Over axle exhaust pipes
#1
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Does anyone know of a supplier for the over axle pipes on a Series 3 Jaguar? I SPOKE TO Welsh Enterprises and they told me that no one has these pipes in Mild Steel.
All they have is a complete exhaust system in Stainless Steel.
I am not interested in that because I am looking for the pipes to install on my Chevy conversion.
The muffler shops in my area are shying away from making them because there are too many short bends, therefore time consuming.
All they have is a complete exhaust system in Stainless Steel.
I am not interested in that because I am looking for the pipes to install on my Chevy conversion.
The muffler shops in my area are shying away from making them because there are too many short bends, therefore time consuming.
#2
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Might check with Jim Johnson of Sun Coast over in your neck of the woods.
Or David Boger at everydayxj up the coast a lot... NOs or good used?
Yeah, a "production" muffler shop would not be interested. time and come back risk. related, of course...
But, if you remove a pair, they might be more willing to duplicate them away from the car and not be involved in the removal or replacement.
Carl
Or David Boger at everydayxj up the coast a lot... NOs or good used?
Yeah, a "production" muffler shop would not be interested. time and come back risk. related, of course...
But, if you remove a pair, they might be more willing to duplicate them away from the car and not be involved in the removal or replacement.
Carl
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#5
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I put them under the IRS on the '72 LT1/700R... had no clearance problems at all.
Am going to do the same on my '71 XJ, 383/200R as soon as I get it back together after the paint job. This time I will use round stainless mufflers in the resonator holes and clamps instead of flanges. The oval mufflers had been purchased before the thought of going under the IRS... they worked well but showed the bottom portion. The S curved tips were used and last section of pipe was Jaguar sized so the stock bolts on the tips could be used.
It is idiotic to even think about good sized pipes passing through the IRS.... there is no extra room...
Am going to do the same on my '71 XJ, 383/200R as soon as I get it back together after the paint job. This time I will use round stainless mufflers in the resonator holes and clamps instead of flanges. The oval mufflers had been purchased before the thought of going under the IRS... they worked well but showed the bottom portion. The S curved tips were used and last section of pipe was Jaguar sized so the stock bolts on the tips could be used.
It is idiotic to even think about good sized pipes passing through the IRS.... there is no extra room...
Last edited by Roger Mabry; 09-23-2016 at 11:13 AM.
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Doug (09-23-2016)
#6
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If you swap over to outboard brakes the calipers/rotors will be moved out of the way and then there is plenty of room only have to get past the half shafts.
That was one of the things that caught my attention when I first investigated the feasibility of this swap., (along with easier caliper access and less brake heat at the diff seals) I have been acquiring parts ,..got most of them 2001 XJ8 half shafts / uprights / rotors / calipers/ e- brake ...now to find the time...
That was one of the things that caught my attention when I first investigated the feasibility of this swap., (along with easier caliper access and less brake heat at the diff seals) I have been acquiring parts ,..got most of them 2001 XJ8 half shafts / uprights / rotors / calipers/ e- brake ...now to find the time...
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#7
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My car sits low as it is. Less than 7 inches from floor pan to floor. In the picture showing the rear you can see the radius arm. In the first picture you can clearly see the muffler hanging low.
I emailed David to see if he has any. Coventry West is also looking to see if they have any used ones.
I have to check my ride height to see if I need to raise the car via new shocks and springs.
What should the ride height be?
I emailed David to see if he has any. Coventry West is also looking to see if they have any used ones.
I have to check my ride height to see if I need to raise the car via new shocks and springs.
What should the ride height be?
Last edited by sanchez; 09-23-2016 at 11:58 AM.
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#8
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I have read in here that there "should" be 24 inches from the floor to the center of the outer headlight on a Series 3 and the car should sit level.
I have 21-1/2 inches from the floor to the center of the outer headlight, 6 inches between the floor pan and the floor.
My car sits *Looooow* and I Like it that way! It looks sort of menacing and ready to pounce.
EDIT: And it corners like it's on rails; I think that's because the center of mass is so low.
(';')
I have 21-1/2 inches from the floor to the center of the outer headlight, 6 inches between the floor pan and the floor.
My car sits *Looooow* and I Like it that way! It looks sort of menacing and ready to pounce.
