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It was good. Very good. The car corners much flatter than I expected and is super smooth and tight. The chassis stiffening focused around the cowl area really paid off. The steering feels super precise even with the 15 inch 235 series tires. Looks like the 2015 red coupe is getting some upgrades soon. This is my 3rd major coupe project and the tightest with the least metal added but in all the right places. Taking apart many XJS's and 1 DB7 really helped me understand where the chassis needs strengthening.
I have a well maintained and all original XJ6C with 43k miles for comparison. I drove both cars back to back. Both cars have smooth I6 engines with a tight converters and a nice engine note, but that's where the driving similarities end. The difference in chassis solidity is night and day. I also have a 1995 XJS V12 6 speed that I drove yesterday and this coupe feels solid like that car but far less nose heavy.
The one thing I didnt expect is how the Aj16 just runs out of breath at about 4500 RPM. It makes so much low RPM torque, good mid range power and is so smooth that is seems like it wants to keep going and it just doesn't. I really wish Jag kept going with this engine and perhaps added VVT so they could squeeze another 1000 PRM out of it but they and other luxury marques shifted to V8's for many reasons.
The Transmission was perfect. The ZF 4hp24 is smooth and refined. It seems to always be in the right gear and down shifts quickly when prodded with the right foot. It seems to be very well programmed to the engines power band.
I never drove a late I6 XJS so I really didnt know what to expect. This I6 transplant was a leap of faith based on other peoples admiration of the Aj16. Over all the car performed well, no gremlins or unusual noises. The cooling and electrical systems operated normally and the HVAC system sensed temperate and adjusted air temp and fan speed as designed I did notice the speedometer and interior signal indicators no-longer work.
The signals were flashing outside but not inside, so I'll have to chase those issues down while I wait for some body parts.
Over all it's shaping up to be as it was intended. A smooth, reliable, unique, stylish, fuel efficient and capable GT.
Next step is metal work and all the prep for euro bumpers and then off to paint.
Last edited by icsamerica; 03-12-2018 at 04:42 PM.
Thanks - think I've found a collision damaged 96 AJ16 convertible xjs which could work, going to see it soon. There are lots of earlier xjs's in bay area cheap but I'm really looking for the late model xjs convertible running gear and a xj12 engine if I can find one. the only 95/96 xj12's I've found have been in wider NYC area, presumably retired cars that were used to ferry our banking overlords around...
I'd really like a 12 if I can find one for a sensible price...
I've found a 95/96 sideswiped xjs convertible with the aj16 in it, thinking I might swap everything over from that car for now. Unless I can find a 95/96 xj12 soon this seems like a workable solution for now. any gotchas with the xjs? Cheers
No gotcha's just takes a lot of time fitting everything with minor mods.
For a daily driver I'd certainly go AJ16. It's more fuel efficient and more nimble as the AJ16 and 4hp24 are a lower mass. Performance is sufficient. Also super easy to work on as the I6 offers easy access to everything.
For an all out occasion car I'd go X305 V12 and T56 speed. Not good to daily becasue of clutch work and fuel cost but each time behind the wheel would be an occasion. Very high cost but would be a special car.
Last edited by icsamerica; 03-12-2018 at 12:34 PM.
I'm Glad you like it!
I'm on pins and needles. I'm guessing My AJ16s 5sp will be a torque monster!
Rusty
Yeah... I would say so. with some pressure it's gonna be a hoot from 2500 to 4300. I found this dyno sheet and it seems to confirm... AJ16 torque peak at about 3850.
I'm appreciating it for what it is with it's, torquey engine, precise steering, smoothess, large sidewall tires, Bilstein comfort shocks and rear sway bar... A modern, classic and capable GT. Geez... I must be getting soft in my older days.... but then again... I do have that AM v12 with T56 up next.
Last edited by icsamerica; 03-12-2018 at 04:59 PM.
Work on the 2017 coupe will continue in the fall...It's mechanically and electrically complete. Just searching for some new doors because I found some rust that is difficult to repair in both doors. I may just reskin the door I have if nothing turns up. Either way this will continue in the fall when the days get short.
2 piece driveshaft. Front half was shortend about 2 inches for the AJ16 / ZF (4hp24) drive train. Two peice was retained for smoothness. At 52 inches, it's just beyond the 48 inch threshhold most consider acceptible for a 1 piece. With the 3.54 gear and over drive that shaft is going to be doing some high speed spinning. The smoothness of a two peice is worth the 45$ extra cost over a new grumbly 1 piece.
