Yes.

I'm not trying to bust your ba**s but follow up on old posts and suggestions before asking for new ideas.

Did you clean the green oxidation from the diode pack terminals? Results?

Did you follow the fuel pump checklist? Results?

Did you come to any conclusion on the lack of voltage to the diode pack, and clarify/check the "W2" terminal of the starter relay? Results?


Plan a methodical step-by-step approach and stick to the plan! Record the results. Eliminate each fault as it comes along then move along to the next step.

Sometimes testing isn't conclusive and/or the result is confusing....but in most cases sticking to a plan will yield an answer.

You might wanna step away from the car for a day and come back with a fresh outlook. No criticism in that, mind you. Even old veterans will fall back and regroup when faced with a tough problem. Often enough you'll return to a project and the problem jumps right out at you and you wonder how the heck you missed it before!

Cheers
DD

 

will do.. just maybe i didnt explain what lead to the no start well enough..again thanks to all

 

the problem can only be two things: electrical or fueling systems. In each system, there are many components involved. The car was running but based on the history you narrated, something was going dead until it died.

you asked for other ideas and based on your narration here's what I can suggest:

1) another issue I have had in the past is the Ignition Switch itself going dead, but if the starter is cranking, then a bad ignitor can be safely eliminated.

2) the Neutral Safety Switch out of adjustment or dead, which is a rare ocurrence. The NSS is located on the right side of the shifter towards the front of the shifter, the console ashtray panel needs to be removed to access the NSS.

But if you do not have the Factory Manual, explaining how to adjust the NSS or even testing it would require a long write. If the NSS is out of adjustment, the engine will not start. If correctly adjusted, the engine will start in Park or Neutral ONLY. Have you tried starting in NEUTRAL? Testing the NSS requires a 9v battery with a couple wires and a light bulb which the Factory Manual shows you how to build to make sure the NSS is not dead.

An easy test to eliminate FUELING as the cause of no start, is to get starting fluid through the intake; If the engine starts, you have easily eliminated electrical, even if the engine dies right away after consuming the starting fluid.
Have you tried that?

Retrace your steps: what have you worked on? could you have left something disconnected? incorrectly connected?

 

Ok I have tryed evrything thats been suggested exept the NSS. I have shot start fluid and it does nothing.

Doug...... Itook off the start relay and all looks ok. At w2 is where I changed out the new wire to the diode. I traced the 2nd wire from w2 as far as I could see and no brakes in that as well.. i jave retraced but Im going to start again and check everything ..thanks guys

 

ok did it all i think... # 8 of the fuel pump check lists says if voltage is not present at termin. 5 then the diode is faulty.. there is nothing at 3 or 5 so iam going to replace both .. I ican get a start relay but ill have to wait until i can get a diode..

 

the diode pack you are replacing is the red relay mounted on the firewall, rear of engine, correct?

 

Tudstuen, It is very easy to get frustrated when you are bombarded with so many ideas all at once. I have been following this post very closely and I am amazed at the amount of info being thrown out there. STOP!!!. Lets go back to the beginning.
1.You said you had spark at the spark plugs.
2. You said that you had an issue with the fuel pump.
3. That then changed to ' no injector pulse'.
If you have spark and you sprayed fuel, the car should start. The question I have is whether you are working alone. If you are, go back and spray some fuel into the intake. Get in the car and open the throttle (WOT), not pump then crank the engine. Make sure your battery is fully charged as you may have to crank the engine continuously until the fuel is vaporized enough to ignite. The car should start no matter what. The reason for opening the throttle is; if you spray raw fuel into the intake, you need to supply air to vaporize the fuel. If the fuel is not vaporized, the car will not start. It will run until the fuel is used up. If the car starts, then you know that the ignition system is functional. Spraying fuel into the intake eliminates the need for any kind of sensor input. The only requirement in your particular case is fuel, compression and spark. Nothing else. if the engine does not start, verify spark and try again. You said you had compression. I remember you saying that the car ran and then it died, so I am assuming that compression is good. Assuming that the engine fires if you follow the above, you will now move to the fuel supply system. If the pump working? do you have fuel at the fuel rail? If you do, is it pressurized? If you don't have fuel pressure at the fuel rail or injector, go back to the fuel pump. On the firewall, look for the relay that has a white/green tracer wire. This is the wire that goes to the pump. Activate the pump by disconnecting this wire from the relay and with a jumper go directly the + terminal of the battery. This will power up the pump constantly. If you did this and the pump powered up, go back to the relay and verify you have power with the key on at the brown wire and if I am not mistaken the white wire. I am going to check on my car and confirm. Again if you are working alone, set up your test light so you can see it when you turn the key on. This wire should have constant ignition"ON" power. This is the same relay that would shut the pump down if the ECU does not sense cranking RPM. STOP! When you have verified all of the above, You can go back and follow Doug's input, which is very good. However, in my opinion, you are checking stuff way ahead of where your actual problem is. I am basing my opinion on the feedback you have been posting on the forum. Step back and reassess where you are. Also, if you need a good diode pack and the "shinny cigarette size thingy" (Doug). Send me your address and I will mail it to you. I have 4 good diode packs and two shinny thingys. lol
Don't struggle my friend, Save all of the info given to you by Doug. We will help you through this. I work by myself, and I know how desperate one can get when trying to solve an issue. I back away, take a shower if need be, have a beer or something stronger depending in the issue and THEN BACK TO WORK. I always succeed.
I give you this advice because it is the same one, (without the alcohol) I gave to my students in Auto Tech classes.
Frank.