EDIT: And it corners like it's on rails; I think that's because the center of mass is so low.
(';')
Last edited by LnrB; 09-24-2016 at 10:07 AM.
#9
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Sanchez:
The tails of these cars can scrape the ground. There are a pair of vents at the rear valence. Mine were squashed. A bit of prying with a big old repurposed screw driver opened them to what they should be with relative ease.
And, one of my shiny "S" tips was askew!!! Another big old repurposed screw driver pulled it into symetry with it's mate.
Comments to denote how low clearances on these cars influences
change.
As I recall, the plate on the bottom of the cage in it's center is not the low point of the rear IRS!!! Ugh, there is another reference!!
In fact, it might be the point where road clearance is greatest.
As I recall, the lowest point is the coil overs out near the wheels.
Measurements: On a lift, a straight edge and a tape.
At home: Can't just crawl under with a tape to measure the clearance at the bottom plate! Might just raise the rear with a jack and jack stands or ramps? The car not being at ride height at both ends would skew the numbers, enough to matter, I dunno.
Raise the front as well, in an equal amount? Much better.
Make a sketch in profile. Pencil in measurements.
Sit at desk with those numbers and the diameters of possible pipes.
Lay them on the sketch and see the relation.
Example:
Center of plate to ground: 9".
Proposed pipe diameter: 2 1/2"
Pipe to plate clearance: 1".
Result: 5 1/2"
Might even set up a cell function in Excel or similar that would allow
insertion of values and calculate a result! Sum (a1-b1-c1), or sorta???
I've lessened my concern with the "smallish" diameter of the pipes going through the cage. All of the 4.2 DOHC exhaust split into two worked OK. A 5.7 with a true dual exhaust is significantly less through each. Simple math!
Mine works just. Are there others similarly configured, I suspect so.
And, as I recall, Elinor's is an Muffler man's "night mare". Akin to a plumber's !! And, hers seems to run more than adequately.
Over thinking in progress, could be.
Carl
Cnter
The tails of these cars can scrape the ground. There are a pair of vents at the rear valence. Mine were squashed. A bit of prying with a big old repurposed screw driver opened them to what they should be with relative ease.
And, one of my shiny "S" tips was askew!!! Another big old repurposed screw driver pulled it into symetry with it's mate.
Comments to denote how low clearances on these cars influences
change.
As I recall, the plate on the bottom of the cage in it's center is not the low point of the rear IRS!!! Ugh, there is another reference!!
In fact, it might be the point where road clearance is greatest.
As I recall, the lowest point is the coil overs out near the wheels.
Measurements: On a lift, a straight edge and a tape.
At home: Can't just crawl under with a tape to measure the clearance at the bottom plate! Might just raise the rear with a jack and jack stands or ramps? The car not being at ride height at both ends would skew the numbers, enough to matter, I dunno.
Raise the front as well, in an equal amount? Much better.
Make a sketch in profile. Pencil in measurements.
Sit at desk with those numbers and the diameters of possible pipes.
Lay them on the sketch and see the relation.
Example:
Center of plate to ground: 9".
Proposed pipe diameter: 2 1/2"
Pipe to plate clearance: 1".
Result: 5 1/2"
Might even set up a cell function in Excel or similar that would allow
insertion of values and calculate a result! Sum (a1-b1-c1), or sorta???
I've lessened my concern with the "smallish" diameter of the pipes going through the cage. All of the 4.2 DOHC exhaust split into two worked OK. A 5.7 with a true dual exhaust is significantly less through each. Simple math!
Mine works just. Are there others similarly configured, I suspect so.
And, as I recall, Elinor's is an Muffler man's "night mare". Akin to a plumber's !! And, hers seems to run more than adequately.
Over thinking in progress, could be.
Carl
Cnter
#10
#12
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Thanks Alyn. I ordered the pair. Arrival date October 12th. Until then I wait.
I finally received my tach interface yesterday from Suncoast. Already installed inside the car. Ran Distributor wire through the rubber grommet for the hood latch cables. There were three holes in the grommet. Two were used for the hood latch cables so I fished the wires through the 3rd hole. Works perfect. Speedo within 2 mph of real speed and tach now reading correctly.
