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Hello, I recently bought a XJ6 Series 3 from 1982, RHD.
I found out some problems on the car and tried to list them up.
Especially on 1. 2. and 3. 7. I could need your help...
1. The rear light (including brake and fog guard lights) doesn't work. Regardless in which position the lighting switch is, the top two bulbs on both sides won't turn on. I checked the bulbs on both sides, they seemed to be ok. I brushed up all fuse box contacts and changed the #11 fuse, but didn't help.
2. The main beam headlamps (inner round lamps on the front) on both sides don't work. I pulled the turn-signal lever towards me with lighting switch on main beam but nothing changed. The outer round lamps work.
For 1. and 2., the turning lights on the front and rear, reverse lights are working. When I turn the lighting switch, on every position except "O" the bulb failure indicator keeps illuminating.
3. Somehow the steering wheel is mounted upside down. The horn doesn't work when it's pushed. As soon as I opened the underscuttle casing, I found a purple/black wire hanging in the air, so I think this must be somehow connected to the steering wheel. There are some wires I don't know for what they are. See the picture below.
4. The boot lid lock is broken and gas caps don't open. The key is missing. For this problem I already removed the broken boot lock and bought "new" boot lid lock, gas caps and door locks +key from EverydayXJ. I'm waiting for their arrival and planning to refit them in the next days.
5. The handbrake doesn't work? Since the car was delivered to me, the guy who drove the car into my parking space didn't notice that the handbrake was pulled the entire time. Starting and parking wasn't also a problem. Is it common that the handbrake is weak after all the time or doesn't affect driving?
6. The cylinder head of the XK6 is leaking oil. I'm planning on renew the gaskets.
1) in the boot, behind the rear seat wall, there is a removable panel , covered in the same carpet fabric as the rest of the boot, you can see two black plastic screws, one on left, one on center right. Use a coin to remove those two screws pressing them in as you turn them counter clockwise.
remove the panel.
at the bottom right of the wall you can see two white fuse holders with red wires. Check those fuses. They are for the rear brake lights.
2) in the engine compartment by the brown coolant filler tank, there is a 5-fuse fusebox.
Roll the fuses in place or remove them and reinsert them. The headlights will work again, unless of course, the fuses are blown.
There is one fuse for each headlamp.
( The 5th fuse is for the auxiliary radiator cooling fan located under the front bumper).
The steering wheel:
park the car on a level surface with front tires in the straight ahead position. You might need to drive the car in a straight line to memorize the center position. Use a reference or horizon line to memorize where it should be from where it is while driving.
remove two phillips screws on the back of the steering wheel spokes.
pull the horn cover off at the front.
there should be a cream colored hex shaped contact screwed to the steel shaft. This is the Horn Push Contact.
remove this piece counterclockwise very carefully, they are plastic and break easily.
Use a socket and extension of the proper size to unscrew it. You should not need a wrench, this contact piece is hand tightened only.
Once you remove that contact piece, find a socket and extension to fit the nut holding the steering wheel to the splined shaft.
Loosen it counter clockwise but do not remove the nut and the large washer yet. Loosen the nut to near the edge of the shaft.
Now you can gently hit with both your hands the steering wheel spokes from behind, as close to the center hub as possible until the steering wheel "gives" or "releases" from the shaft. The nut will hold it from hitting your face if it comes off at speed.
now you can remove the nut and washer and pull the steering wheel off the splined shaft to refit it correctly using the reference or "horizon" line you memorized.
1. The rear light (including brake and fog guard lights) doesn't work. Regardless in which position the lighting switch is, the top two bulbs on both sides won't turn on. I checked the bulbs on both sides, they seemed to be ok. I brushed up all fuse box contacts and changed the #11 fuse, but didn't help.
2. The main beam headlamps (inner round lamps on the front) on both sides don't work. I pulled the turn-signal lever towards me with lighting switch on main beam but nothing changed. The outer round lamps work.
For 1. and 2., the turning lights on the front and rear, reverse lights are working. When I turn the lighting switch, on every position except "O" the bulb failure indicator keeps illuminating.
