XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III 1968-1992
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No spark 4.2

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  #21  
Old 07-17-2015, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Tim H
weird too because this engine was rebuilt 14,000km ago.


Yeah but you probably don't have an 'engine' problem. You likely have a electrics or fuel injection problem.....stuff that was not replaced as part of an engine overhaul


those wires you mention aren't the best but they aren't broken, the insulation is cracked a bit.

Is the connection good and the little pins? Any corrosion on the inside of the connector?

For the heck of it remove the connector and jump contacts with a paper clip....and try starting the engine? Any change?



would I be right in thinking that fuel pressure regulator failure would result in too much fuel, rather than too little?

A faulty regulator can go either way: too much or too little. Only a pressure test will tell.


I think I am looking at a fuelling issue, now I know it can start with the ether.

Tight! Lack of fuel, specifically.

Cheers
DD
 
  #22  
Old 07-17-2015, 06:01 PM
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Hi DD,

the temp sensor looks good inside, although the casing is cracked. Jumped the connectors and no change. I can borrow a fuel pressure gauge at the weekend and see how that goes...

temp sensor reads 1.7 ohms, and it was over 70 degrees F today.
 

Last edited by Tim H; 07-17-2015 at 06:19 PM.
  #23  
Old 07-19-2015, 06:29 PM
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Update 19.7.15

Car now starts but revs erratically followed by cutout. Even with foot on gas pedal, car can't find enough power to deal with transmission shift and dies.

Uncovered fuel filter to find rusty clamps and ancient filter so will begin digging for fuel issue there. Still have not located pressure gauge to check fuel pressure.
 
  #24  
Old 07-19-2015, 06:57 PM
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Empty the contents of the filter into a clean jar. What you see will dictate your next steps


Cheers
DD
 
  #25  
Old 07-19-2015, 08:00 PM
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The filter contents had a few tiny bits of debris but nothing serious. I was surprised.. quite a few tiny bits but nothing that looks like it was clogging the filter *unless* it's all lodged inside the filter ...
 

Last edited by Tim H; 07-19-2015 at 08:09 PM.
  #26  
Old 07-19-2015, 08:23 PM
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Doesn't sound too bad but, of course, seeing any bits at all isn't exactly good news.

Can you blow thru the filter easily? Cut it open for a good look-see.

I can't remember....was this car sitting unused for a long time? How old is the fuel? It's common for the tanks on these car to get rusty on the inside if the car is in storage

Cheers
DD
 
  #27  
Old 07-19-2015, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Doug
Doesn't sound too bad but, of course, seeing any bits at all isn't exactly good news.

Can you blow thru the filter easily? Cut it open for a good look-see.

I can't remember....was this car sitting unused for a long time? How old is the fuel? It's common for the tanks on these car to get rusty on the inside if the car is in storage

Cheers
DD
blows through easily, I'll cut it tomorrow and have a look but if I can blow through it's probably ok - smart to renew it anyway I thought.

It was sitting outdoors for a few years but he started it up in November last, so it has been laid up for a while. the tank was reconditioned at some point but still long enough ago that it could have problems again. The right tank has been disabled to only the left is in use, and the lines before the pump are unobstructed and appear clean.

The fuel could be a couple of years old, but there was very little in the tank.
 
  #28  
Old 07-20-2015, 02:21 PM
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Finally bought a fuel pressure gauge, and I have a healthy 36psi at the rear of the fuel rail.

The plot thickens..
 
  #29  
Old 07-20-2015, 05:21 PM
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Update.

Cleaned the earth wires at the water rail, one (the single small one) had broken wires so I removed the damaged part and reinstall the earth wires and bolt. Car now fires up, still sounds like a tractor (cylinder no.4 is still missing its spark plug, and its injector plug is disconnected so it doesn't spray fuel) and dies after a few seconds.

Having established I have ignition, fuel pressure and spark, what am I left with? vacuum leak? faulty pressure regulator? dirty injectors?
 
  #30  
Old 07-21-2015, 05:34 PM
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Update:

Car is now running! not sweetly, but it's going and is able to drive. One of the rear brakes is complaining severely. But I am grateful for the advice and am going to try and enjoy the car a bit before starting on the other jobs that need doing.

thanks all and happy motoring!
 
  #31  
Old 07-21-2015, 07:07 PM
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Good work !


Cheers
DD
 
  #32  
Old 07-22-2015, 09:59 AM
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Did I miss something?


Cylinder number four sans spark plug and the bore open to the air?


If so, how can it run sweetly on 5!!!


Mebbe just I didn't read the posts properly?


Carl
 
  #33  
Old 07-22-2015, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by JagCad
Did I miss something?


Cylinder number four sans spark plug and the bore open to the air?


If so, how can it run sweetly on 5!!!


Mebbe just I didn't read the posts properly?


Carl
Hi,

the thread was damaged so the plug would only screw in a few turns, so I took the lead off and disconnected the lead to the injector, while I tested all the other components and the fuel pressure, etc.

I found someone local who said he could fit an insert in the hole, so I figured there was no harm in damaging a thread that was already going to be enlarged, and just forced the plug down a few more turns until it was almost at the correct depth, then reconnected everything and started it.

I think there were a number of things preventing it from running, including a bad ground or two and some broken wires etc.

It runs now but I want to get it to have that insert done ASAP..
 
  #34  
Old 07-22-2015, 10:23 AM
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Aha, thanks for the clarification!!!!


Good work, my compliments. Persistence often wins the prize.


The fact that you got a spark plug in and it doesn't leak means there is some hope for the threads.


There are professional spark plug "thread chasers". Some thing like a tap, but not as "brutal".


Or, a home made device can work. Made from an old plug of the right type. Knock out the center electrode and the ceramic insulator. Using a sharp hack saw cut across the threads perpendicularly, down to the base. Make another similar cut 90degrees from that one. That forms an "X". Add some cutting lube and carefully run it into the hole. Or grease to catch the "scarf'.


It might be merely carbon cluttering up the threads and this well clean them up many times. At times, not!!


The fall back is the Helicoil your friend offers.


Enjoy.


Carl
 
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