Pabst Blue Ribbon meets Tea and Crumpets
#182
#183
Used three bolt flanges and copper gaskets on my '77 - 3 each side. They leak a little, but with the Super 44's you can't tell.
Putting "V" band clamps on the '60 - 4 per side and one in the center of the "H" pipe. (Yonaka, $25 each - out of Canada - they up graded the "T" bolts with no price increase. ) '60 is still under construction.
Putting "V" band clamps on the '60 - 4 per side and one in the center of the "H" pipe. (Yonaka, $25 each - out of Canada - they up graded the "T" bolts with no price increase. ) '60 is still under construction.
#185
i havent checked on v band flanges but im guessing they would be more than the 2.29 i paid for each 2 bolt flange, im not worried about the flanges leaking im going to sand them perfectly flat and use copper spray to make sure of a good seal. but from the replies having multiple flanges should be a problem then. I thought about making the whole thing one unit but that would be a headache to get out if i needed too.
and for the brakes im not sure. they look good but i wont know how they feel for a bit. need to get a few other things tidied up before i put fluid in them and test them out
and for the brakes im not sure. they look good but i wont know how they feel for a bit. need to get a few other things tidied up before i put fluid in them and test them out
#186
three bolt flange & V band
Sunchip,
Flange system is for '77XJ12L. 2 1/2" goes under differential.
"V Band" system is on a 1960 Jaguar MK2.
Compared to $2.19, $25 per clamp may seem expensive. The Yonaka's have a interlocking flange. A certain racing company's least expensive offer starts at $30 without and interlocking flange, then you move to $80 or so for the real pretty ones.
Flange system is for '77XJ12L. 2 1/2" goes under differential.
"V Band" system is on a 1960 Jaguar MK2.
Compared to $2.19, $25 per clamp may seem expensive. The Yonaka's have a interlocking flange. A certain racing company's least expensive offer starts at $30 without and interlocking flange, then you move to $80 or so for the real pretty ones.
#187
so the old saying "do it properly and you wont have to do it again" is really coming to light this year. So many things i did last year are needing to be replaced are changed. The exhaust was held together, with lets be honest, hopes and dreams. No matter thats being sorted with a properly flanged system. The suspension modifications are being corrected and improved upon, better end links and shock mounts. The cheap shifter is being replaced with a lokar unit. The cheap steering wheel is being replaced with a momo unit.
Once i get the exhaust and shifter fitted then there isnt much stoping me from getting this thing on the road.
that being said, does anyone have a write up how to disassemble and reassemble the doors? Im going to use dorman window switches and i have my painless wiring kit but the actual R&R of the door would be useful to read over before i get into it
Once i get the exhaust and shifter fitted then there isnt much stoping me from getting this thing on the road.
that being said, does anyone have a write up how to disassemble and reassemble the doors? Im going to use dorman window switches and i have my painless wiring kit but the actual R&R of the door would be useful to read over before i get into it
#190
#191
Hello again everyone on the forums!
After a looooooooong hiatus I will hopefully be diving back into this project with some new goals for the coming years.
Main goal is converting the car to all electric. I'm still researching how to go about this and will update here from time to time.
Hope all is well with everyone here and their cats!
After a looooooooong hiatus I will hopefully be diving back into this project with some new goals for the coming years.
Main goal is converting the car to all electric. I'm still researching how to go about this and will update here from time to time.
Hope all is well with everyone here and their cats!
#193
#194
#195
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