I was fitting a pair of driving/fog lights today (period correct rectangular type I acquired in the 80's, stored for years and still like new). Anyhow, that's not the issue. Before wiring up and installing a relay, I turned on the main/high beam headlights and discovered the RH inner light isn't working. So, forget the driving lights, I need to get the main beam working first!

Checked bulb OK (i.e. filament intact), cleaned the earth point to bright metal, fuse OK. Assume the relay is OK since the LH main beam is working.

Not sure what to hunt for now, any ideas folks?

Cheers,

 

look at the fusebox under the bonnet, the one on the passanger side (RHD) near the rad resivor. Mine did it when I bought it, right hand high beam, and it turned out that one of the fuses was faulty. Not the fuse itself, but the metal prongs that hold it in. I ended up wiring in a inline fuse instead. I will take a photo in daylight if you want me to.

 

Thanks Richard, good tip. Maybe I was fooled by the fuse being Ok, so I'll give that a try.

Cheers,

 

Hi Tony

Have you noticed if you have lost high beam in the other high/low beam headlight on that side? The S57 says they share the same fuse and if also not working that would point back to the fuse block as Richard says. You got a multimeter or a test lamp?

 

I didn't notice that Steve, thanks. Will need to check the outer light tomorrow, I have a multi meter so it will get a bit of exercise.

Cheers,

 

Just went out and checked, made more sense to do it in the dark! The RH outer high beam is working, so maybe it's back to the drawing board...

 

Also check the earths and bullet connectors behind/under the grill. These have caused me problems too. They may look connected but need cleaning

 

I had a similar issue a few years two back. I jumped to a USA car conclusion.
Swap out the "sealed beam". Done it on domestic critters many times.


Nope, not here!!! New unit still dark. Messed with the ground aka earth and the fuse. Eureka, lights. well, I have a spare unit!!!


A few years later. Never knew what light combo would show up!!! learned three useful techniques:


1. A Lucas fuse may look good, but be busted internally. Swap in equivalent SAE fuse and the light is on again.


2. The finger roll. Merely roll the fuses in situ. Again, lights back. /


3. Squeeze the fuse block from it's holder sand turn it over. I used a stiff
little brush and a solvent of some sort. Scrubbed away the goop and
lights back on my command, no longer random.


Comment:


I have a period correct pair of Hella under the bumper "fog" lamps.
I've never gotten round to installing them and making the changes to the light switch to make them work. A bunch of reasons for the hesitancy...


Carl.

 

Probably best to start working back from the headlight with your multimeter and see where volts first appear.

 

Thanks Carl. I'll need to tweak everything and hope something triggers a result.
Funny thing is, I may never use the fog/driving lights once I get them wired, but IMO they look very cool on these cars!

Cheers,

 

Thanks for all the tips guys.

Finding no issues in the fuse box I started exploring the circuit and found a broken wire on the (positive) bullet connector right behind the inner light bowl. All looked intact until I nudged it and then it fell apart. Fixed, light works.

The sheath holding the bullet connection also holds a second positive wire with nothing connected to it, and it is live when the main beam is turned on. I'm thinking this could be ideal for tapping my relay for the driving lights into the main beam circuit...


Cheers,

 

And here was me thinking you'd have to change your tag line to read:
"A Good Day's Work and Home Before Dark."
I read that somewhere.....

I'm glad you got it fixed, Tony.
(';')

 

Thanks Elinor. LOL the tag!

I must get around to a tag, I have one or two brewing

 

Just put the connector down and back away quietly Tony, you approach again with those driving lights and there will be pain :-)

 

Good grief Steve, I'm getting more & more afraid to go near the thing! To be fair, I was just looking to tap into the main beam switching, not sharing the load with the main beam. The load will go through another relay & line fuse from a direct power source. Anyhow, I also have the option of independently wiring the driving lights and leave them out of the headlamp circuits altogether, similar to fog light wiring. Er, I might just do that...

While I'm at it, do you know of any way to get a wire through the firewall? Not at that stage yet, but a quick look reveals nothing that appears reasonably accessible (no surprise).