 

Frank,
Iam going to try what you suggest. It would be great to get those parts. How do I pay you..paypal?

 

No charge. Verify that you need them first. Once you complete the stuff in the previous post, if you need them, I will mail them to you. You will pay for the shipping cost if you can. Get the engine fired up first and post results.

 

Thanks ill owe a a beer or stronger..

I do not see the valve on the rail to hook-up the gauge ..it should be like a bike tire valve I thought

 

If you do not have a schraeder valve, find a way to connect it in-line. there should be a threaded portion in the fuel line near the FPR. did you try to get it fired up using the fuel spray and WOT? What happened?

 

yes it fired up. do you meen FPR ..fuel pump relay.. if so there isnt

 

delete your address from the post, bad idea to publicize your address.
send it to him via PM.

 

FPR - Fuel Pressure Regulator. Yes! you do have a fuel pump relay. On the Firewall, you should have the Starter Relay ( the big one with the white/red wire to the solenoid; two relays with metal covers and the diode pac. the relay with the white/green wire is your fuel pump relay. You should hear it click 'on' when you turn the key to the 'on position and if you do not crank the engine it will turn off after a second or two. Now that we know that if you get fuel to the engine, it will start. Perform fuel pump test by disconnecting the white/green wire and using a jumper, connect the wire to the + terminal of the battery. Does the pump work? If it does, proceed to the fuel pressure test. Check Doug's post. Stick a long screwdriver (carefully) and open the flap in the air flow meter to prevent the pump from shutting down. Post results for further action.

 

done..right now i can not check the fuel pressure cuz i am not sure where to hook up. i wnat to do this before i go back to dougs idea

 

sorry ..everything is good ,,,,iam am at testing the fuel pressure... but dont know where to hook-up there is one spot the a vacume hose goes from one pint to another ...like a loop. its on the fuel rail and has a hex nut with a plug in that looks like elcetric but isnt. this is the only point i see that may work.

 

The usual place to attach a fuel pressure gauge on a Ser III 4.2 is the nipple for the cold start injector hose. Remove the CSI hose from the fuel supply rail, then install the fuel pressure gauge on that nipple.

Cheers
DD

 

did everythng n it. I have fuel at the rail its at 38 psi. Ive goone over all od Dougs as well and im thinking its either the start relay and or the diode. im getting a new start relay for the heck of it. still wondering whyno power at terminal 3 on diode with the new wire.

 

Private Message me your address. You deleted it before I could save it.
O.K. so you installed the terminal ends on the new wire. This wire is going from Point A to Point B. Do you have power at Point A? Do you have continuity across the new wire you made? I am not sure, but in one of your posts you said you had to replace this wire. Why? I am just trying to backtrack to see if you made a Boo Boo somewhere. I am going to print complete post in order to follow your tracks. If I have questions I will post them. Based on your reports, We now have fuel pressure and we know that the engine will run if it gets fuel, so this is where we are going to start. Print out this post completely and put it in chronological order like I am going to do. For every question you asked, Doug gave you an answer and you were going along fine until everything started to get jumbled up. That is why I told you to back up and start over. Since you did this we know that the engine will run if it gets fuel. Ignition System:good; Fuel Pump: good; Now all we have to do is to get the injectors to pulse. Follow Doug's instructions because the info I have is the same. The difference is that I will go one step at a time. Read the article below, then proceed

• Fuel injection and the Jaguar XJ6 4.2 Series 3 / AJ6 Engineering
  Fuel injection and the Jaguar XJ6 4.2 Series 3 / AJ6 Engineering

 

hi fraser