pre filter options? and rusty rear valence screws
#1
pre filter options? and rusty rear valence screws
HI All,
Can anyone who's done the prefilter boot mod advise me if this would work?
https://www.advancedfluidsolutions.c...ils-6034-p.asp
It's hard to get a Wix 33299 or similar here. I can get a baldwin version online, but will cost me £27 a go everytime I need a pair, which may be frequent as I suspect I have rusty tanks and I can't get the rusty valance screws to budge so I can't get to them to drain them and replace the tank filters.
It would also be useful to have transparent prefilters so I can see when they are blocked.
Also if anyone can advise me how they have got to the tanks when the valance screws are rusted solid? as I need to drain them and flush them and probably put new tank filters in.
Thanks alot everyone, Alasdair.
(Background is I have a non starting xj6 1985 4.2, cut out whilst running and then turned over won't catch. I have replaced fuel pump and filter before and it cured it temporarily, started and ran ok on the driveway several times and ran for a bit then after a couple of weeks cut out again. I suspect either poor fuel or rust in the tanks, certainly seems to be a fuel supply issue.
So I am planning to drain the tanks and also fit new tank filters and some prefilters, but currently can't get the rear valences off as all the screws are rusted on.)
Can anyone who's done the prefilter boot mod advise me if this would work?
https://www.advancedfluidsolutions.c...ils-6034-p.asp
It's hard to get a Wix 33299 or similar here. I can get a baldwin version online, but will cost me £27 a go everytime I need a pair, which may be frequent as I suspect I have rusty tanks and I can't get the rusty valance screws to budge so I can't get to them to drain them and replace the tank filters.
It would also be useful to have transparent prefilters so I can see when they are blocked.
Also if anyone can advise me how they have got to the tanks when the valance screws are rusted solid? as I need to drain them and flush them and probably put new tank filters in.
Thanks alot everyone, Alasdair.
(Background is I have a non starting xj6 1985 4.2, cut out whilst running and then turned over won't catch. I have replaced fuel pump and filter before and it cured it temporarily, started and ran ok on the driveway several times and ran for a bit then after a couple of weeks cut out again. I suspect either poor fuel or rust in the tanks, certainly seems to be a fuel supply issue.
So I am planning to drain the tanks and also fit new tank filters and some prefilters, but currently can't get the rear valences off as all the screws are rusted on.)
#2
I had to remove rusty valence screws about a month ago. I suppose the ease of this depends on how rusty they are. In my case, I tried soaking with PB Blaster penetrant and a manual impact driver like this which didn't work. But then I just used a proper Vise grip pliers set to twist them back and forth ever so slightly until I worked them loose enough and got them out. All came out this way.
I don't think the brand of fuel filter is important for what you are doing .There's a few threads on doing this on this forum where different pre-filters are used. Sorry I don't know where they are, i just remember reading them,
I don't think the brand of fuel filter is important for what you are doing .There's a few threads on doing this on this forum where different pre-filters are used. Sorry I don't know where they are, i just remember reading them,
#3
for the tank quarter panels I use Button Cap Hex bolts and lock washers in stainless steel. I took one of the old posi-drive screws to ACE Hardware to match the thread and length and no more problem with removal. Apply anti-seize to bolt threads when installing the new bolts.
I have never installed pre-filters in my 1984 XJ-6 so I don't know about those.
I have never installed pre-filters in my 1984 XJ-6 so I don't know about those.
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Mkii250 (06-24-2021)
#5
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Delaneys Creek,Qld. Australia
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Yes, filters between the tanks and pumps works. Mine have been in since about 2014 and only changed them for the first time this year.
Click in the link below to see more pictures.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...verdue-246036/
Click in the link below to see more pictures.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...verdue-246036/
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Jag7651 (06-25-2021)
#6
Don't forget the small bolts hidden underneath the 1/4 bumpers, and also there are three hex-screws at the back of the wheel arch that also secure the 1/4 panels. These are normally covered in underseal, so you have to look for them. Getting these things off can be a real PITA ! There's a rubber seal too in there too
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o1xjr (06-25-2021)
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#8
#9
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Delaneys Creek,Qld. Australia
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I have the camera ready for everything in the shed, the pictures always come in handy for reassembly or to help out on the few forums I am on for bikes or here.
#10
As customer XJ vehicles' fuel tanks age and rust mixes with the fuel, there are two things I do to protect their cars:
1. Remove each tank's bottom drain bung and clean the nylon pre-filter screen already fitted by Jaguar from the factory. I often find that these are damaged or missing completely. It is also a chance to remove any large pieces of rust scale from this hole by using a combination of a small rake I made and compressed air..
2. I fit an additional pre-filter inline between each tank and the change-over valve in the 1/2" (12mm) feed lines. I use these cheap billet types, because they can be easily disassembled and cleaned-out at major service intervals and then reassembled and used again.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/32450494...53.m1438.l2649
1. Remove each tank's bottom drain bung and clean the nylon pre-filter screen already fitted by Jaguar from the factory. I often find that these are damaged or missing completely. It is also a chance to remove any large pieces of rust scale from this hole by using a combination of a small rake I made and compressed air..
2. I fit an additional pre-filter inline between each tank and the change-over valve in the 1/2" (12mm) feed lines. I use these cheap billet types, because they can be easily disassembled and cleaned-out at major service intervals and then reassembled and used again.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/32450494...53.m1438.l2649
#11
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