Cheers,

 

If you want to stay legal you have to work with the headlight cct. VicRoads want them only to operate with high beam, so your plan A was the way to go.

Havent looked at wiring access. I cant imagine the basic pathway will be too hard to find but , if my limited digging around the dashboard is any guide there will be layers water,heat,sound insulation and a medium sized spaghetti factory to find the path of least resistance through. Another possibility maybe to repurpose unused wiring , if there is something in the harness that is not installed on your car you maybe able to pick that up in the cabin.

Of course there is always the drill and rubber grommet approach but that is perhaps more appropriate to my Morris than your rather nice S3

 

I am just guessing, but is there a chance the wiring is already there? The light switch in the car has all the positions on it with the push in pull out function. If the switch plugs in with all pins used, does that mean the wires go all the way?? When I was fluffing around trying to get my headlights working properly, and my horn, I am sure I saw some random wiring terminating in blank connector thingies. Seemed to be in the rough area for fog lights. Mine is a English assembled for the english market, imported into New Zealand in the early 90's. I don't know how it relates to other markets in regards to the wiring. I know there are two different types of light switch though.

 

The only firewall pass-through area I've found is where the hood release cable comes thru.

But, yes, fog light wiring is already there. I've always found the bundle taped up near the RH side of the radiator. Orange/yellow wires as I recall. Maybe red/yellow? You could hook lights directly to these wires.... or use one of them as a trigger wire for a relay.

If the headlight switch isn't fog lamp 'enabled' it's an easy mod. Just remove the little cir-clip underneath the knob to enable the push-and-turn fog lamp capability. Or, if you want a different switch for driving lamps, just clip the wires from the headlight switch and wire up whatever switch and location suits your fancy

Cheers
DD

 

Tony:


1. Yippee. conquered, at least for now. Those Lucas bullet connectors are puny. I don't like them, of any specie, anyway. I've threatened a redo, using all weather connectors as in trailer lights. I have asset on my Efans. Sturdy....


2. The under bumper lights do look good. That is why I am tempted. Way back when, I devised a pair for my 88 Tbird. Slick.


3. Our CVC limits how they are used. Must be n connection with main lamps, not stand alone???


4. My car does have some raggedy a... wires up front intended for the driving lights.


5. The switch in my car supposedly can be released to operate that circuit. But, not in CVC compliance. Another switch was used for cars sold in other markets that would do that.


6. There is a place on the bulkhead that is easily drilled. Did that!!!! On my LHD car, it is alongside the portals for the cable to the throttle and to the cruise control bellows. And, right under the battery is a good sized opening with a big grommet.


I don't know as to RHD cars. Similar but on the opposite side????




Carl

 

Thanks guys, for all your very helpful comments:

Steve,
I prefer to stay legal, but also with what works safest for the car. I may be wrong about this, but I think front fogs (as opposed to driving lights) may be legal if wired outside the headlight circuit (see my response to Richard below). It would make sense since main beams would counter the effect of fog beams in fog conditions.

Richard,
I had been thinking along similar lines since the switch is equipped with aux terminals for fog lights. Rear fogs are of course already installed, but it still leaves the top position on the switch free for front ones. The master light switch on Aussie spec. models is the same as UK, so I'll start looking for a dormant circuit to the front. If this switch setting is used, apparently it turns on both front and rear fogs and turns OFF the headlights simultaneously. As an alternative, I'm tempted to look at disconnecting the rear fogs at the switch and use that setting for the front, making the front ones totally independent (I'd never use/need rear fogs anyway). I have also noticed a wire terminated with an unconnected bullet near each of the inner headlight bowls. Might get lucky!

Doug,
As above, hopefully that pre-existing wiring is there for front fogs! I'll look at the hood release cable area for access, I have a feeling the brake servo on RHD may make access a bit fiddly on the engine side.


Carl,
The battery is on the left (passenger) side on RHD, so hopefully that nice big grommet will be there, everything should be mirrored to LHD.


Cheers,