newbe help
#141
guess what
replaced ecu,resister pack and diode.
1.1st did reister pack ,,, nothing
2.then did diode. nothing
3. then did ecu and nothing
checked injectors and now I do have a blinking light when cracked but still nothing like before not even a almost start
all were warrantied.. in working order from a good supply source
1.1st did reister pack ,,, nothing
2.then did diode. nothing
3. then did ecu and nothing
checked injectors and now I do have a blinking light when cracked but still nothing like before not even a almost start
all were warrantied.. in working order from a good supply source
#142
coil neg post
is it possible for the neg post were you tighten the nuts be bad???
my son did away with that little ballast thing thing lie Jose said.. but i think he over tightened it and the nuts wont tighten like they should ..its tight but like the nut was crosstreaded and it only snug.. could that have damaged the neg post screw therefore make for a no start. just a idea cuz im out of ideas
my son did away with that little ballast thing thing lie Jose said.. but i think he over tightened it and the nuts wont tighten like they should ..its tight but like the nut was crosstreaded and it only snug.. could that have damaged the neg post screw therefore make for a no start. just a idea cuz im out of ideas
#143
is it possible for the neg post were you tighten the nuts be bad???
my son did away with that little ballast thing thing lie Jose said.. but i think he over tightened it and the nuts wont tighten like they should ..its tight but like the nut was crosstreaded and it only snug.. could that have damaged the neg post screw therefore make for a no start. just a idea cuz im out of ideas
my son did away with that little ballast thing thing lie Jose said.. but i think he over tightened it and the nuts wont tighten like they should ..its tight but like the nut was crosstreaded and it only snug.. could that have damaged the neg post screw therefore make for a no start. just a idea cuz im out of ideas
obviously not an issue of the ECU. those rarely go bad.
another dumb question, but does the engine turn when you crank the ignition switch?
A) have you double checked the Inertia Fuel Cutoff switch?
is the button on top of the IFCS springy when you press it down? (in other words, it does not click when pressed). (think of it as a "Reset" button).
This switch can disable the car totally. Check it again and again.
B) if the fuel pump was replaced, can you hear it whirring with the shifter in 1st gear and turning the ignition switch to START?
C) no gasoline leaking anywhere?
#144
maybe on to something
yes to nuts on the neg post of coil
yes it cranks
the fuel pump whirls
no gas leak
but the IFCS is not springy.. i checked it alot but only by pulling it up to show red..it was not up in the red area.. if you pull it up no spring and it just falls down when touched and no click at all
yes it cranks
the fuel pump whirls
no gas leak
but the IFCS is not springy.. i checked it alot but only by pulling it up to show red..it was not up in the red area.. if you pull it up no spring and it just falls down when touched and no click at all
#145
ifcs
how does it work.. should it be down when in safe mode and up showing red when its not in safe mode.. if i pull it up to show red the fuel doenst flow.. i dont feel a spring but if you pull it up it stays red until you touch it and it falls back down.. im thinking its working ok by this ..or im i wrong
#146
how does it work.. should it be down when in safe mode and up showing red when its not in safe mode.. if i pull it up to show red the fuel doenst flow.. i dont feel a spring but if you pull it up it stays red until you touch it and it falls back down.. im thinking its working ok by this ..or im i wrong
Red up means tripped. It should "click" when you press it down if in Red, meaning it has reset, like a reset button in a vacuum cleaner when it overheats?
don't know what to tell you, the only way would be for someone to press it down to see if there is fuel flow to the engine, OR, if you have already verified there IS fuel flow to the engine, then it must be ok, not tripped.
sometimes it's the silly things that disable a car, I'm just looking for the not-so-obvious.
is the coil post moving when you tighten the nut?
#147
#148
try to re-thread the post, shouldn't be too difficult. the only way to really test the start relay is by substitution. Leave the timing chain/belt alone for now.
#151
when you press it down, it allows the fuel pump to pump and pressurize the fuel system, it works electrically by shutting the fuel pump off, so when it tripps, there's no fuel pressure.
#152
#154
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#156
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Use a jumper wire or whatever to join them together, bypassing the switch to get it out of the picture, although........
also if the switch is faulty wouldn't it shut fuel down
Yes, and as I recall you DO have fuel pressure....so one way or another the fuel pump is working.
Cheers
DD
#157
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The diagrams from the S57 Electrical Guide (which I think you have and are on the Captain Jaguar electrical reference page) show the terminal numbers and wire colrs. That's probably as good as it gets
Cheers
DD
#159
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Cheers
DD
#160