe.. Cut three notches in flange and glued together.
Removed sender, bent wire down 3/4" and reinstalled.
Now I am within a needle width of full when tank full.
Thanks Doug for getting me motivated!!!
David
Last edited by David84XJ6; 01-23-2021 at 09:59 PM.
I've just replaced my Driver's side fueling sending unit gasket and lock ring. The old one was leaking when there was more than five gallons in it. It is still leaking, even with the new gasket and lock ring. Only now it's with 3 gallons and stops when there is only 2 gallons. Obviously, pressure of the liquid has something to do with it. So... how do I know how far to tighten the new lock ring? I can't remember from doing the other side as to whether it dropped into a detent or something to show it's fully locked in. I suppose there is also the possibility of the sending unit itself is actually leaking?
It's only a ramped lip on the ring with NO detent. only a positive stop at the end of the ramp.
If it still leaks, then you haven't got it tight enough, unless, as you suggest, the unit itself is leaking, which I've never heard of.
In my garage I would keep tightening it until the leak stopped.
That might call for some specialized tightening tools. (hammer and punch)
It might take a while for the gasket to compress enough to seal. Multiple beatings might be required.
(';')
LNR - Yes to your point the new gasket is much thicker than the old deteriorated one that was compressed for years. I found using a new lock ring and gasket, that one of thethree bent over detents in the tank opening itself required bending over just a bit more. The ramp on the lock ring was slipping out of one of these detents. Job apart, banged detent in just a bit, back together with all three ramps now under a detent, and making even contact on the gasket. I will leave the splash pan off for a while and see if the new gasket compresses a bit, so I can tighten the ring a bit more. Or just let sleeping dogs lie. I filled that tank this morning - with NO LEAKAGE whatsoever! BTW - on my Series II tanks, the pickup tube actually just fits into a hallow in the drain plug under the tank. So when I run it dry, which I do periodically, if I remove the drain plug about 1/2 a teaspoon comes out. So as a result of the pickup tube being so low in the tank, any crude gets picked up and the trunk fuel filter picks it up. So my tanks are perfectly clean all the time. I kinda like that.