Okay, I'm picking up a 'cherry picker' tomorrow to get the head out of my 84 XJ6 tomorrow.

The head has so lift hardware, so I'm going to have to improvise.

I was thinking a rope through the sprocket openings in front, but I'm not sure where I could safely attach in the back to lift it straight.

Any advice?

Thanks!

 

Well, I knew it just couldn't be easy. I rented a hoist today and was pulling the head. All was going remarkably well until the back end broke free and cleared the top of the studs. The front is now bound up and is not wanting to come free.

How do I proceed?

Thanks!

 

Never mind! I put a 2x4 on the back of the head and hit it a couple times with a 3pm sledge, and got a lesson in the conversion of potential to kinetic energy. ;-)

 

Slacken and adjust the bias of your lifting rig towards the front? More 3 pound sledge and 2x4 as encouragement.

 

Oh, it's out now and getting checked by the machine shop, after jumping up in the air and doing a flip. I picked up my gasket set and was surprised to find out that it only uses valve seals on the intake side.

Here's hoping it passes its pressure check!

 

So that's why there's a leaper on the hood ... it's a warning.

 

I NEVER pull the head with the studs in place!!!!!!!!!!! I have a 7/16" 3 roller cam type stud remover to pull all the studs from the block and any that are stuck in the head are removed by placing the head between 2 benches and pounded out with a drift.

I clean the hole corrosion with a drill bit and 'dingle-berry' type hone and then coat the new or rethreaded studs with anti-seize compound before reassembly.

I also have a 7/16" tap on a long 1/4" extension to clean the lower threads for the studs so they will go in without stripping or binding.

You need to check the studs near the starter for deterioration as they tend to get thin and snap off near the lower threaded area.

If they do snap off, they can be removed by taking out the casting plug and welding a 7/16" AF (1/4"X20 or 28) nut on the broken part.

You can use a socket on the nut from the top through the stud hole in the block!!

The only head that is harder is the 5.3 V12 with 3 rows of studs.

bob gauff

 

I use a seat belt threaded though the cams between 3 and 4 to lift the heads.

bob gauff

 

Lol. I realized I posted that last one in the wrong thread. I did a rope through the sprocket opening, and then looped under the oil ports in the back. I took the cams out already to avoid any valve damage.

 

I currently pulling the head off my S1 XJ6 and one of the 14 Dome Nuts has stayed with the Stud causing the Stud to come up with it. To this end can you please answer a couple of questions.

1. Should I be able to remove the Stud with the head in place? (reading the above, I'm assuming yes)

2. If the stud won't come up, can I pull the head with the loose stud in place, but not threaded?

Woz

 

1) Yes
2) I don't see why not.

I know you didn't ask this but, FWIW, I don't pull the head off. I *push* it off using bottle jacks.

Cheers
DD

 

Thanks for the prompt reply Doug and the tip. Makes sense to me.

Woz

 

I just went through all of that - including getting the head stuck on the studs.

I was hauling on it so hard I broke an engine mount.

 

I did exactly the same...

 

What's the reason for taking the head off ?

I would certainly suggest replacing all the head studs if this is the first time the engine has been disturbed. It is, of course, much easier if the engine is out of the car and on an engine stand.

Even better, you can now get ones in "semi-stainless" steel from David Manners, and at a good price too. I expect the stainless quality has to be compromised a bit to get the high-tensile quality.

http://davidmannersgroup.wordpress.c...uar-car-parts/

 

Fraser, the head is coming off because the head gasket has gone. Probably induced by overheating some time ago.

The head is now off, but the problem stud has snapped off near the bottom between cylinders 5 and 6 on the exhaust side. I going to assume that there will be no way to replace this without the engine coming out?

 

With these 4.2 engines with very little metal between the bores, it ain't necessary for overheating to cause HGF, they just blow out of old age and cussedness !

If one stud has snapped-off below the block deck then it is really time to replace them all, and also flush out the water jacket. If previous owners haven't kept the coolant antifreeze up-to-date, they are likely all bad.

Only way to get out a snapped stud is to remove the core plugs at the side of the block. There is one by each stud, although I think the rears are short, not long, however my memory fades; sorry !! BTW, I last rebuilt an XK 4.2 in 1992 from a bare block mounted on an engine stand. This facility made the job pleasurable. I would hate to have to do the job with the engine in the car.

A lot depends on what you are going to do with the car. Many USA XJs get lumped when the owner finds things out about the engine. I assume yours has the slotted block. Check very carefully between the bores where the gasket has failed. If t here is any surface defect it could mean the new head gasket won't last long.

What miles on the car ? About 80k miles is about the max before HGF on these slotted blocks. Here in England, assuming the rest of the car is in really good condition, most people would do an engine overhaul. At this point you can fit a modern rear main oil seal and stop the oil staining yor driveway.

 

I think an overhaul is on the cards! If pulling and the studs, is it a good idea to pull all the core plugs and spray liberal amounts of WD40 to ensure they have the best chance of coming out first time?

Also, does anyone sell a bottom end overhaul kit or is this not likely due to things being different dimensions etc?

I think I need to get an engine stand.

 

Hi
I would think all the parts you need for an overhaul are available, but no "kits" are usually sold for the bottom end as if you regrind the bearings, you need the specific undersize bearing shells, and same for pistons with a re-bore, and a kit cannot predict what sizes you need.

I found on my engine that all the head studs came out easy, but then mine were all in one piece and not snapped off. Note that not all of the suds are long, there are about 3 maybe 4 short ones, including a dowel stud to locate the head.

You have to accept that with one stud already snapped, you do need a full set of new long studs and use a stud extractor to get them out in a fairly brutal way. (you might find the short studs are OK). The long studs are of two lengths as there are engine lift brackets attached to them in two places.

Accept also that all core plugs must come out too. Flush the coolant jacket out before you remove the studs to stop the tapped holes filling with crud. A piece of wire is usefully poked around to loosen the crud, and you will be shocked how much there is especially at the rear of the engine.

There is a core plate at the back of the block that should also be removed and the crud cleared out. This has a gasket and is held on with seven screws. I found inserting new core plugs was fairly easy as they are of the cup type not the "welsh washer" type I had on my Mark 2. You do need space to get a swing at them with a lump hammer to flatten the dish and spread them out and seal. Always use a bit of sealant to help them seal.

I did a belt & braces job and had a tool made up with a piece of rod on the end of which was welded, (actually bronze-welded), a plug-tap to clear the tapped holes. You put a bit of grease on the tap, and any crud sticks to it and is thus removed. On the bottom of the stud you'll see a small protrusion beyond the threaded portion. This is to tell you the stud has bottomed in its hole correctly. They must go in all the way to make sure the threaded portion at the top allows the domed head nuts to be screwed down without bottoming out before they have clamped the head down. This must be checked for every stud when the head is put back on.

 

Hi Fraser, Thanks for the reply. I know that this engine needs a well overdue overhaul and that's what will happen when time is available. I'm moving house in a few weeks and can't afford to have an engine spread all over the garage.

I might take the opportunity to fit an AJ6 (after the move) as it's something I have wanted to do for a while and an AJ6 and ZF have become available at reasonable money. I know this will potentially reduce the value of the car, but it will make it so much nicer to drive and better on fuel too.

Either way, I would still rebuild the XK for my own satisfaction. I would then have the option to keep it or sell it on.

Thanks for all the advice so far.

Woz