pics of my XJ6 project "unghetto"
#61
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Tehama County, California, USA
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#63
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It might be a good idea for you to find a copy of a conversion manual, like for example the one husband picked up published by JTR (Jaguars That Run) written by Mike Knell. It contains several recommendations for conversion drive shafts depending on your choice of transmission. No matter the Chevy transmission, however, the drive shaft yoke is changed to one compatible with that transmission and the length of the drive shaft is modified depending on the wheelbase of the car.
I can say this rear trans mount is the most clumsy, awkward and hard to work around that I've ever encountered but it didn't come from any current conversion company. I'm sure there are better options available today.
The PO did say they had dual exhaust at that time of conversion (nothing about larger diameter) but California SMOG laws are quite stupid in that regard, and require everything the ENGINE had originally for that year (or Didn't have) be kept exactly the way it was originally, NO MATTER how emissions might be improved by any modifications.
The seller spent a couple thousand $$$ putting all that engine stuff back into the ORIGINAL condition, including reverting to single exhaust and all the smog garbage as that's how the engine came out of the factory.
Before doing that though, in an effort to save that money (coming out of his pocket not ours) he actually suggested we find a 'friendly' smog tech and slip him a hundred $ every couple years to sign it off like it was (so we knew how he was getting by with it). Naa, couldn't do that. I do take certain "laws" as Suggestions, but not when they might get someone else in trouble down the line.
So it has both banks routed to a Single exhaust pipe just like the 350 was originally designed, with dual tail pipes.
I hope this answers at least part of your question.
(';')
#64
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Walnut Creek, California
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The CA Smog law has some logical background. A basic tenet is that the donor package be of the same age as the recipient or newer. And, if the recipient car is FI, the donor package must be FI. Thusly, tested and accepted components should be the result.
Next is That all emession stuff must be there and functional. And, it seeks a general rule, rather than a world of specifics. But, the regulations are ancient and have not been updated.
And, worse, it is stuck at a 76 cutoff, rather than a rolling age cutoff as many other states have. It seems they avoid the obvious that as the older cars fall off the road the need to test diminishes.
Yeah, I had an issue over the exhaust in my 83/94 conversion. The referee decided it best resembled a Camaro. he had apparently tested and passed conversions using that package. No true dual there. Well, my factory manual for the donor 94 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham clearly showed a true dual system. So, he accepted it on that authority. For one reason or another, the "H" pipe slipped by.
The transmission mount from the Johns Car kit is a simple, but effective one. A drilled plate to bolt to the Jaguar chassis/body. And a simple hard rubber block to go to the tailshaft, much ala GM. No bushings and springs!!
And the drive shaft is one piece, GM yoke and slip joint to the front and jag style flange to the rear. No center joint. Works just fine.
AS the Cadillac AC is managed via the PCM and it includes front wheel speed, at first,
the ref wanted the Cad controls to be integrated. Fortunately, a supervisor clarified that as unneeded as it had nothing to do with admissions.
Not a bad guy. Admired the install, and pointed it out to his student intern!!
A bit abashed that his machine would not read my PCM, wrong adapter. But, he accepted the data stream readings of my scanner.
Thusly, a lot depends on the special referee!!!
The testing is under the supervision of the CA bureaus of auto repair. Main function is keeping tabs on repair shop honesty.
Carl
Next is That all emession stuff must be there and functional. And, it seeks a general rule, rather than a world of specifics. But, the regulations are ancient and have not been updated.
And, worse, it is stuck at a 76 cutoff, rather than a rolling age cutoff as many other states have. It seems they avoid the obvious that as the older cars fall off the road the need to test diminishes.
Yeah, I had an issue over the exhaust in my 83/94 conversion. The referee decided it best resembled a Camaro. he had apparently tested and passed conversions using that package. No true dual there. Well, my factory manual for the donor 94 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham clearly showed a true dual system. So, he accepted it on that authority. For one reason or another, the "H" pipe slipped by.
The transmission mount from the Johns Car kit is a simple, but effective one. A drilled plate to bolt to the Jaguar chassis/body. And a simple hard rubber block to go to the tailshaft, much ala GM. No bushings and springs!!
And the drive shaft is one piece, GM yoke and slip joint to the front and jag style flange to the rear. No center joint. Works just fine.
AS the Cadillac AC is managed via the PCM and it includes front wheel speed, at first,
the ref wanted the Cad controls to be integrated. Fortunately, a supervisor clarified that as unneeded as it had nothing to do with admissions.
Not a bad guy. Admired the install, and pointed it out to his student intern!!
A bit abashed that his machine would not read my PCM, wrong adapter. But, he accepted the data stream readings of my scanner.
Thusly, a lot depends on the special referee!!!
The testing is under the supervision of the CA bureaus of auto repair. Main function is keeping tabs on repair shop honesty.
Carl
#65
Not a lot of progress....waiting on other sandblasted parts. RF24 dual speed fan with Volvo control relay getting mocked up....working to get the serpentine system on-nows a good time to replace the front lighting....car had been apart and repainted once before so all the wiring was hacked then spliced back together, then butt-spliced with extensions...etc. What a mess.