Brake lights:
Bypass the brake light switch with a jumper wire and see if the brake lights come to life. And/or check for voltage coming in-and-out of the switch using a test light or meter. If the switch is Ok then go to the bulb failure unit in the boot. Remove all the green/purple wires and jumper them together. If the brake lights now work, the bulb failure unit is faulty. Note: make sure to return the wires to their original location!
In the diagrams, yes "H" and "L" = high beam and low beam
When you pull the stalk for main beam/high beam, do you hear the headlight relay click? If not, post back
The bulbs "seem" OK? That's not good enough. Verify the bulbs are good before you go thru a bunch of work. Also check/clean the bulb sockets
The diagrams you are looking at are for USA market cars. thus no fog lamps and other minor differences
Normal for the bulb failure light to glow when one or some of the exterior lights are not working
5. The handbrake doesn't work? Since the car was delivered to me, the guy who drove the car into my parking space didn't notice that the handbrake was pulled the entire time. Starting and parking wasn't also a problem. Is it common that the handbrake is weak after all the time or doesn't affect driving?
Common, yes. Usually the parking brake calipers have seized due to lack of use. Sometime the parking brake pads fall out.
Do a good brake inspection and go from there. Might need new brakes, might not
In watching your video the noise sounds more like a loose power steering belt to my ears
In your pictures I'm not sure what the cut wire is.
The purple/black wire is for the horn. If you at the side of the steering column you should see two brass connectors the protrude into the column. The wire should go to one of those connectors. My guess is that somebody pulled the wire because the horn was stuck!
Thanks for reading and sorry for my broken english
Your English is fine
However, so many different questions in one posting makes answering a bit difficult
Sorry for the late reply, I'm really grateful for your help Jose and Doug!! Thank you very very much.
For 1:
I didn't know of the 3 hidden fuses behind the boot panel, 2 of them were actually blown when I opened up. I changed all of them and since then the rear light works again The brake light and rear fog light still doesn't work, I'm going to test the brake switch, failure unit and wires in the next days. (My tester is broken right now)
For 2:
I knew about the 5-fuse fusebox and brushed up its contacts and changed the fuses but didn't help at all. I think I have to test the bulbs and wires when I get a new tester. Is the click-sound of the headlight relay that big you can hear it from the driver's seat (doors open)? I never noticed any click sound, I think I need someone to hear it near the engine bay when I start the car and pull the stalk for main beam, if it can only be heard near the relay.
For 3:
I got the steering wheel back to its right position and the horn to its right connector at the steering column! Thanks for the information about the brass connector on the steering column, I tested the horn on the brass surfaces when the car is on, and pushed the steering wheel several times. I got it to the right place
I still don't know what the Red/Brown Wire from the fuse box is, and the cut wire above the choke, any additional information would be greatly appreciated!
the Fog lights work only on the fog lamp position of the Headlights Switch.
are you sure you are moving the switch to the correct position?
( you need to press the switch and turn it clockwise at the same time to enter the Fog Lights position.
the fog lights position at the headlights switch is the last one at the top.
Jose,
I was reading through your responses to the owner asking for help.
I just wanted to remark that you have provided me with great knowledge in the past, and I have the utmost respect for you, Doug, and the other senior team members that respond to beginners or other members who are experiencing car issues. This is both a Shout out and a Big Thank you for your help
Jim Jam
Jim Jam
Thank you! I am glad to help when I've been through the "been there done that" servicing of these cars which in my opinion, are easy to fix and fun to fix.
To clarify, are you talking about the low coolant sensor in the coolant reservoir?
If you've replaced that but the low coolant light is still on I'd be suspicious of the sensor wire shorting to ground somewhere or a problem with the low coolant light control module....which is located behind/below the glovebox (LHD car). They very seldom fail but perhaps the connection is dirty or some such. I'll try to find a picture so you know what to look for
and the temp on dash shows max heat yet its not, any ideas?
When you turn the key 'on' does the coolant temp gauge immediately jump over to the maximum reading? If so, the wire from the sending unit is probably grounded somewhere along the line.
08-29-2020, 04:57 PM
Problems on my XJ6 Series 3
The brake light and rear fog light still doesn't work, I'm going to test the brake switch, failure unit and wires in the next days. (My tester is broken right now)