Interesting stuff. I have a question: is there a procedure or a technique to determine a required driveshaft length or was this a guesstimate?
I want to transplant the drivetrain from my wrecked '96 XJR (I would really like a manual gearbox to go along with it but I have failed to source that so I will settle for what I have) to my Series 3 XJ6 (whose engine was seized when I bought it)...
Last edited by someguywithajag; 06-29-2018 at 07:08 PM.
Reason: grammar
yes, put engine in car, measure from the flange of the differential to the flange of the transmission. Once you have that total length you need to subtract it from the original shaft while the slip joint is 3/4 of the way in. So lets say your original shaft was 52 inches with with the slip joint 3/4 of the way in... but flange to flange after the engine transplant is 50 inches, You set you slip joint to 3/4 of the way in and then have a driveshaft shop subtract the difference (2 inches) from only the front portion of the 2 piece drive shaft.
Simply put, what ever difference in shaft length is....just change it on the front portion of the shaft.
The 2017 Coupe project gets back on track while I wait for parts that never seem to arrive for other projects. So back to work on it until the cadre of parts for an OT Porsche 928S, 5 speed arrive. Glass is out and progress is being made.
I was not able to find new doors so I sourced some patch panels from David Bodger. He cut the sections I needed off a sedan door and it was a great fit and time saver. The metal is the right gauge and has the right curve. Patch panel fitted to door, prior to welding. Door was cut open on the back side do weld can be finished, rust proofed and sealed.
I really didnt enjoy cutting up a perfectly good series 3 fender to fit Euro signals.
Patch panel inserted with correct opening for Euro lamps. Sourced from David Bodger.
Metal prep done...Took two hours. One done, one to go!
Paint soon, perhaps in a few weeks.
Last edited by icsamerica; 07-06-2018 at 10:56 PM.
- I'm doing exactly the same thing as you - I was contemplating gluing the patch panels in in case the wings flex too much. Took the patch panels out of the badly damaged wings of my XJC to be grafted into SIII wings.
Instead of welding I put a backing plate on the patch panel, set it up with cleco clips and then plyogrip glue the backing panel in and pop rivet. Grind off pop rivet heads and metal finish. Can't decide whether to do that or weld it, in areas that stress and flex it can help.
same with the series 1 skin I'm grafting into area where a fork lift whacked the rear quarter.
I'm way behind on this project but going back and forth to England last few months and next month which is good for parts chasing.
The 2017 Coupe project gets back on track while I wait for parts that never seem to arrive for other projects. So back to work on it until the cadre of parts for an OT Porsche 928S, 5 speed arrive. Glass is out and progress is being made.
I was not able to find new doors so I sourced some patch panels from David Bodger. He cut the sections I needed off a sedan door and it was a great fit and time saver. The metal is the right gauge and has the right curve. Patch panel fitted to door, prior to welding. Door was cut open on the back side do weld can be finished, rust proofed and sealed.
I really didnt enjoy cutting up a perfectly good series 3 fender to fit Euro signals.
Patch panel inserted with correct opening for Euro lamps. Sourced from David Bodger.
Metal prep done...Took two hours. One done, one to go!
Rusty, I like 'em too. Seems like wheels and tires are staying, they are 235 series and I like the combo for this car's intended sport-cruising disposition.
More chassis reinforcements while I waited for Porsche 928 Parts... they've arrived so this project is back on hold for awhile.
The cross brace for the dash could be a structural member but the tabs that tie it into the bottom of the A pillar are just flexible tabs.
Stiffening strut under the boxed section. Provides a good foundation to weld to.
So now they've been Reinforced and triangulated here. A new square tube dash cross piece will be fab'd up when time allows, then it all comes out for metal finishing and an additional boxed section in the center.
Triangulated and boxed, this tab is now an important structural member.
Why sell when so much work gone into it?
You must have a lot of spare time if you planning another already!
It's a good question. I dont have a good answer. I'm up to about 10 cars. I'm down to 3 XJ coupes now and this one is the most sell-able. I dont want to sell my XJC track car and the next XJC will be the best one, What does a guy who likes to work on cars do with one that doesn't need work?
No spare time, I'm just a work-a-haulic. I never stop.
It's a good question. I dont have a good answer. I'm up to about 10 cars. I'm down to 3 XJ coupes now and this one is the most sell-able. I dont want to sell my XJC track car and the next XJC will be the best one, What does a guy who likes to work on cars do with one that doesn't need work?
No spare time, I'm just a work-a-haulic. I never stop.
03-12-2018, 08:35 AM