Now the only thing I have to do is the exhaust system.
O2 sensor bungs will be welded to new down pipes for my TBI change over.
I am very happy with the way things are going.
After all of the mechanical work is done, I will be tackling some minor body work for a full repaint. Dings and scratches.
Just a couple spots will need some major surgery, which will require front and rear glass removal. I am in no rush to do it but eventually it will be done.
@ Doug: Did you install the Walker mufflers you acquired from Summit? How do they sound?
I finally received my tach interface yesterday from Suncoast. Already installed inside the car. Ran Distributor wire through the rubber grommet for the hood latch cables. There were three holes in the grommet. Two were used for the hood latch cables so I fished the wires through the 3rd hole. Works perfect. Speedo within 2 mph of real speed and tach now reading correctly.
Now the only thing I have to do is the exhaust system.
O2 sensor bungs will be welded to new down pipes for my TBI change over.
I am very happy with the way things are going.
After all of the mechanical work is done, I will be tackling some minor body work for a full repaint. Dings and scratches.
Just a couple spots will need some major surgery, which will require front and rear glass removal. I am in no rush to do it but eventually it will be done.
@ Doug: Did you install the Walker mufflers you acquired from Summit? How do they sound?
#13
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#14
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Sanchez:
Good work, great progress. Kudos !!!
My Johnscars kit included bungs for the O2 sensors.
Looked like something a good hardware store might stock.
I used my largest drill on my Sun Coast sourced down pipes.
I could have located them a bit better, but, I found a solution.
I used a "rat tail" file to get the opening large enough for the
sensors. I used my torch to weld them in place. As usual, my welding
not pretty, but sound. I understand torch tip color and penetration.
Carl
Good work, great progress. Kudos !!!
My Johnscars kit included bungs for the O2 sensors.
Looked like something a good hardware store might stock.
I used my largest drill on my Sun Coast sourced down pipes.
I could have located them a bit better, but, I found a solution.
I used a "rat tail" file to get the opening large enough for the
sensors. I used my torch to weld them in place. As usual, my welding
not pretty, but sound. I understand torch tip color and penetration.
Carl
#15
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davidboger (09-28-2016)
#16
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#17
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#18
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Under the axle can be enhanced by using oval pipe for a flatter more custom appearance. It's a good option if one wants to avoid the appearance of taking the easy way out and running round pipes direct. For a performance build under the axle is just about the only choice because the over the axle pipes are a flute like 1 7/8 diameter.
3 1/2 Inch Oval Stainless Tubing 40 Inches long - Oval Tubing - Straight Lengths - 3½" Oval Tubing 40" Long, Stainless Steel - SpinTech Performance Mufflers
3 1/2 Inch Oval Stainless Tubing 40 Inches long - Oval Tubing - Straight Lengths - 3½" Oval Tubing 40" Long, Stainless Steel - SpinTech Performance Mufflers
Last edited by icsamerica; 09-27-2016 at 08:19 AM.
#19
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I guess the short wheelbase S1 cars do have more clearance - less distance in the rear. It is not even close with the '72 car... never hit at anytime or place.
All the Corvettes have this type of exhaust system so it is not unusual at all. The LT1/700R in the '72 Jag sounded like a later model Corvette.
Putting on the S curved S3 tips does mean necking down/changing the last pipe on the rear mufflers to fit properly and attach with the Jaguar single bolt... a big loss in efficiency but a LARGE gain in looks.
All the Corvettes have this type of exhaust system so it is not unusual at all. The LT1/700R in the '72 Jag sounded like a later model Corvette.
Putting on the S curved S3 tips does mean necking down/changing the last pipe on the rear mufflers to fit properly and attach with the Jaguar single bolt... a big loss in efficiency but a LARGE gain in looks.
#20
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Ebay Motors Jaguar parts over the axle pipes
Starla Rear Left Right Exhaust Overaxle Pipe JR2606 JR2616 1985 87 Jag UAR XJ6 | eBay
Starla Rear Left Right Exhaust Overaxle Pipe JR2606 JR2616 1985 87 Jag UAR XJ6 | eBay
Sorry I didn't realise how much you were going to pay. I bought these thinking they were stainless steel and they are sitting in my shed. Doh!
Apologies again.