newbe help
#181
#182
#183
#185
v12s - Official Website has the entire harness but expensive...
even if you don't buy anything, visit the site and read the Fuel Injection Guide, it tells you to disconnect the battery and depressurize the fuel system...
even if you don't buy anything, visit the site and read the Fuel Injection Guide, it tells you to disconnect the battery and depressurize the fuel system...
#187
#190
broken injector wire repaired and flickering but no change /no start..the wire was very brittle and broke once more before repair... im thinking about just going ahead and buying new harness and injectors.. all are original..it seems almost as hard to take off the rail and check as it is to replace or replace work is easier.. im at the point that I guess were thinking its the injectors and or harness. so should i test the rail/injectors off before hand or replace. just thoughts on what you guys would do. I got the car for a great price and im not worried about the money I have into it as of yet.
but whatever you do, disconnect the battery.
#192
#193
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Walnut Creek, California
Posts: 6,796
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This is all over the map diagnostics. Not the better way. but, I am guilty of it at times. It failed me on why I have a couple of dead electric boxes here!! Swapped the outlest and switch. N o go. House fuse OK?
So, here, if no spark at the plugs, jump battery + to coil plus and retry for spark. If there is and the car starts, the issue is somewhere between the switch and the coil. If no, then try the amp to coil -. Insert a test lamp in series.
Crank the engine, the lamp should blink on and off signifying the amp and relutor are doing their jobs. If no blink or no light at all, it is in the amp and/or dizzy. Gotta be assured of a good bright blue fat spark before anythoing else. Wimpy yellow not good enough.
And, once you get reliable spark to the plugs, each and every time, if the casr doesn't run, off to fuelig diagnosis. Caution, the ignition timing must be on the spot. HT wires off 180, mislocated, etc. Easy to do if the HT cables were changed.
Smoke at the coil is a symptom that must be checked out. Ballast resistor inf present. lousy connections, oil on the wires.
Now, if all done, prime the engine. Safest is a dram in each cylinder. A bit riskier is a shot of ether in the intake. If the engione fires for a short time, it's fuel delivery isn't there. Start with a fuel pressure guage at the rail.
At times, sticky injectors respond to a small whack with the handle of a screw driver.
But, a thin rod or mechanics stethoscope outta allow you to hear the injectors click as the engine is cranked. Even my ear can do that, if my aid is in, o'wise, uh, uh!
Keep plugging, the epiphany will come, vroooom.
Carl
So, here, if no spark at the plugs, jump battery + to coil plus and retry for spark. If there is and the car starts, the issue is somewhere between the switch and the coil. If no, then try the amp to coil -. Insert a test lamp in series.
Crank the engine, the lamp should blink on and off signifying the amp and relutor are doing their jobs. If no blink or no light at all, it is in the amp and/or dizzy. Gotta be assured of a good bright blue fat spark before anythoing else. Wimpy yellow not good enough.
And, once you get reliable spark to the plugs, each and every time, if the casr doesn't run, off to fuelig diagnosis. Caution, the ignition timing must be on the spot. HT wires off 180, mislocated, etc. Easy to do if the HT cables were changed.
Smoke at the coil is a symptom that must be checked out. Ballast resistor inf present. lousy connections, oil on the wires.
Now, if all done, prime the engine. Safest is a dram in each cylinder. A bit riskier is a shot of ether in the intake. If the engione fires for a short time, it's fuel delivery isn't there. Start with a fuel pressure guage at the rail.
At times, sticky injectors respond to a small whack with the handle of a screw driver.
But, a thin rod or mechanics stethoscope outta allow you to hear the injectors click as the engine is cranked. Even my ear can do that, if my aid is in, o'wise, uh, uh!
Keep plugging, the epiphany will come, vroooom.
Carl
#196
So, To date here is everything that has been replaced on this car:
--Full tune-up bits
--Fuel pump/filter
--Coil
--Known working ECU, Injector Resistor Pack, and Red firewall relay
--Fuel injectors
--Fuel injector wiring harness
--Fuel pump relay
We have essentially tried every single test and procedure recommended and replaced everything with new parts or tested and working parts.
What else could possibly cause this issue? A bad ground somewhere? More bad wiring?
Where to go next?
--Full tune-up bits
--Fuel pump/filter
--Coil
--Known working ECU, Injector Resistor Pack, and Red firewall relay
--Fuel injectors
--Fuel injector wiring harness
--Fuel pump relay
We have essentially tried every single test and procedure recommended and replaced everything with new parts or tested and working parts.
What else could possibly cause this issue? A bad ground somewhere? More bad wiring?
Where to go next?
#198
#199
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Walnut Creek, California
Posts: 6,796
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Back to basics. An internal combustion engine needs the following to function. Air, fuel spark, compression, all at the right time and in the case of fuel, in the right amount.
So, the diagniostic path must be guided by these requirements.
1. If the engine has no compression, it is not likely to run. A wet and dry test can be very conclusive if properly executed. At this stage, almnost a gotta be.
2. As you changed the plug wires, were they replaced in the proper order? Easy to mess that up. Don't ask!
3. If you are certain of number two and the distributor is delivering a fat blue spark to the plugs, go to 4. A wimpy yellow will not do.
4. Prime the engine. Safest is to squirt a shot of gasoline into each cylinder and then crank. Or, a bit riskier, squirt ether (starting fluid) into the intake at the throttle, open, of course.
Report back, others will help.
I'm off to watch the Raider footbsll gme and later to see if the giasnts can put the tigers away again and take the World Series trophy home. I almost, but not quite, wish that the Tigers win this one and that the giants can do the job in front of the home fans aty ATT in SF.
Carl
So, the diagniostic path must be guided by these requirements.
1. If the engine has no compression, it is not likely to run. A wet and dry test can be very conclusive if properly executed. At this stage, almnost a gotta be.
2. As you changed the plug wires, were they replaced in the proper order? Easy to mess that up. Don't ask!
3. If you are certain of number two and the distributor is delivering a fat blue spark to the plugs, go to 4. A wimpy yellow will not do.
4. Prime the engine. Safest is to squirt a shot of gasoline into each cylinder and then crank. Or, a bit riskier, squirt ether (starting fluid) into the intake at the throttle, open, of course.
Report back, others will help.
I'm off to watch the Raider footbsll gme and later to see if the giasnts can put the tigers away again and take the World Series trophy home. I almost, but not quite, wish that the Tigers win this one and that the giants can do the job in front of the home fans aty ATT in SF.
Carl
#200