#66
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Fortunately, my car was neatly done; everything that was actually connected in the first place (everything but the radio) still works as originally intended.
(';')
#67
So aside from cleaning up the engine bay, I'm getting the serpentine parts in place, and taking the stock GM aluminum intake off-PO used a 1" adapter spacer to go from quadrajet to EDELBROCK and this is killing my hood clearance for a stock type air cleaner assembly. So, I murdered out a Performer intake and I'll be swapping the GM intake for an Edelbrock so the carb will bolt on without a spacer which should give me the clearance I need. You may notice the adapter brackets I designed for this serpentine setup to be able to bolt on a GM CS144 style 140A alternator.
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LnrB (10-23-2014)
#70
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My car has a somewhat similar cross bar. Not so much as a stiffener, but an imaginative place to hang the PCM!! Just could not hide that neat finned aluminum case!!!
I have a spare in black powder coat. Each looks slick.
Looking for the speedo output from the PCM to "correct" the speedo reading. At present, it uses a modulated VSS and isn't quite right. I have the correct module to do it with, just need to find the right connector and pin on the PCM,
staring at the factory tome fpor the donor car, 94 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham!!!
Carl
I have a spare in black powder coat. Each looks slick.
Looking for the speedo output from the PCM to "correct" the speedo reading. At present, it uses a modulated VSS and isn't quite right. I have the correct module to do it with, just need to find the right connector and pin on the PCM,
staring at the factory tome fpor the donor car, 94 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham!!!
Carl
#71
Did a little detailing under hood tonight. I added my cooling fan temp switches/t-stat housing on the Performer blacked out intake. Still working on an air cleaner solution. I could notch out the under hood brace to clear the Cadillac TBI350 air cleaner I thought about using, but I would rather not cut into it. I am trying a different, lower base GM air cleaner next to see how well it fits. Hoping to get the radiator fan assembly mocked up next.
#72
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#73
Unfortunately, the carb is not as new as the PO lead my dad to believe-I went to swap the stock hose barb fuel inlet fitting for an inverted flare seat so I could make my own steel fuel line and found crud inside the opening-I pulled the top plate and itbaint any better. So, an overhaul kit and an assortment of jets/metering rods are on the way.
I think I'll have to make my own air cleaner to keep it looking stock but functional. The Caddy air cleaner base is a drop style but the height is still a problem so...., I think I'll cut the base in half, remove an inch then tig weld it back together. As long as it clears (I really don't wanna cut the under hood bracing at all) with the hood shut, I think leaving the tig welds exposed but primed and painted will look killer.
I think I'll have to make my own air cleaner to keep it looking stock but functional. The Caddy air cleaner base is a drop style but the height is still a problem so...., I think I'll cut the base in half, remove an inch then tig weld it back together. As long as it clears (I really don't wanna cut the under hood bracing at all) with the hood shut, I think leaving the tig welds exposed but primed and painted will look killer.
#74
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#75
Unfortunately, the carb is not as new as the PO lead my dad to believe-I went to swap the stock hose barb fuel inlet fitting for an inverted flare seat so I could make my own steel fuel line and found crud inside the opening-I pulled the top plate and itbaint any better. So, an overhaul kit and an assortment of jets/metering rods are on the way.
I think I'll have to make my own air cleaner to keep it looking stock but functional. The Caddy air cleaner base is a drop style but the height is still a problem so...., I think I'll cut the base in half, remove an inch then tig weld it back together. As long as it clears (I really don't wanna cut the under hood bracing at all) with the hood shut, I think leaving the tig welds exposed but primed and painted will look killer.
I think I'll have to make my own air cleaner to keep it looking stock but functional. The Caddy air cleaner base is a drop style but the height is still a problem so...., I think I'll cut the base in half, remove an inch then tig weld it back together. As long as it clears (I really don't wanna cut the under hood bracing at all) with the hood shut, I think leaving the tig welds exposed but primed and painted will look killer.
#76
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LnrB: Vorsicht, PO can also stand for "present owner"!!
Gmachinz:
This might be an exception. except for the crud, it looks quite fresh. My suspicions would go to the fuel fiolter (s) or a steel line along the way, or even the fuel pump, if it is a mechanical type.
But, yeah, that crud is likely in other carb passages as well, messing up things.
Nice work.
Carl
Gmachinz:
This might be an exception. except for the crud, it looks quite fresh. My suspicions would go to the fuel fiolter (s) or a steel line along the way, or even the fuel pump, if it is a mechanical type.
But, yeah, that crud is likely in other carb passages as well, messing up things.
Nice work.
Carl
#77
I thought about using an 83-85 style Z28 air cleaner base and a TBI 87-89 5.0 Firebird top lid since that would give me a low profile look BUT-the caddy style base has a provision for a molded plastic duct and inlet scoop with "5.7 liter" molded into it so it'll look cool as hell if I can just lower the base height. Funny to think that the most complex part for this V8 conversion is the air cleaner....lol but I want a stock appearing look so whatever it takes, ya know?
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LnrB (10-29-2014)
#80